I've had my MINI for about a month now. So I don't know if it was doing this prior to my purchase or if it's related to anything recently replaced on it.

Car: 05 MCS JCW 6 Speed Manual
Mileage: 92k
Symptoms: WOT over 5K RPM all the gauges will stop working and the engine will slightly miss and be down on power, power steering will lose assist this seems to last for maybe 30 seconds and everything will work fine again and full power will be there. It kinda acts like a power surge or loss of power/ground rebooted everything briefly.
Recent services: Oil change, OEM Plugs, OEM Wires, OEM coil pack, belt, tensioner shock, intake silicone hose, DT BPV, Autozone alternator, IC boots cleaned and checked over for wear, IC flushed
Mods: 15% and 2% pulleys, DT BPV, Silicone intake pipe, Valeo single mass flywheel and clutch
History: In the last month I've had the lean code on the highway twice, 1497 (I think, it's the one that the reader says is EGR on several cars) code several times but this hasn't came back in the last week since I did all the services

 

I am guessing there is a grounding problem. The instrument panel may need the ground wire clean and reinstalled. Also on the passengers side front inner fender area, there is a bolt with a bunch of brown wires attached, remove the 10mm bolt, clean the body panel and the lug, so you have a good contact.

The codes usually indicate an intake air leak, or a faulty map sensor.

 

+1 the ground strap near the motor mount. Check it out.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...e-trouble.html

 

Just checked it. It's in good condition and connections look solid. Car came from NM so no corrosion or rust anywhere. I can try adding more grounds to the engine/trans to see if that helps.

 

While you are checking, also check you battery terminals, and all the grounding points. And if you have access to a Battery Load Tester, do a quick test of your battery.

... for the 1497 code (Downstream Throttle Air Leak) check all your seals, AND most important there is a vacuum line under the intake manifold that always gets me and throws the CES light. I have mentioned it and posted a photo and arrow where to look here in the forums somewhere.

Best of luck.

Motor On!

 

I'm hoping the 1497 has gone since I did all the work. It hasn't popped up in several days. The other issue though I've ordered some wire I'll redo and add some grounds, never hurts to have extra grounds anyway. Testing the battery isn't a bad idea I think my charger is a smart charger that should detect anything wrong with it.

 

I cleaned up the OEM groun wire on the front of the engine, added a ground from the block to the same ground point, added a ground from the back of the head and the transmission to the ground point on the transmission side of the car. I've tried to recreate the problem and it seems better/different. It doesn't seem to miss now but seems to run out of power, the tach seems to slow down about 5700 RPM and the power steering still goes out. My next thought is to hook up my phone and log what's going on. Maybe there's a voltage drop/spike somewhere in there.

 

it's probably the alternator I just went through this with mine. Log the voltage if it goes over 16.5 or so at high rpm the power steering will cut out, the radio will cut off and the tach will freeze.

I tried 2 different brands of rebuilt alternators, both did it. I had to find a used denzo at a junkyard

 

here's my thread on the subject, with a data log

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-6000-rpm.html

 

It's the alternator. Just did some logging and it's 14.1 at the data port from 2k to 4.5k then it jumps up to 14.8 then after 5200 or so it jumps and goes over 17v about 5500.

So duralast is apparently junk. Other than a Denso any other reputable brands? I hate to spend the money on a used one not knowing how long that thing is going to last. Most of them on Ebay look pretty nasty.

I see some places offer a reman Denso, bosch, valeo. The Valeo one is listed as 120 amps, which if it actually fits would be a nice upgrade.

 

glad you were able to verify the problem, I went to a local junkyard and found another denzo, I would like to rebuild the one I have but I"m not sure if anyone sells genuine parts for them

 

I always use Interstate premium batteries in Mini Coopers, with great success! They ain't cheap, but they use vigin lead and they run stable!

 

That's my fear of the reman'd but it states on there that it's OE parts. Worse case I sent it back. I'd hate to buy an old used one just to steal the regulator off of it.

 

Update on this. I went with a Remanufactured ND from Amazon and it works good. Car's actually quite a bit livelier at higher RPM's even before the cut off point it had. Autozone took the old one back even though it bench tested fine.

 

Reman denzo?

 

Yes. This

 

So there are many new parts for our Gen 1 Mini's are plain crap ? New communist made alternators that buyers beware. New communist made axles with grease boots that are only suitable for driving under US interstate speed limits. I bet my fried egg roll wrappers withstand spinning at these speeds better.

 

I hate to say it but I'm learning in today's "Chinan" made crap OE is the way to go. Even buying stuff for my 96 Chevy truck I'm seeing a huge difference between AC Delco and other cheap brands. BTW the Chinan is a joke as I bought fireworks a few years ago that said "Made In Chinan" quality control couldn't even get their own country right, well in english.

 

Here is the proof. My egg roll wrappers do not fling grease like the communist made axles.

 

That's horrible

 

How dare you? My egg rolls or the crap axle?

 

I'm down with some egg rolls. That makes me hungry. Any chance there's a sticky some where with good known brands? I'm familiar with several for my BMW but wasn't sure on the Mini. 1st Gen seems to be quite the mixing pot of manufacturers.