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Symptoms:
-EP, DSC Light ON, TPMS Light and Service Engine Light all comes on within driving about 8-12 miles and car does not want to shift.
Okay, let me take you back to when this first started. Several weeks installing the above upgrades I was driving around 75MPH on the Interstate and the DSC and TPMS lights came on. My first thought was "Wheel Speed Sensor", and I continued on my drive. Then minutes later on the same drive I noticed the back light on the Speedo Tachometer turned off, and the RPM gauge/needle stopped working.
NOTE: The Mini performed drove normally during all this - it did not cause any performance issues.
I kept driving as I normally would over the next week or so, and the RPM Needle and back light on the Speedo Tach behind the steering wheel STAYED OFF but the car drove fine. By turning the car "OFF then ON" the DSC/TPMS would go away, but would randomly come back on.
Now here is when things start to get fishy...
While driving to work on a RAINY DAY(this is huge) about two weeks after the initial issue, not only did the DSC/TPMS come on but the SERVICE ENGINE SOON and EP message came up....then my car started to behave extremely erratic. The transmission seemed to only want to stay in the gear it was in at the time all the lights came on. Also, remember the RPM gauge that stopped working? Well, it now comes alive whenever ALL of these other Warning Lights come on.
I quickly pulled over after the barrage of lights on the dash and turn the car off. I sat beside the road a good 5-10 minutes then turned the car back on. To my surprise all the lights were gone and the car started driving normal again.
This is now the normal for the my car and I am currently using my wife's car to get back and forth to work. It seems like when the car is cold and I drive a few miles I'm fine, and get no lights.
Also, one day while driving and testing a few things out ALL of the DASHBOARD LIGHTS literally LIT UP like a CHRISTMAS TREE, all flashing... the Temp Gauge was GOING UP and DOWN, UP, DOWN, UP - SAME FOR THE RPM GAUGE....UGH!
The EP light is really scaring me....
Some VERY strange things that I would like to note:
-When it rains it tends to make this problem waaaaaay more present.
-When the RPM/SPEEDO BACKLIGHT stay OFF, the car runs PERFECT - it is ONLY when this gauge comes ON I know I'm about to get ROCKED.
-Around 8-9 months ago I experienced an issue where I thought I had the "Trifecta - DSC/TPMS/SERVICE ENGINE SOON" issue and all lights all came on, but ironically enough, stopped after 2-3 days(NOTE: the EP light was not present at this time).
There is also a VERY IMPORTANT POINT I want to bring up that the mechanic who worked on my car mentioned to me. After installing the ATI DAMPER he said:
"I'm surprised any of the electronic's in the car were working because I double the alternator was getting enough power. With the ATI DAMPER it should be getting full power now."
The EP LIGHT is really making me hate my life.
I also stopped by an AUTOZONE to have the battery and alternator tested after this issue started: which according to them were "fine" (I'm not so sure about this).
Is this an example of ALTERNATOR OVERCHARGING?
PLEASE HELP!
What I think that could be causing this problem?
-Alternator Overchage?
-Wheel Speed Sensor?
-Bad Battery?
-Transmission Issue?(Dear sweet baby Jesus, no no no!)
Any suggestions or advice is greatly appreciated! Thank you all for reading this long winded explanation of my Motoring Sadness.
The rubber tubing on the drains coming loose is a common problem. The front passenger drain is right above the BCM module which controls most of the electronics for the car and it might be what’s causing some of the electrical issues.
The rubber tubing on the drains coming loose is a common problem. The front passenger drain is right above the BCM module which controls most of the electronics for the car and it might be what’s causing some of the electrical issues.
You need to check th ground leads under the hood, on the right inner fender area. If it has gotten water on the floor, the grounds under the carpet on the passenger side may have corroded and or broke off. It sure sounds like a ground fault to me.
Bryan had a similar issue: on the last page https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-or-not-8.html
I took my car to the local Garage and the news wasn't good...
The mechanic said he was so slammed before Christmas that he did not have time to diagnose the issue with my R53.
I was told that it would take 2-3 hours of diagnostics to find the problem and that it didn't look good.
He explained that it would cost $180 at least to figure out the issue, and it at best would likely be $1000 fix...possibly more.
I was given the list of codes that it is throwing and wanted to see if anyone had any additional advice.
Looks like I'm going to start taking my seats out very soon and getting under the carpet to see if water has caused an issue.
Some interested things the mechanic said:
1) He seen no signs of water or moisture in the car.
2) He stated that an "INVALID VIN" coming from the ABS Module explains that my car had another ABS Module installed from another car.
I'm not sure what to make of any of this and am beginning to think this may be the end of my R53 - PLEASE SOMEONE TELL ME OTHERWISE!!!
EDIT:
If someone is in the LEXINGTON, KY area and would be interested in helping(Of course I'd pay) me out I would greatly appreciate it.
I freaking love my car and this is really killing me.
