R50/53 Things to do to 'NEW' engine when swapping '06 MCS engine??
#1
Things to do to 'NEW' engine when swapping '06 MCS engine??
Hoping that some of you can take a few minutes to help me out.
I'm working on a couple of R53 projects....
One of them, Is to replace a tired, but functional engine... and I'm finding some low-ish mile take out engines (with documentation on the mileage).
For this car... I want to do a swap out of the engine... with a good used one.
I'd like to tend to the known issues of the W11-R53 engine before it goes back in.
The engine that I will probably buy is a 2006 MCS W11 with 57,500 miles on it.... It has been taken down to the long block.... no supercharger/alternator etc.
I'm thinking at this "mid mile mark" to freshen it up... but still retain the stock pistons if everything measures out ok for taper and concentricity of bore &pistons.
What are the things to tend to...and what parts are best in terms of quality ... keeping in mind this will NOT be a tracked car.
Things I can think of doing.
Replace timing chain/sprockets and guides. (which brand or OEM?)
New pan gasket (which brand)
New valve cover gasket.
Front and rear Main Seals.
New timing cover seals and Oil-pump in/out seals.
Camshaft and crankshaft sensor seals.
Should I pop in new standard main and rod bearings?
Should I do a quick clean up with ball hone and run new rings on factory pistons?
Should I have new valve stem seals installed?
Run a new crank damper? (Lightweight or ATI or OE?)
What ELSE do I need to pay attention to have the best shot at good reliability and long-life without re-visiting these items too soon?
I will of course be running a new clutch and I'm leaning towards the LUK DMF089 Dual Mass FW and LUK 03050 PP/Disk/TB as I can pick that set up for a great price.
Thank you in advance !
.
I'm working on a couple of R53 projects....
One of them, Is to replace a tired, but functional engine... and I'm finding some low-ish mile take out engines (with documentation on the mileage).
For this car... I want to do a swap out of the engine... with a good used one.
I'd like to tend to the known issues of the W11-R53 engine before it goes back in.
The engine that I will probably buy is a 2006 MCS W11 with 57,500 miles on it.... It has been taken down to the long block.... no supercharger/alternator etc.
I'm thinking at this "mid mile mark" to freshen it up... but still retain the stock pistons if everything measures out ok for taper and concentricity of bore &pistons.
What are the things to tend to...and what parts are best in terms of quality ... keeping in mind this will NOT be a tracked car.
Things I can think of doing.
Replace timing chain/sprockets and guides. (which brand or OEM?)
New pan gasket (which brand)
New valve cover gasket.
Front and rear Main Seals.
New timing cover seals and Oil-pump in/out seals.
Camshaft and crankshaft sensor seals.
Should I pop in new standard main and rod bearings?
Should I do a quick clean up with ball hone and run new rings on factory pistons?
Should I have new valve stem seals installed?
Run a new crank damper? (Lightweight or ATI or OE?)
What ELSE do I need to pay attention to have the best shot at good reliability and long-life without re-visiting these items too soon?
I will of course be running a new clutch and I'm leaning towards the LUK DMF089 Dual Mass FW and LUK 03050 PP/Disk/TB as I can pick that set up for a great price.
Thank you in advance !
.
#2
Unless you suspect that something is wrong with the internals I wouldn’t mess with the crank or pistons. If you do those you are essentially doing a complete rebuild. If you are going to do a rebuild then do it right and send the block and head to the machine shop and have them go through it. Crank also. When you change crank bearings you take the chance that they will not seat properly. You have to match crank bearings with the crank wear and you need to do your research on proper clearances. I say this with the knowledge of having rebuilt V8s from bare block on up. If you have never rebuilt an engine you need to do your homework before you decide to tear down your engine. There is a lot more detail to it than on the face of it. Especially if you want it to last.
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co0p3r (01-12-2019),
mountainhorse (01-07-2019)
#3
Thank you for the fast reply.
