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This website is super handy for tire/wheel fitment. Hopefully I'm not breaking any rules posting it as I know there are some guidelines to links on this site. I don't THINK I'm breaking them but I'm sure I'll hear about it if I am.
It came down to bleeding the system. I started to bleed the brakes last weekend. I quickly hooked it up and did a pressure test. It wouldn't hold pressure, so I did it right. I put the Teflon tape on the brass feelings and torqued it with wrenches instead of fingers. I connected it again and ran another pressure test at 10psi. This time the pressure was stable. Just about the time I started giving myself the lecture about doing it right the first time.... POP! Somewhere out the back of the reservoir. Fluid started leaking everywhere. This is what the result of confidence exceeding ability looks like.
So, today, I am paying someone to repair what I fixed. I'm ready to have it back on the road and track again.
It came down to bleeding the system. I started to bleed the brakes last weekend. I quickly hooked it up and did a pressure test. It wouldn't hold pressure, so I did it right. I put the Teflon tape on the brass feelings and torqued it with wrenches instead of fingers. I connected it again and ran another pressure test at 10psi. This time the pressure was stable. Just about the time I started giving myself the lecture about doing it right the first time.... POP! Somewhere out the back of the reservoir. Fluid started leaking everywhere. This is what the result of confidence exceeding ability looks like.
So, today, I am paying someone to repair what I fixed. I'm ready to have it back on the road and track again.
A few years ago I had a similar experience while pressure bleeding my R53. The brake fluid reservoir split at the back and blew fluid everywhere. After I got over the initial panic, I saw that it was just the reservior. It was pretty easy to replace.
I've been there too. I had a leaking fuel injector and had to have it towed even though I thought I could fix it, but it was cold and I didn't want to risk breaking 20 year old plastic parts in a sub zero parking garage.
I bet you'll be back having fun in no time. loading on the flatbed of defeat.
I've been living with the MillTek exhaust for about a week now and I thought I would share my review.
This wasn't my first choice for an exhaust. I generally throw away any performance claims on exhaust systems on the internet. I figure most are either BS or give or take the same as any other after market exhaust. So, based on sound clips from the internet, my preference was the iNvidia exhaust. When I talked with Way in Atlanta, he convinced me otherwise. Based on his real world experience he said the MillTek was good for 18 ft/lbs. In Mini Cooper land... that's a lot. Since he was selling both, and actively trying to convince me to buy the cheaper option, I trusted him (plus he has a good reputation in the Mini community, owning Way Motor Works).
The build quality was really good. All the welds looked great. All the parts and pieces looked like they were meant to be seen rather than stuffed under the car. All the pieces fit well, and most importantly the tips on the exhaust are in the middle and straight.
The sound is good. It's not a V8, so you have to take that into consideration. Inside the car it's a nice deep rumble. It's an interesting juxtaposition. When you are on it hard your ears are confronted with the high pitched super charger whine from the front on the car and a deep rumble from the exhaust at the rear of the car. There are no shortages on audio feedback from this car. Outside the car the exhaust has more rasp than you can hear from inside the car. It's not at all a rice or coffee can but you can tell it isn't a V8. Sound is clearly a personal preference thing, I really like how it sounds now. It actually sounds like a car that has something to it rather than an eco-box. Cruising is almost as quiet as before, no drone.
As far as performance, I haven't run before/after tests on a Dyno so I'll just give you the results of my butt dyno. It certainly does feel like it has more low end grunt in 1st and 2nd gear. My driveway is fairly steep, so the first thing I do in the car is basically a hill start. It pulls up the driveway easier and with less pedal than either of the two family cars. Around town I shift... 1st, 2nd, then 4th. It pulls hard enough in 2nd that there really isn't a need for 3rd gear, just drop in 4th and cruise.
So, very happy with the exhaust. I haven't found anything to complain about with it.
Things are back on an upswing for the Mini. I got a shipment from my friends at Tirerack. So I headed off to the local tire place for mounting and balancing. I have to say, that's quite a sexy backend...
OOOO, hoosiers, A7s? I have some R7's that I run for track days and they are amazing! I can't stand to drive track with street tires now. get ready for a whole new level of grip. I hope you have an upgraded seat/belts because you're gonna need them to stay put. I run OEM seats and schroth quick fit 4 point belts and they are pretty good. I also found that I had to go with higher temp brake pads because the additional grip allowed me to be harder on the brakes.
They are R7s. I'll use it for AutoX and track days. Seats and belts are on the list, just towards the bottom. Actually, I have an unused 5-point belt already in the garage, just need the seat that will work with it.
For the brakes, I just upgraded to R56 calipers, Stoptech slotted rotors and EBC Red stuff pads, all topped with stainless lines. It better damned stop after the headaches it caused me.