Hi Tyler,
Don't lose hope as it does not sound like a giant problem. Since you are in the east, road salts play havoc with the grounds, there is also one bunch on the passenger side under the floor mat/carpet. The can corrode and actually drop off! There are also a stack in view on the passenger side of the car, these can also corrode. Clean them up first, take off the bolt and clean (sand) the chassis and the mating metal bracket. Reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery and let it set for ten minutes, then hook it up again.
The engine has gone into creep mode, so, if you have an OBDII scan tool, you can reset the codes. Then you will need to see if they return.
If you get the codes, let us know all of them and we can help you from there.
Be wary of any mechanic that tells you it will cost $1000 or more to repair a vehicle that he hasn’t even diagnosed yet. Get another opinion. This could be related to electrical connections.
be wary of any mechanic that tells you it will cost $1000 or more to repair a vehicle that he hasn’t even diagnosed yet. Get another opinion. This could be related to electrical connections.
Hi Tyler,
Don't lose hope as it does not sound like a giant problem. Since you are in the east, road salts play havoc with the grounds, there is also one bunch on the passenger side under the floor mat/carpet. The can corrode and actually drop off! There are also a stack in view on the passenger side of the car, these can also corrode. Clean them up first, take off the bolt and clean (sand) the chassis and the mating metal bracket. Reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery and let it set for ten minutes, then hook it up again.
The engine has gone into creep mode, so, if you have an OBDII scan tool, you can reset the codes. Then you will need to see if they return.
If you get the codes, let us know all of them and we can help you from there.
I think it's time someone wrote a BIG 'sticky' about battery connections & grounds on MINIs.
It seems to me that a very large percentage of 'gremlin' reports are caused by loose or corroded connections or forgotten plugs. Looking at, wiggling or squirting WD40 on a connection won't do it - they all need to be clean, bright & tight. I think there are 9 on most MINIs & there's a list somewhere (that I can't find).
It's easy to do, you don't need a code reader & it will cost you Sweet Fanny Adams.
i think it's time someone wrote a big 'sticky' about battery connections & grounds on minis.
It seems to me that a very large percentage of 'gremlin' reports are caused by loose or corroded connections or forgotten plugs. Looking at, wiggling or squirting wd40 on a connection won't do it - they all need to be clean, bright & tight. I think there are 9 on most minis & there's a list somewhere (that i can't find).
It's easy to do, you don't need a code reader & it will cost you sweet fanny adams.
You can buy OBDll scanner tools for around $100 That work with a cell phone. There are many out there. I keep one in my Mini, so if there is trouble I can plug it in and see what the codes are and mine also recommends areas that should be checked. They are Magic, They are cheap, They are ready at a moments notice and they can save you an expensive tow and repair shop bill!
Are they not needed?
I don't go anywhere in my Mini without one!
You can buy OBDll scanner tools for around $100 ....................
Well, yes you can, but consider this:
When one dashboard error light comes on, your MINI is telling you there's a specific problem. Your first assumption should be that the sensor is working correctly - it's telling you what it's designed to tell you.
Yes, you may need a code reader to find out more specifically which sensor is telling you what is wrong.
When you get a Christmas tree of lights, do you seriously think that all those things failed at once? If you don't assume that the sensors are correct, then do you replace them all? That won't fix the problem. Any error codes you find are likely to be multiple spurious ones, generated by random signals. Remember that in most cases you're not dealing with conventional / old-fashioned DC +/- 'voltages', but network signals of packets, bits & bytes, much like a PC.
So the first step in diagnostics for multiple errors should be to check the network connections, the computer plugs & the multiple ground connections. Disconnect the battery overnight, let the computer memories drain down & then re-boot your MINI!
You should ask MINI why it was thought it a good idea to put sensitive computer modules under the windshield leak, under the sunroof drain, or put the wiper motor ground where it's guaranteed to get wet or put the battery in a known flood zone.
Well, yes you can, but consider this:
When one dashboard error light comes on, your MINI is telling you there's a specific problem. Your first assumption should be that the sensor is working correctly - it's telling you what it's designed to tell you.
Yes, you may need a code reader to find out more specifically which sensor is telling you what is wrong.
When you get a Christmas tree of lights, do you seriously think that all those things failed at once? If you don't assume that the sensors are correct, then do you replace them all? That won't fix the problem. Any error codes you find are likely to be multiple spurious ones, generated by random signals. Remember that in most cases you're not dealing with conventional / old-fashioned DC +/- 'voltages', but network signals of packets, bits & bytes, much like a PC.
So the first step in diagnostics for multiple errors should be to check the network connections, the computer plugs & the multiple ground connections. Disconnect the battery overnight, let the computer memories drain down & then re-boot your MINI!
You should ask MINI why it was thought it a good idea to put sensitive computer modules under the windshield leak, under the sunroof drain, or put the wiper motor ground where it's guaranteed to get wet or put the battery in a known flood zone.
I am sorry, I can not help you! You seem to have all the answers! Let us know what you find!
Oh, you are not the one asking!
Do you think dissing me is going to help, in this?