I run a boat restoration shop and have been rebuilding engines for the last 40 years from SBC's to exotic V12's .... good experiences... The work is not the issue, nor paying attention to specs... I'm just in uncharted waters with doing my first W11 and hope to benefit from the wealth of experience on the NAM forums !
.
I run a boat restoration shop and have been rebuilding engines for the last 40 years from SBC's to exotic V12's .... good experiences... The work is not the issue, nor paying attention to specs... I'm just in uncharted waters with doing my first W11 and hope to benefit from the wealth of experience on the NAM forums !
.
#4
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mountainhorse (01-07-2019)
#5
Yep... my thoughts exactly.
But.. with the questions above... and the fact that I will NOT be boring the block, nor running new pistons etc... and that it is a relatively low mile block...
What are the things to re seal etc as listed in the first post?
But.. with the questions above... and the fact that I will NOT be boring the block, nor running new pistons etc... and that it is a relatively low mile block...
What are the things to re seal etc as listed in the first post?
Hoping that some of you can take a few minutes to help me out.
I'm working on a couple of R53 projects....
One of them, Is to replace a tired, but functional engine... and I'm finding some low-ish mile take out engines (with documentation on the mileage).
For this car... I want to do a swap out of the engine... with a good used one.
I'd like to tend to the known issues of the W11-R53 engine before it goes back in.
The engine that I will probably buy is a 2006 MCS W11 with 57,500 miles on it.... It has been taken down to the long block.... no supercharger/alternator etc.
I'm thinking at this "mid mile mark" to freshen it up... but still retain the stock pistons if everything measures out ok for taper and concentricity of bore &pistons.
What are the things to tend to...and what parts are best in terms of quality ... keeping in mind this will NOT be a tracked car.
Things I can think of doing.
Replace timing chain/sprockets and guides. (which brand or OEM?)
New pan gasket (which brand)
New valve cover gasket.
Front and rear Main Seals. (whats best, oe or aftermarket)
New timing cover seals and Oil-pump in/out seals.
Camshaft and crankshaft sensor seals.
Should I pop in new standard main and rod bearings?
Should I do a quick clean up with ball hone and run new rings on factory pistons?
Should I have new valve stem seals installed?
Run a new crank damper? (Lightweight or ATI or OE?)
What ELSE do I need to pay attention to have the best shot at good reliability and long-life without re-visiting these items too soon?
I will of course be running a new clutch and I'm leaning towards the LUK DMF089 Dual Mass FW and LUK 03050 PP/Disk/TB as I can pick that set up for a great price.
Thank you in advance !
.
I'm working on a couple of R53 projects....
One of them, Is to replace a tired, but functional engine... and I'm finding some low-ish mile take out engines (with documentation on the mileage).
For this car... I want to do a swap out of the engine... with a good used one.
I'd like to tend to the known issues of the W11-R53 engine before it goes back in.
The engine that I will probably buy is a 2006 MCS W11 with 57,500 miles on it.... It has been taken down to the long block.... no supercharger/alternator etc.
I'm thinking at this "mid mile mark" to freshen it up... but still retain the stock pistons if everything measures out ok for taper and concentricity of bore &pistons.
What are the things to tend to...and what parts are best in terms of quality ... keeping in mind this will NOT be a tracked car.
Things I can think of doing.
Replace timing chain/sprockets and guides. (which brand or OEM?)
New pan gasket (which brand)
New valve cover gasket.
Front and rear Main Seals. (whats best, oe or aftermarket)
New timing cover seals and Oil-pump in/out seals.
Camshaft and crankshaft sensor seals.
Should I pop in new standard main and rod bearings?
Should I do a quick clean up with ball hone and run new rings on factory pistons?
Should I have new valve stem seals installed?
Run a new crank damper? (Lightweight or ATI or OE?)
What ELSE do I need to pay attention to have the best shot at good reliability and long-life without re-visiting these items too soon?
