Ok, so I’m trying to get up the nerve to replace my crank pulley. I started to do it the other day, but the pulley is pretty rusty and I had trouble threading in the bolts that attach to the puller, it uses M6 bolts, and I have the WMW puller. So I chickened out and figured I’d pay a shop to do it, but I’m struggling to find someone to do it.

so I have heli coils for that size of bolt. I’m wondering what people think about the wisdom of drilling the holes out and inserting heli coils, then using the puller to pull the pulley off.

Any thoughts? My other idea was to drill and tap the holes to M8 to match the other bolts that come with the WMW puller, and use those, but I don’t have an M8 drill or tap.

 

I had trouble with those threads as well. I put a little penetrating oil on them and let it work for a while. After that, the bolts went it without any problems and the threads held well enough to remove the pulley. Worth a shot before you try more drastic measures.

 

Is there a reason that you can't simply use an m6 tap and some oil to clean the existing threads? ( bottoming tap would be best, but probably not Ness.)

Most decent hardware stores (ACE) will have an m6 tap, if not it would be a quick purchase on Amazon.

 

I’m just worried that the threads will be too thin and pull out when I crank on the puller. Though I guess if that happens, I can put helicoils in and be no worse off. I just do t have an M6 tap on hand.

 

If your not saving the pulley just use a two jaw puller. You'll have to use it twice once for the outer ring and once for the inner hub. The outer ring will likely pull off the rubber thus the need to do it twice

 

If you don't have a tap, but maybe a spare M6 bolt you can make a poor mans tap by cutting a groove the length of the bolt. Just screw it in while using some light oil to clean the threads and Bob's your uncle.

 

Well after much trepidation and no return call from the local mini shop, I decided to sack up and go for it. I squirted some WD-40 on the bolts and in the crank pulley and pulled the pulley off. No drama at all. The scary parts of the job were:

1. removing the crank pulley bolt, it took more hits from my electric impact than I thought it would before it broke loose.

2. Pulling the ati pulley back on, it took more torque to get it moving on, and keep it moving.

3. The first start, just making sure the belt alignment was right.

overall not as bad as I thought it would be, and now I can enjoy the benefits of the ati damper.

The old pulley didn’t look terrible. I originally thought it was the original pulley for the car, but judging by the blue lock tite on the crank bolt, I think it had been replaced at some point. The previous owner of this car also replaced the lower control arm bushings with oem rubber bushings rather than polyurethane bushings so they made some interesting choices.

 

Glad yours went better than mine. I don’t feel so bad because the German car repair place is having a hell of a time getting my old one off too. The new one is supposed to be in on Thursday so hopefully I’ll have her back by the weekend.

 

Thanks! I honestly was surprised that it went so well, and my original pulley honestly looks ok, which made it harder to justify pulling off a perfectly functioning pulley, but this way I shouldn’t ever have problems with the crank pulley.

 

That is one good looking pulley/damper!
How much lighter is it compared the one you removed (OEM)?
I bought/have a PRW fluid filled damper waiting for the inevitable future fail of my OEM. (3rd OEM replaced so far by the dealer in 17yrs.)
The PRW feels like it weighs a whopping 7lbs! (?)
Thinking about holding off for something a little lighter but still reliable.

 

I honestly didn’t weigh it, but I believe the stock pulley is 6 pounds and the ati is about 5.5lbs, so not a huge weight savings, but it’s rotational weight, so every little bit helps. I’ve only driven 20-30 miles since replacing the pulley but so far I’m very impressed with it, I have noticeably less dash rattle with the pulley, which is very nice. I have a wmw poly upper engine mount and it noticeably increases cabin vibration, the crank pulley makes it almost back to stock levels of vibration.

 

Welcome

2.72kg


2.68kg

 

Ummm...I'm sorry...
The posters distracted me.
What is it that we were discussing again?