The adventure continues...
Driving home from picking up dinner tonight, I turned into my block and heard a click, metal on metal grind, and pop like a spring being unloaded. All those sounds connected and coming from the front left wheel well. I tested the brakes a few times to ensure they still worked.
I did a quick look around when I got home, but as I was bringing dinner I didn't have time to pull the wheel off or look under it. I'm hoping it's something minor and just dragging on the wheel or rotor. Thankfully it did it a block from home.
For the brakes, I just upgraded to R56 calipers, Stoptech slotted rotors and EBC Red stuff pads, all topped with stainless lines. It better damned stop after the headaches it caused me.
That brake setup should be fine for autocross, R56 calipers may be enough depending on the track. I was using my stock R53 calipers with EBC yellow pads, motul 600, and brake ducts, and still having brake fade issues at my local track. Switched to the R56 calipers and hawk DTC-60 pads with the same fluid and ductsw and had no fade.
I finally had time to dig in to find the source of the squeal, grind and pinging sound...
A rock managed to find it's way into the brake shielding. I'm guessing the ping was when it would get caught on a slot in the rotor.
Thankfully an easy fix.
What a difference Hoosiers make. The car has tons of grip. I'm still getting used to it. I didn't trust the tires because I just didnt' know the limits. Half an autocross isn't enough time to get a good understanding.
I say half, but I wasn't able to run the second half. I thought I broke an axle, or CV joint, or something else in that area. At lunch break I drove up to the front of Barbers, and started to notice a weird thumping. Almost as if the tire had a flat spot. It kept getting worse. I stopped and looked at it. A couple fellow drivers came and assisted. Nothing obvious, nothing at super slow speed, but at about 10mph and up it comes back. It got worse when your turned. I limped up to the front gate for my worker assignment and even the security guy could tell there was a problem. I stewed on it while I worked the session. My biggest concern is the 2-day track event coming up next month and getting whatever fixed.
I was finally relieved from my duties, but obviously wasn't going to take my runs. Pissed I limped back to the paddock area. It sounded awful. I figured I would change back to the street tires, and drive it back to the front for the wrecker to come and get it. I changed the passenger side first. When I got to the driver's front I was missing a lug bolt and another was halfway backed out. So, not a broken axle, just an idiot who nearly drove his wheels off... literally.
I'm not sure how it came out. I put them on with an impact wrench (and since I bought this impact from the Hammer Store), I manually checked each lug bolt.
One suggestion, I always take my torque wrench to autoX and track days so I can check all the lugnuts between runs. I've never had a problem, but I've seen others lose wheels and it's not pretty.
+2 on the torqueing wheel studs/lugs. I have aluminum lug nuts and a stud conversion on my R50 for street use so I always hand torque the lugs. I ditched the factory wheel stud wrench (it was 17mm anyway and the new lugs are 19mm) and replaced it with a HF click style torque wrench. Its a cheapy that I bought for the sole purpose of leaving in the car at all times. It weighs a little more than the factory wrench but to me its worth it to know my lugs are tightened evenly.
I've ordered a stud conversion kit, that was the first and easiest thing to do. I'll just start checking them after every run or session.
I've been racing since 1999 (yea.. I'm old), I've never had an issue like this, I'm still blown away. Also, I'm fairly impressed at how 4 adults could look at, and listen to a wheel and not one of us bothered to check the wheel and lug bolts.
Torque wrenches for the win. I've had nuts come loose at a track event once - two of the four on a front wheel loosened to become only hand tight after my second session. That could have ended badly if I had headed out for a third session.
Love the setup you've got for the car. I'm actually thinking of going with Hoosiers for my MINI next season on my 15 inch wheels - would be the first time. I was thinking of 205 or 225, but seeing yours sitting on 245 has got me thinking...
I've ordered a stud conversion kit, that was the first and easiest thing to do. I'll just start checking them after every run or session.
I've been racing since 1999 (yea.. I'm old), I've never had an issue like this, I'm still blown away. Also, I'm fairly impressed at how 4 adults could look at, and listen to a wheel and not one of us bothered to check the wheel and lug bolts.
If it makes you feel any better I had the entire left side rearset fall off my CBR at an NHRA track outside of Oswego NY! I learned the value of LockTite and torque wrenches right then and there lol.
The hoosiers really are a whole new level of grip, it's taken me several track days to really start to understand how much grip they have. The back of your car looks like mine when I go to the track. 4 wheels/tires, lawn chair, tupperware tote with tools, and can't forget the drinks. Which stud kit did you get? i'm looking at converting to studs and adding 5mm spacers, but I can't find a stud kit I like that isn't $300. I'd like to be able to run my x-lite wheels with the center caps, so I need the studs to not be super long.