I will of course be running a new clutch and I'm leaning towards the LUK DMF089 Dual Mass FW and LUK 03050 PP/Disk/TB as I can pick that set up for a great price.
Thank you in advance !
.
#6
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mountainhorse (01-07-2019)
#7
Here's a list of gaskets, seals, o-rings that should eventually be replaced on an R53:
- Valve Cover Gasket
- Spark Plug Tube Seals (4)
- Camshaft Position Sensor o-ring
- Crankshaft Position Sensor o-ring
- Timing Cover Gasket
- Timing Cover Crankshaft Seal (a.k.a. front main seal)
- Internal Timing Cover inlet & outlet oil seals
- Rear Main Seal
- Oil Housing Gasket
- Oil Cooler/Exchanger o-rings (2)
- Oil Pan Gasket
- Oil Drain Plug
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mountainhorse (01-07-2019)
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#8
#9
#10
Big help right here.... Didn't even think of the spark tube seals.
Here's a list of gaskets, seals, o-rings that should eventually be replaced on an R53:
Here's a list of gaskets, seals, o-rings that should eventually be replaced on an R53:
- Valve Cover Gasket
- Spark Plug Tube Seals (4)
- Camshaft Position Sensor o-ring
- Crankshaft Position Sensor o-ring
- Timing Cover Gasket
- Timing Cover Crankshaft Seal (a.k.a. front main seal)
- Internal Timing Cover inlet & outlet oil seals
- Rear Main Seal
- Oil Housing Gasket
- Oil Cooler/Exchanger o-rings (2)
- Oil Pan Gasket
- Oil Drain Plug
#11
Vendor
iTrader: (10)
with a 57k mile engine I wouldn't do anything to it unless you see a leak that needs fixed as the engines are good and will go 100k plus easy.
I would do the ATI damper as all stock crank pulleys will fail
https://www.waymotorworks.com/super-...ulley-r53.html
If you do a timing chain kit we only recommend OE as it's too important to be cheap on
https://www.waymotorworks.com/timing...0-r52-r53.html
I would do the ATI damper as all stock crank pulleys will fail
https://www.waymotorworks.com/super-...ulley-r53.html
If you do a timing chain kit we only recommend OE as it's too important to be cheap on
https://www.waymotorworks.com/timing...0-r52-r53.html
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mountainhorse (01-07-2019)
#12
Sounds like OE timing sets are the best?
It wasn't about price, I just want the best quality and most durable in there as this seems to be a sore spot for the W11's.
Are OE parts the best for ALL engine parts for this kind of work/intent on this engine...or are some of the aftermarket offerings superior to OE in some things?
.
It wasn't about price, I just want the best quality and most durable in there as this seems to be a sore spot for the W11's.
Are OE parts the best for ALL engine parts for this kind of work/intent on this engine...or are some of the aftermarket offerings superior to OE in some things?
.
#13
The "new" 57,000 mile engine will be out of the car and infinitely accessible from all angles. In this case, it's foolish, IMO to NOT go through all the oil-relative consumables at that time, as opposed to later, when it's in the car, and the inevitable leaks start.
My 2¢
Mostly yes, but instead of paying extra for the official "MINI Branded" parts, source them from the actual OE suppliers, although in the case of the crankshaft pulley, I'll agree with Way's suggestion of the ATI damper.
Last edited by AoxoMoxoA; 01-08-2019 at 05:49 AM. Reason: Clarification
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mountainhorse (01-08-2019)
#14
#15
Vendor
iTrader: (10)
For the timing chain I for sure use the OE parts as I know the quality will be reliable.
