what could be causing it to run this rough. I have another post in the general mini if you need more info

 

See more info about the vehicle; engine, transmission, when did it start, does it drive, anything that precipitated it?

 

I just replaced the clutch and flywheel with a Valeo kit. I did all the work myself but followed the video from mod mini to the T.
The car has also not been started in about 3 months.
the video is from startup and a brief run time, the engine revs very high during start up (I did not press the gas) and idles very rough and low rpm. 500 or so and bounces around. I have not driven it, only started it very briefly.

The codes I can pull are.
P1109- manifold air pressure too high in deceleration
P1242- secondary upstream manifold air pressure sensor to high in deceleration
P1689 electronic throttle control monitor level 2/3 torque calculation error
p0445 evaporative system leak detected (gross leak/ no flow.

My quick web search makes me believe that it might’ve an O2 sensor or MAF. But I’m not sure, any help would be greatly appreciated

 

Check your MAP sensors. Make sure they are plugged in. Pull them out and clean them.

 

I pulled them out and they both looked pretty clean. I also inspected my vacuum connections and everything was good.
I did have 2 holes in my radiator where the a/c condenser connects to the radiator. About 2-3 mm across each. But I think the effects are a bit extreme for a small leak

 

I have had P1698 and it’s typically caused by the crank pulley quitting. I replaced that and still got it and it turned out to be the TMAP sensor losing connection. It was crumbling and the connector would just drop out of it when I hit a stiff bump. I fixed that and now get P1238 and P1242. Extensive searching point to these possible causes you can investigate:

• bad TMAP (strange coincidence, I guess, it could happen). You wouldn’t be able to tell by looking at it.
• bad connection between TMAP and ECU. Possible crushed or chafed wires could cause intermittent signal wackinesss. If you have a Scangauge or ELM327 reader or a cable that can support ISTA you should be able to read the MAP pressure in real time and see if it ever goes nuts (0.0 counts as nuts, which I saw when the cable disconnected, though I haven’t seen anything out of range after I fixed the connector)
• vacuum leak. I did a smoke test and didn’t see anything, an am still hunting. Search P1242 within NAM and you’ll see suggestions for a plastic part that has two vacuum connectors coming into it that are ringed in red. Those are two vacuum lines (and hard to see from topside, btw. Others have reported those connectors looking ok visually until they disconnected the line and discovering that the internal nipple had broken.

Have not seen P1109 or P0445. That last one in particular seems to point to vacuum leak. As does the correspondence with fixing your clutch, since that requires a lot of disconnecting and jostling. It’s possible you disconnected something or snapped something unintentionally that’s leaking vacuum. A smoke test should help with finding that.

 

It really sounds like vacuum leak to me, which I have recent experience with. Just a small leak caused me a ton of issues and pain. I would smoke test it and make sure you don't have a leak somewhere.

If you don't have access to a smoke machine you can make one your self out of a paint can about $35 total or buy one of the those on ebay for less then $100. Youtube has some DIY videos that are good. I built one and I can honestly say that it helped a lot and let me pin point my leaks in just a few minutes.

Seeing as how it was working fine before, I would be hesitant to just throw parts at it.