R50/53 2006 JCW R53 "Refresh"
#1
2006 JCW R53 "Refresh"
New on the Forum but loving it already - bought myself a Mini JCW in Qatar ! It is basically a very well looked after car, judging by all the work recorded (and thousands spent) on the BMW Mini service centre computer records. I was there yesterday picking up some Coolant and MTF and asked to see the records - they tend not to stamp the service books here, but more rely on the computerized records. Anyway suffice it to say no expense seems to have been spared for this little pampered Mini, and now I need to keep it going with a few minor jobs (famous last words!).
So far I have on the list:
1. Oils and Filters Service (Air, Cabin AC and Oil filters, with Engine oil and MTF) - Brake Fluid done at BMW in 2016
2. Radiator / Coolant flush
3. Rear Wheel bearings / hubs
4. CV Boots - only inner ones split but might as well do them all - clean out and new grease on CV joints
5. Either engine mounts and/or suspension bushings - will know more once I start stripping bits off
6. AC not cooling much - was sorted easily with a re-gas but will keep an eye in it in case there is a leak somewhere
7. New Tyres needed - having a look around at what's available
I'll keep the list updated as the work progresses and put some pictures up as we go along. Hope you guys will keep me on the straight and narrow !
So far I have on the list:
1. Oils and Filters Service (Air, Cabin AC and Oil filters, with Engine oil and MTF) - Brake Fluid done at BMW in 2016
2. Radiator / Coolant flush
3. Rear Wheel bearings / hubs
4. CV Boots - only inner ones split but might as well do them all - clean out and new grease on CV joints
5. Either engine mounts and/or suspension bushings - will know more once I start stripping bits off
6. AC not cooling much - was sorted easily with a re-gas but will keep an eye in it in case there is a leak somewhere
7. New Tyres needed - having a look around at what's available
I'll keep the list updated as the work progresses and put some pictures up as we go along. Hope you guys will keep me on the straight and narrow !
#2
OVERDRIVE
iTrader: (1)
Will this be your "build" thread?
Very nice looking, especially for a 12 year old car. I like the Pepper White with the black , but where you are you might have been better off with a white roof. None the less, really nice find there.
A couple of things to consider. Over the years I have read about how poor the shocks are in these cars and thought that people were just whining. Mine seemed fine. Well, after changing mine out with about 50k miles on the car to some performance shocks that I thought would make the ride worse, and found that the ride is actually better, I have to agree with all of those other posts. The MINI shocks are poor (some would say "crap"). So, at 45k miles, I would put shocks on my short list. Second, while you are at it add a set of IE fixed camber plates. The increase in camber is just what this car needs for sharp turn-in and these do not add to tire wear or decrease ride quality. And, a bonus, they are made with a plate that will keep the strut towers from mushrooming.
Enjoy!
Very nice looking, especially for a 12 year old car. I like the Pepper White with the black , but where you are you might have been better off with a white roof. None the less, really nice find there.
A couple of things to consider. Over the years I have read about how poor the shocks are in these cars and thought that people were just whining. Mine seemed fine. Well, after changing mine out with about 50k miles on the car to some performance shocks that I thought would make the ride worse, and found that the ride is actually better, I have to agree with all of those other posts. The MINI shocks are poor (some would say "crap"). So, at 45k miles, I would put shocks on my short list. Second, while you are at it add a set of IE fixed camber plates. The increase in camber is just what this car needs for sharp turn-in and these do not add to tire wear or decrease ride quality. And, a bonus, they are made with a plate that will keep the strut towers from mushrooming.
Enjoy!
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QatarJCWR53 (09-02-2018)
#3
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QatarJCWR53 (09-02-2018)
#4
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QatarJCWR53 (09-02-2018)
#5
Will this be your "build" thread?
Very nice looking, especially for a 12 year old car. I like the Pepper White with the black , but where you are you might have been better off with a white roof. None the less, really nice find there.
A couple of things to consider. Over the years I have read about how poor the shocks are in these cars and thought that people were just whining. Mine seemed fine. Well, after changing mine out with about 50k miles on the car to some performance shocks that I thought would make the ride worse, and found that the ride is actually better, I have to agree with all of those other posts. The MINI shocks are poor (some would say "crap"). So, at 45k miles, I would put shocks on my short list. Second, while you are at it add a set of IE fixed camber plates. The increase in camber is just what this car needs for sharp turn-in and these do not add to tire wear or decrease ride quality. And, a bonus, they are made with a plate that will keep the strut towers from mushrooming.
Enjoy!
Very nice looking, especially for a 12 year old car. I like the Pepper White with the black , but where you are you might have been better off with a white roof. None the less, really nice find there.