For gaskets we have a kit
https://www.waymotorworks.com/gasket-package.html
but when you do the timing chain you will also need the timing cover seals
https://www.waymotorworks.com/timing...0-r52-r53.html
But if you are going to go as deep as bearings and guides you may want to just consider a brand new engine with everything new as that is the direction you will be heading
https://www.waymotorworks.com/john-c...53-engine.html
For gaskets we have a kit
https://www.waymotorworks.com/gasket-package.html
but when you do the timing chain you will also need the timing cover seals
https://www.waymotorworks.com/timing...0-r52-r53.html
But if you are going to go as deep as bearings and guides you may want to just consider a brand new engine with everything new as that is the direction you will be heading
https://www.waymotorworks.com/john-c...53-engine.html
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mountainhorse (01-09-2019)
#16
Thanks Way seems like reasonable cost on the seal kit for the block components.
What about an overall kit for the engine all together? All seals and gaskets??
No, no guides or main bearings.
UNLESS... the block split line has ANY tendency to leak over the years.
Only possibly thinking of rod bearings if I pop out the pistons to clean and decarbonize them... might make sense.
My goal is to go back into my MCS and address the known issues at this point... Peppah is now 13 years old and I want to keep her for at least that again !!
New water pump, new injectors (for 16% pulley/tune), clean/inspect oil pump & pickup.
Question: Is there anything special about the valve stem seals on this engine in terms of installation?
Different than say, most other valve seals I've replaced?
I consider this as being an area I want to address as well for good measure... I may have a simple valve job done for good measure.
As many have said... the block and pistons are pretty durable...
.
.
What about an overall kit for the engine all together? All seals and gaskets??
No, no guides or main bearings.
UNLESS... the block split line has ANY tendency to leak over the years.
Only possibly thinking of rod bearings if I pop out the pistons to clean and decarbonize them... might make sense.
My goal is to go back into my MCS and address the known issues at this point... Peppah is now 13 years old and I want to keep her for at least that again !!
New water pump, new injectors (for 16% pulley/tune), clean/inspect oil pump & pickup.
Question: Is there anything special about the valve stem seals on this engine in terms of installation?
Different than say, most other valve seals I've replaced?
I consider this as being an area I want to address as well for good measure... I may have a simple valve job done for good measure.
As many have said... the block and pistons are pretty durable...
.
.
Last edited by mountainhorse; 01-09-2019 at 02:43 PM.
#17
WayMotor kit
Oil pan Gasket (not in picture)
Cylinder Head Gasket
Valve cover Gasket, with spark plug seals
Supercharger inlet Gasket
Crankshaft Position Sensor Oring
Front Main Seal
Rear Main Seal
Water Pump Oring
Water Pump Flange to Block Oring
Intake Manifold Gasket
Exhaust Manifold Gasket
Supercharger Outlet Gasket
Driver Side Intake Manifold Gasket
OTHER seals/items I'd like to replace
Oil cap O-ring 11127514981
PCV vent hose pn 11151524087
Camshaft Position sensor o-ring 12147514984
2ea o-rings for cyl head plugs (outer) 11317514982
Front of block cover plate o-ring seal 11111487596
Oil pump pickup tube o-ring 11411487214
Oil pump pressure relief valve/plunger o-ring 07131485193
Oil filter housing to block gasket/seal 11427509211
2ea Oil cooler plate to oil filter housing o-rings 11427509261
Water Pump With O-Ring 11511490591
1ea Water pump to block adapter flange o-ring 11517509186
Thermostat with gasket 11537596787
MAP sensor o-ring 13627515272
Gasket, throttle body 13547509045
Fuel pressure regulator o-ring (small) 13537521182
Fuel pressure regulator o-ring (large) 13537521183
4ea Fuel injector seal (upper) 13641437487
4ea Fuel injector seal (lower) 13641437487
Oil pan Gasket (not in picture)
Cylinder Head Gasket
Valve cover Gasket, with spark plug seals
Supercharger inlet Gasket
Crankshaft Position Sensor Oring
Front Main Seal
Rear Main Seal
Water Pump Oring
Water Pump Flange to Block Oring
Intake Manifold Gasket
Exhaust Manifold Gasket
Supercharger Outlet Gasket
Driver Side Intake Manifold Gasket
OTHER seals/items I'd like to replace
Oil cap O-ring 11127514981
PCV vent hose pn 11151524087
Camshaft Position sensor o-ring 12147514984
2ea o-rings for cyl head plugs (outer) 11317514982
Front of block cover plate o-ring seal 11111487596
Oil pump pickup tube o-ring 11411487214
Oil pump pressure relief valve/plunger o-ring 07131485193
Oil filter housing to block gasket/seal 11427509211
2ea Oil cooler plate to oil filter housing o-rings 11427509261
Water Pump With O-Ring 11511490591
1ea Water pump to block adapter flange o-ring 11517509186
Thermostat with gasket 11537596787
MAP sensor o-ring 13627515272
Gasket, throttle body 13547509045
Fuel pressure regulator o-ring (small) 13537521182
Fuel pressure regulator o-ring (large) 13537521183
4ea Fuel injector seal (upper) 13641437487
4ea Fuel injector seal (lower) 13641437487
Last edited by mountainhorse; 01-09-2019 at 02:44 PM.