Yes, a bad battery can cause unusual events and spurious readings. If your battery is three or more years old it probably needs replacing. A battery can hold a charge, start the car, and seemingly function normally, but not hold a full charge which is required to properly run electrical components. The best place to test a battery is at an auto electric facility where their main job is auto electrics. Or you can take it to a different auto store. I had an ignition module tested at an auto zone off of a 71 Chevelle. They said it was fine. I kept chasing a reason for bad acceleration and misfire on the vehicle. I finally decided to have the module tested by someone else and it tested to be weak. I replaced it and it ran like a scalded cat. Wasted a lot of time.
Yes, The battery when the car is running, needs to be 14.2 volts to 14.5. BMW wants at least 14.2 to operate the system correctly.
A weak or old battery is the problem often, as it will not like the high charge rate the alternator is throwing at it.
Only use a premium battery!
Delay in my plans to tear the car apart last night - I was kept at work late and the rain really put a damper on things.
So, tonight and tomorrow I will be taking a deep dive and see what my Mini is really made of.
I went and had the battery checked today at two different auto stores and both said "BATTERY GOOD - NEEDS RECHARGED"
They also tested the "Alternator" and "Charging Systems", both came back "GOOD" as well.
The battery tested at 14.17 VOLTS while running.
The guy at Autozone strongly suggested I wait and figure out what the problem is before buying a new battery since he claimed the "battery manufacturer" would not warranty a new battery if something else in my car is draining it.
I'm still not convinced the battery is in the best of shape but we shall see.
I'll be posting pictures of anything I find tonight/tomorrow so stay posted.
How was the battery tested while running?
If it was tested while connected to the vehicle then they were reading alternator voltage and not battery load capability. A battery can have a bad cell and still work although below full voltage. The alternator should provide close to full voltage at idle and full voltage at about 2000 rpm.
Last edited by Tgriffithjr; 12-16-2018 at 06:00 PM.
GUYS!!!
I think I may have figured out what's wrong!!! Please let me know what to do next!!
I first noticed that power steering fluid may be leaking out of the housing then I looked down....
It appears that some type of GROUND wire(I think?) has wedged itself right along side the Auto Trans Cooler(I think). I'm not sure how hot the Auto Trans Cooler gets hot(if it is the actual Cooler), but whatever is covering this wire was literally breaking/wiping off at the touch(See pictures below).
My theory is once the car heats up enough it pretty much is putting this wire out of commission and causing the vehicle to go haywire.
This is what I seen first...
This picture is basically looking straight down from the Power Steering Housing as you can see the hose in the top of the photo.
Another photo of the exposed wire - I actually touched the wire and the covering around the wire was coming off easily to the touch. It was getting so hot it turned to goo.
Here's a different angle to try and get a better idea of what I'm looking at.
What is this wire for? And am I safe to assume it's not supposed to be laid up against the auto trans cooling housing?
I don’t have an auto and I don’t recognize that on my car. Are you sure it’s a cable or is that just a protective sleeve on a hard vacuum tube? If it is a wire or cable check under the crumbling part to see if it is just covering the insulated wire for protection against contact with a hot surface.
I'm back guys! I know everyone is probably tired of seeing this never dying thread but I have more disappointing news.
With the growing frustration of being unable to drive my Mini, I caved and took it to a local shop.
The local shop says that we should "Replace the Tachometer" because "they have to start somewhere."
Keep in mind this is after having the vehicle for a FULL WEEK!
I'm suspicious of this because:
1) They don't sound very confident when I speak with them on the phone and ask direct questions on how and why this will solve the problem.
2) I'm even more suspicious because ALL of the 3 times I've talked with the shop and ask for an update they say, "Yeah, we tried disconnecting the iPod Adapter because we've seen that cause so many problems, but it doesn't look like it's causing the problem this time." NO JOKE - 2 different people have told me this, and one person told me this TWICE!
3) BEFORE I TOOK THE VEHICLE IN TO THE SHOP, I DISCONNECTED THE iPOD ADAPTER MYSELF!! This is some BS excuse for them either not looking at the car or they have no idea what the issue actually is.
4) When I asked why the tachometer would be causing this issue, he explained, "Well, when the tachometer loses power/dies the car itself doesn't know what gear it's in...."
Funny that he says that because when the Tachometer is OFF, the actually car drives perfectly FINE. It's only when the Tachometer comes back that the issue appears.
At the moment I feel like going to the shop and getting my car back.
Sucks being in a town and not being able to find ONE decent mechanic that will investigate the issue instead of saying "Welp, we gotta start somewhere!"
Really wish I was near Way Motor Works or some reputable Mini Garage.
Is there any chance that the Tachometer is causing my issue or is he feeding me BS so he can start a huge repair bill for me.
Thank you everyone! Hope to get this resolved sooner than later.
EDIT:
Looks like there were several other people experiencing the same problem as me. It doesn't appear anyone has solved this issue over there either but I'm going to try and follow up
11-11-2018, 05:10 PM