A couple of things to consider. Over the years I have read about how poor the shocks are in these cars and thought that people were just whining. Mine seemed fine. Well, after changing mine out with about 50k miles on the car to some performance shocks that I thought would make the ride worse, and found that the ride is actually better, I have to agree with all of those other posts. The MINI shocks are poor (some would say "crap"). So, at 45k miles, I would put shocks on my short list. Second, while you are at it add a set of IE fixed camber plates. The increase in camber is just what this car needs for sharp turn-in and these do not add to tire wear or decrease ride quality. And, a bonus, they are made with a plate that will keep the strut towers from mushrooming.
Enjoy!
Shocks and camber plates are definitely on the shopping list, not sure exactly when though. She had shocks replaced a few years back at BMW so I hope they last for a little while.
Last edited by QatarJCWR53; 07-11-2018 at 10:55 PM. Reason: more info
#6
The paint is exceptional - as is the interior- all I can guess is that it has been in the shade all its life. The Ministry of Transport (Interior) provide the residents of Qatar with a free 'app' which provides a vehicle history check service. As you need a Police report to get ANY repairs to bodywork done here, every little (even a bumper respray) or large accident is recorded on the central database. This little beauty has zero accidents recorded and the paintwork is testimony to that - can't find any tell tale signs of respray or panel repair. Now that is very unusual for Qatar - they drive like idiots here.
Last edited by QatarJCWR53; 07-11-2018 at 11:02 PM. Reason: more info
#7
We had a break last night to recover 8
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#8
Ok here we go time for some pics of our little project - had my team of helpers on hand too - seemed like a good idea and they were so keen - but they felt it yesterday !
The trolley jack is under - after some help from the OEM wind up jack
Our home made 'block stands'
Both front sides up now
As it was
My youngest helper !
Wheels in good nick - Cheapy Accelera tyres - plenty of tread
Discs have a lip on them but pads are almost new
The trolley jack is under - after some help from the OEM wind up jack
Our home made 'block stands'
Both front sides up now
As it was
My youngest helper !
Wheels in good nick - Cheapy Accelera tyres - plenty of tread
Discs have a lip on them but pads are almost new
#9
Bit too dirty for my liking and not a great deal of oil came out I was expecting around 4 .5 litres atleast - might be due to the fact that the dipstick is broken and no-one could check the level - and obviously hasn't been changed for a while -
Those clips are a pain sometimes - if they are siezed up the plastic screw head gets rounded - so what i do is heat up a flat head screwdriver and stick it in the top - creating a nice new slot - let it cool and bam jobs a good'un
bumper off more easy than I was expecting
Oil filter top removed - 36mm shallow socket required
extra little heat shield above exhaust manifold
Radiator off next
Looks like dirty old plain water - had a fair amount of very fine grit in the bottom of the bucket
Ok where does this condenser go now ?? I can't stay here all night lol
Well cable ties to the rescue again
Crank pulley looks fairly new ??
Those clips are a pain sometimes - if they are siezed up the plastic screw head gets rounded - so what i do is heat up a flat head screwdriver and stick it in the top - creating a nice new slot - let it cool and bam jobs a good'un
bumper off more easy than I was expecting
Oil filter top removed - 36mm shallow socket required
extra little heat shield above exhaust manifold
Radiator off next
Looks like dirty old plain water - had a fair amount of very fine grit in the bottom of the bucket
Ok where does this condenser go now ?? I can't stay here all night lol
Well cable ties to the rescue again
Crank pulley looks fairly new ??
#11
Split CV Boot
Baked on CV grease
These CV Boots look like the originals
Engine mount looks ok - how can you check which engine mount has perished ??
Lower wishbone
Looks pretty dry so should be ok ??
Brake fluid reservoir looks like its seen better days - bit of a leak in the bottom maybe
Oil filter housing
And almost forgot to drain the transmission fluid - again looks pretty old, but atleast there's plenty of it
Nasty looking
Baked on CV grease
These CV Boots look like the originals
Engine mount looks ok - how can you check which engine mount has perished ??
Lower wishbone
Looks pretty dry so should be ok ??
Brake fluid reservoir looks like its seen better days - bit of a leak in the bottom maybe
Oil filter housing
And almost forgot to drain the transmission fluid - again looks pretty old, but atleast there's plenty of it
Nasty looking
#13
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QatarJCWR53 (09-02-2018)
#14
You have quite the project here!
I did a coolant flush on my last car, which has been several years ago now......seems like there is a coolant drain bolt on the back side of the block beneath the exhaust header, but I can’t tell you for sure where it is. I do remember it was a bit tricky to reach and I used a long handled wrench to access it.