#18
#19
You mentioned the front main seal, which means you'll have the crank pulley off.
Are you planning on putting the old pulley back on?
If not, a new pulley will be needed, probably should go with the ATI unit.
If you're doing the complete timing cover components...
External Parts:
Serpentine Belt, p/n 11287520199
Belt Tensioner, p/n 11287509476
Idler Pulley, p/n 11288625983
(FYI - Many vendors offer the above three items as a kit)
Timing Cover special bolt w/integral o-ring, p/n 07131485184
(installs at center of timing cover, behind crank pulley)
Internal Parts:
Timing Cover Gasket, p/n 11141485162
Timing Case Cover Seal - Upper, p/n 11411485173
Timing Case Cover Seal - Lower, p/n 11411485172
Are you planning on putting the old pulley back on?
If not, a new pulley will be needed, probably should go with the ATI unit.
If you're doing the complete timing cover components...
External Parts:
Serpentine Belt, p/n 11287520199
Belt Tensioner, p/n 11287509476
Idler Pulley, p/n 11288625983
(FYI - Many vendors offer the above three items as a kit)
Timing Cover special bolt w/integral o-ring, p/n 07131485184
(installs at center of timing cover, behind crank pulley)
Internal Parts:
Timing Cover Gasket, p/n 11141485162
Timing Case Cover Seal - Upper, p/n 11411485173
Timing Case Cover Seal - Lower, p/n 11411485172
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mountainhorse (01-11-2019)
#20
#21
Defnitely NOT; It's one of those products in the "solution in search of a problem" category.
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mountainhorse (01-11-2019)
#22
I see that ATI has two avail.... stock diameter and 2% overdrive size.
Wondering how the 2% at the crank pulley translates to XX% for the aftermarket overdrive SC pulley??
I'm really leaning towards the JCW Supercharger replacement anyways... IF I do.... I believe that has an 11% OD pulley on it??
Wondering how the 2%-ATI OD Crank pulley WITH the JCW pencils out in terms of OVERALL %-ages?
New idler pulley while I'm at it??
Which one is best quality.... Aftermarket as good/better than OE?
It seems that in SOME cases (like the ATI damper below) that aftermarket has a better option in terms of quality and price.
.
Wondering how the 2% at the crank pulley translates to XX% for the aftermarket overdrive SC pulley??
I'm really leaning towards the JCW Supercharger replacement anyways... IF I do.... I believe that has an 11% OD pulley on it??
Wondering how the 2%-ATI OD Crank pulley WITH the JCW pencils out in terms of OVERALL %-ages?
New idler pulley while I'm at it??
Which one is best quality.... Aftermarket as good/better than OE?
It seems that in SOME cases (like the ATI damper below) that aftermarket has a better option in terms of quality and price.
.
