It seems odd that the plates weren’t marked. My SPC plates were stamped for which side, but even then, it’s not too hard to figure out which side they go on because they’re asymmetrical. The shop should have been able to figure that out, too.

Any MacPherson strut-specific spring compressor should work. I have a cheap $25 one from amazon that works fine for these cars.

There is no caster adjustment on these cars. Without adjustable plates, all you can change is toe. If I recall correctly, I’m running 0.12 inches of total toe-in, which is factory spec. I think the more track-oriented guys go to zero toe or a little toe-out.

Road Atlanta....Hmmmm
Just finished watching the Petit La Mans that were held there. Looks like a really fun track.

I would do a slight toe-in for a DD/street car and I would do -2 camber on the rear to balance with the added front camber and offset the tendency to over-rotate with the addition of only the large rear swaybar. Personally I am a fan of having the large front swaybar along with a large RSB for a track car. I like the balance it gives.

Yes it can. But it depends on how you drive. For example, if you straight line brake before turning in, there is the tendency to over brake which will cause you to get on the gas before the apex, which will cause the car to understeer. On the other hand, if you trail brake deep into the corner, you will load up the front tires, lower the car on the front suspension causing more camber and grip on the front, which in turn lightens the rear and the rear will lose grip causing the car to understeer less. Even with a large rear swaybar the former will still cause understeer. With trailbraking, the large RSB will tend to make it harder to perform because it will further reduce the grip at the rear, which can cause the car to oversteer.

Personally, I would start with the RSB on the softest setting until you get a really good feeling of how the car behaves for you.