No.8 on the attached. Lot of stuff in the way.

 

Thanks, looks to me like that is to be done when the SC gets serviced...

 

Jep, that is the best/easiest time. Also replaced the o ring when I serviced the sc.

 

Perfect time to replace the crank sensor. Also, unless you have proof that the water pump has been recently replaced, go ahead and replace it while the S/C is off (they're attached). Pumps are cheap and this is the perfect time to also do that bit of labor while the car is in FESM. Good luck!

 

So the o-ring is not part of the sensor?


WHADAYA mean good luck????? lol

 

Tearing into this today/tomorrow. Fuel rail gets wrapped and will investigate isolating the intake from the blowby from the CAC.. I assume that has been done, just have not researched it yet.

 

Do yo thing Steve!

 

What's with wrapping the fuel rail? Heat prevention?

 

Lowering fuel temps

 

Gonna just say there is a propagation delay in when I think I am gonna work on the MINI and when I ACTUALLY get to working on the MINI lol...

Fuel rail wrapped. Used exhast wrap, does not completely cover the the bottom side of the rail. Tape was not going to work well to get it installed the way it is packed in there, that will have to wait until I swap injectors. But, I did test the exhaust wrap as a barrier using a heat gun and works well for what I want it to do which is to keep the hot air off the rail. Any heat soak will come from the uncovered area on the bottom side of the rail. Not ideal, but will work for now. Onto ripping out the BPV...

 

All of the hot air blown out of the CAC blows right down onto the fuel rail and intake manifold, my goal is to keep the fuel temps from rising at all from the heat soak that gets on the fuel rail from all that hot air. Ideally the whole rail is wrapped in thermal barrier tape. On every car engine I've cooled the fuel on it gets me more bottom end torque. The only app that did not benifit was a 5500# truck, too heavy to even feel anything on that one. Plus it was an auto trans. I did get a 5% gain in mpg out of it though. The fuel rail wrap is part of the solution, fuel temps as they get injected will have only a minimal rise in temps.

Actually it prevents a rise in fuel temps at the injectors. If the car is out in the sun all day and the fuel in the tank gets to say 100*, it will stay close to that temp at the rail... the only rise being the temp generated pressurizing it from the pump. What I still need to look at is if the feed line near the exhaust is metal or rubber. If there is any metal in there in the engine compartment I'll wrap it as well.


Edit: Forgot to add... no proof but I think the stable fuel temps allows advance on the timing that does not get pulled back from the knock sensor signals.

 

At the fun spot in the swap trying to get the horn off the hose. The hose is broken free, the horn studs prevent the movement to separate the hose from the BPV, there is no way this is coming off w/o breaking something. Why are there not 2 bolts on the front side of the horn with just the one stud in the back??? If there were 2 bolts up there then the horn could pivot on the remaining stud on the back side. What also does not help is the hose is pretty rigid if not rock hard. Like I said, it is broken free from the BPV but pulling the horn off those studs is going to be a problem. There is not enough "service loop" to pull the horn off the hose.

Suggestions?

gonna stop for now until I get input... onto tuning the SIL's ram... OH BOY! Tunning!!!!

 

Hacked it off, replacement hose coming from a Gates 22917 lower radiator hose off a chevy colorado/canyon 2004-2012 3.5L engine. I paid $30 for it and 2 clamps to have it in hand now to wrap this up. It can be ordered on Rockauto.com for $14+ shipping. More than enough for 3~4 connector hoses. I am sure there are other alternatives available, this was in the store.

Should have the MINI back together shortly... unless of course I see a squirrel... which is entirely possible where I live...