Last edited by mountainhorse; 01-11-2019 at 06:11 PM.
#23
Vendor
iTrader: (10)
Many of these gaskets and seals I feel are a waste as in the last 17yrs I've never replaced some of them. Rule of thumb if I don't have the gasket listed on my site I haven't had to replace it.
OTHER seals/items I'd like to replace
Oil cap O-ring 11127514981 Don't bother
PCV vent hose pn 11151524087
https://www.waymotorworks.com/crankc...-cooper-s.html
Camshaft Position sensor o-ring 12147514984
https://www.waymotorworks.com/camsha...or-o-ring.html
2ea o-rings for cyl head plugs (outer) 11317514982
https://www.waymotorworks.com/head-p...0-r52-r53.html
Front of block cover plate o-ring seal 11111487596
https://www.waymotorworks.com/water-...g-r52-r53.html
Oil pump pressure relief valve/plunger o-ring 07131485193 do with the pump
Oil filter housing to block gasket/seal 11427509211
https://www.waymotorworks.com/oil-fi...0-r52-r53.html
2ea Oil cooler plate to oil filter housing o-rings 11427509261
https://www.waymotorworks.com/oil-co...s-r52-r53.html
Water Pump With O-Ring 11511490591
https://www.waymotorworks.com/r53-water-pump.html
1ea Water pump to block adapter flange o-ring 11517509186
https://www.waymotorworks.com/water-...g-r52-r53.html
Thermostat with gasket 11537596787
https://www.waymotorworks.com/thermo...t-r50-r53.html
MAP sensor o-ring 13627515272 Don't bother , they come on new map sensors to
Gasket, throttle body 13547509045
https://www.waymotorworks.com/thrott...-cooper-s.html
Fuel pressure regulator o-ring (small) 13537521182 Don't bother
Fuel pressure regulator o-ring (large) 13537521183 Don't bother
4ea Fuel injector seal (upper) 13641437487
https://www.waymotorworks.com/fuel-i...0-r52-r53.html
4ea Fuel injector seal (lower) 13641437487
https://www.waymotorworks.com/fuel-i...0-r52-r53.html
OTHER seals/items I'd like to replace
Oil cap O-ring 11127514981 Don't bother
PCV vent hose pn 11151524087
https://www.waymotorworks.com/crankc...-cooper-s.html
Camshaft Position sensor o-ring 12147514984
https://www.waymotorworks.com/camsha...or-o-ring.html
2ea o-rings for cyl head plugs (outer) 11317514982
https://www.waymotorworks.com/head-p...0-r52-r53.html
Front of block cover plate o-ring seal 11111487596
https://www.waymotorworks.com/water-...g-r52-r53.html
Oil pump pressure relief valve/plunger o-ring 07131485193 do with the pump
Oil filter housing to block gasket/seal 11427509211
https://www.waymotorworks.com/oil-fi...0-r52-r53.html
2ea Oil cooler plate to oil filter housing o-rings 11427509261
https://www.waymotorworks.com/oil-co...s-r52-r53.html
Water Pump With O-Ring 11511490591
https://www.waymotorworks.com/r53-water-pump.html
1ea Water pump to block adapter flange o-ring 11517509186
https://www.waymotorworks.com/water-...g-r52-r53.html
Thermostat with gasket 11537596787
https://www.waymotorworks.com/thermo...t-r50-r53.html
MAP sensor o-ring 13627515272 Don't bother , they come on new map sensors to
Gasket, throttle body 13547509045
https://www.waymotorworks.com/thrott...-cooper-s.html
Fuel pressure regulator o-ring (small) 13537521182 Don't bother
Fuel pressure regulator o-ring (large) 13537521183 Don't bother
4ea Fuel injector seal (upper) 13641437487
https://www.waymotorworks.com/fuel-i...0-r52-r53.html
4ea Fuel injector seal (lower) 13641437487
https://www.waymotorworks.com/fuel-i...0-r52-r53.html
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mountainhorse (01-11-2019)
#24
Unless you suspect that something is wrong with the internals I wouldn’t mess with the crank or pistons. If you do those you are essentially doing a complete rebuild. If you are going to do a rebuild then do it right and send the block and head to the machine shop and have them go through it. Crank also. When you change crank bearings you take the chance that they will not seat properly. You have to match crank bearings with the crank wear and you need to do your research on proper clearances. I say this with the knowledge of having rebuilt V8s from bare block on up. If you have never rebuilt an engine you need to do your homework before you decide to tear down your engine. There is a lot more detail to it than on the face of it. Especially if you want it to last.
