Asking for inputs for what I am about to do with my 2003 R53 with ~135K miles until it blows. My target is 250-350 HP. LOL.
Stage 4 clutch conversion
Adjustable coilovers
Seals and etc...
Check/replace timing chain
R56 front brakes conversion
M45 to M62 (stay with stock or undersized pulley?) ; electric water pump.
3/4 Cams
Short shifter
550cc's Bosch injectors, Iridium colder spark plugs, NGK wires, MSD ignition coils
JCW 18" wheels with drilled & slotted rotors, and ceramic brakes
Wrapped aftermarket headers and exhaust - self port and polish
ECU tuning

Thanks,
Kevin

 

you wont make 250 without a big valve head & header

 

This post and thread will give you some ideas of what your looking at as far as mods -vs- power.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4500764

 

Exhaust headers checked. Big valves head, forged and aftermarket internals are on the list for after my Mini goes out with a bang. I'd like to see how far I can go without replacing the crank/piston/valves/springs/etc.... internals. Much of my current mods (still in the box) are reusable. From what I've been researching, the max HP you can get from a supercharged R53 is around 230-280.

 

I've heard abit about this m62 being thrown around , so has someone found a way to swap them on our engines? I conveniently already have a spare electric water pump.
can you pm me any info you have on this ?
One of my mini I went with a sprintex and put on a 60mm pulley and 2% crank for 21lb of boost but I wonder if the m62 could putboost it.. I have another lesser modded mini with a 20% sc pulley on the stock sc and it peaked at 16lb only ,I know I could put on upto a 3% crank fir abit more boost but it won't be enough for me and a sprintex kit is stupid expensive so I'm looking for a more cost effective way to make boost. Unfortunately turbo isn't an option for me.

 

those numbers require a BVH

 

A few people tried them, I think some got them to work, but with a lot of FAB and stand alone ECU.
For the most part, using one didn't come to fruition because the TVS "kit" became available, no custom FAB.

 

Oh, as for the title of the post....
There have been more than a few 240ish WHP BVH cars that have gone 200k+ with proper maintenance, so going out "with a bang" may take a while unless it's deliberate.

 

You don't need to standalone ECU unless you are going over 21 PSI. And even then you can get around it with Adrian's tuning. Yes it's a lot of fab I have one in my garage on a spare engine but I haven't got around to finishing it

 

Sorry, should have clarified, the standalone issue was the general consensus when the swap idea first came about a few years back, just one of the reasons they weren't generally considered a basic DIY option.

 

idk if I'm 240whp but I gotta be dang close and my cars at 217k and going STRONG !

 

but what about now ? The sc's have only dropped in price, people like adriancl and their tuning wizardry and all the other supporting mods.. IF that sc can be bolted up and spun with no belt issues imo that's the biggest cost.
you can get all the supporting mods and tuning now so cheap...
if you really really want, there's some dirt cheap mods for these engines now...lol you can get 550cc injectors for under 60$ now even.

 

Exactly, my cylinder walls looked great at 213k, when I thought I'd need to rebuild.
the only thing wrong with my short block was snapped oil squirters from many visits to my higher rev limit.
Honestly, I feel like my short block could have gone 300k no problem.

Without a kit, there's actually a lot to a swap like that, not counting tuning.

Fitment and alignment of the S/C itself, electric W/P fitment, placement and piping (hoses), new intake piping with Bypass Valve and Throttle Body placement consideration, vacuum connections.
All the while making everything fit between the engine and the radiator fan.

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Have you considered tracking it? Track cars tend to either work... or go out with a bang.

Seems like it fits both of your desired outcomes.