#25
To a degree however.. I would be opening it up.
To start... the engine I'm subbing-in is a long block... so no ancillary components on it (no SC, alt, oil filter, tensioners, belts, plumbing etc... just the long block assy.
On a 12 year old motor... I'll be doing the gaskets anyway...which means I'll have the timing cover, pan, valve cover, oil filter, front and rear main seals off and the engine will be pretty open at that point.
Then... new chain guides/tensioner and timing set.
Looking at a motor with this done... popping the pistons out and clean and de-carbon.... add some inexpensive ARP rod bolts, plasti-gauge, check ring condition and end-gap in the bore... pretty darn straight forward and only 2 more hours of labor unless I find an issue (which would be good to know now).
A new head gasket is pretty inexpensive... and a fresh set of head bolts or a $100 set of ARP head studs... good measures IMO... and in the overall scope of the project ...easy for me to justify. For me, regardless of the miles on an engine, for a build that was not to sell a car or baby it through a few more years... I would not put a used long block into a car without checking everything.
From what i'm reading on here from others about these engines....in another post where I'll be doing a full rebuild for a second car... these engines can run strong for a long, long time when properly maintained.
With a freshened motor with this low of miles, re-sealed... a new clutch ... i really do not anticipate pulling this motor for many miles and anticipate another 150K out of it.
The major effort here, for me, is having the motor out of the car in the first place... this stuff is minor IMO.
I could see if someone were working on the floor in their garage, with only basic tools, this may be intimidating however... I get that.
But this W11-Tritec engine seems very straight forward at this point to me... and will be on the stand next to four other V8's in my shop... good company.
.
To start... the engine I'm subbing-in is a long block... so no ancillary components on it (no SC, alt, oil filter, tensioners, belts, plumbing etc... just the long block assy.
On a 12 year old motor... I'll be doing the gaskets anyway...which means I'll have the timing cover, pan, valve cover, oil filter, front and rear main seals off and the engine will be pretty open at that point.
Then... new chain guides/tensioner and timing set.
Looking at a motor with this done... popping the pistons out and clean and de-carbon.... add some inexpensive ARP rod bolts, plasti-gauge, check ring condition and end-gap in the bore... pretty darn straight forward and only 2 more hours of labor unless I find an issue (which would be good to know now).
A new head gasket is pretty inexpensive... and a fresh set of head bolts or a $100 set of ARP head studs... good measures IMO... and in the overall scope of the project ...easy for me to justify. For me, regardless of the miles on an engine, for a build that was not to sell a car or baby it through a few more years... I would not put a used long block into a car without checking everything.
From what i'm reading on here from others about these engines....in another post where I'll be doing a full rebuild for a second car... these engines can run strong for a long, long time when properly maintained.
With a freshened motor with this low of miles, re-sealed... a new clutch ... i really do not anticipate pulling this motor for many miles and anticipate another 150K out of it.
The major effort here, for me, is having the motor out of the car in the first place... this stuff is minor IMO.
I could see if someone were working on the floor in their garage, with only basic tools, this may be intimidating however... I get that.
But this W11-Tritec engine seems very straight forward at this point to me... and will be on the stand next to four other V8's in my shop... good company.
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Last edited by mountainhorse; 01-13-2019 at 12:24 PM.