On the engine mount, the thing to look for is if there’s a gap between the rubber “pad” and the metal canister portion of the mount. If the rubber is resting on the top of the metal portion, the mount is dead and the fluid has likely leaked out long ago. Here’s a picture of the new mount I installed just a couple of months ago and the way it should look if it’s ok.....notice the gap between the sides of the rubber portion of the mount and the metal part.
I did a coolant flush on my last car, which has been several years ago now......seems like there is a coolant drain bolt on the back side of the block beneath the exhaust header, but I can’t tell you for sure where it is. I do remember it was a bit tricky to reach and I used a long handled wrench to access it.
On the engine mount, the thing to look for is if there’s a gap between the rubber “pad” and the metal canister portion of the mount. If the rubber is resting on the top of the metal portion, the mount is dead and the fluid has likely leaked out long ago. Here’s a picture of the new mount I installed just a couple of months ago and the way it should look if it’s ok.....notice the gap between the sides of the rubber portion of the mount and the metal part.
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QatarJCWR53 (09-02-2018),
T8or (09-17-2019)
#15
Thanks - been searching on here and apparently its a silver coloured bolt obscured by the passenger side driveshaft - which is due to come out later today so I'll have a butchers. As far as water pump goes, no I haven't thought about replacement - is this preventive maintenance ? I will also check the BMW service history to see if it has been done already.
#16
You have quite the project here!
I did a coolant flush on my last car, which has been several years ago now......seems like there is a coolant drain bolt on the back side of the block beneath the exhaust header, but I can’t tell you for sure where it is. I do remember it was a bit tricky to reach and I used a long handled wrench to access it.
On the engine mount, the thing to look for is if there’s a gap between the rubber “pad” and the metal canister portion of the mount. If the rubber is resting on the top of the metal portion, the mount is dead and the fluid has likely leaked out long ago. Here’s a picture of the new mount I installed just a couple of months ago and the way it should look if it’s ok.....notice the gap between the sides of the rubber portion of the mount and the metal part.
I did a coolant flush on my last car, which has been several years ago now......seems like there is a coolant drain bolt on the back side of the block beneath the exhaust header, but I can’t tell you for sure where it is. I do remember it was a bit tricky to reach and I used a long handled wrench to access it.
On the engine mount, the thing to look for is if there’s a gap between the rubber “pad” and the metal canister portion of the mount. If the rubber is resting on the top of the metal portion, the mount is dead and the fluid has likely leaked out long ago. Here’s a picture of the new mount I installed just a couple of months ago and the way it should look if it’s ok.....notice the gap between the sides of the rubber portion of the mount and the metal part.
#17
Air filter removed - pretty filthy - notice the missing jubilee clip on intake pipe
Airbox removal
Needs a good clean
Front of the engine block was caked in oil and sand mixture - obscuring a connector for some kind of sensor on the front of block
Good brush down with Qatar's finest 95 octane gasoline
Also took the dipstick tube off to remove the remains of the broken dipstick - but nothing found inside
Ok all clean - exposing the rusty block - can't win !!
Dipstick tube back in place - can anyone tell me what this connector plug is for ??
Airbox removal
Needs a good clean
Front of the engine block was caked in oil and sand mixture - obscuring a connector for some kind of sensor on the front of block
Good brush down with Qatar's finest 95 octane gasoline
Also took the dipstick tube off to remove the remains of the broken dipstick - but nothing found inside
Ok all clean - exposing the rusty block - can't win !!
Dipstick tube back in place - can anyone tell me what this connector plug is for ??
#18
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QatarJCWR53 (09-02-2018)
#20
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QatarJCWR53 (09-02-2018)
#21
Beautiful MINI. Glad your giving it some TLC.
I just went through pretty much all the repair your working on so I'll give you my newbie info -
- The sensor in the front of the engine is your crankshaft position sensor. Definitely replace the o-ring seal on it. It is the source of the oily mess in the front of your block.
- Your power steering return and feed hoses are leaking. Replace them both. That is why your PS pump is all wet
- Cheap insurance, replace the power steering pump fan. New version has a small box on the rear flange inline with the plug. This is a thermal overload protector that might save your car from a fiery doom.
- I haven't had problems with CV boots yet, but I recall hearing that it is typically best to replace complete axle assy
- Make the investment in jack stands. Loose cinder blocks fail without warning and will drop the car on you (or your helpers)
-Craven Speed makes a greatly improved (but $$) dipstick
Keep the pictures coming!
I just went through pretty much all the repair your working on so I'll give you my newbie info -
- The sensor in the front of the engine is your crankshaft position sensor. Definitely replace the o-ring seal on it. It is the source of the oily mess in the front of your block.
- Your power steering return and feed hoses are leaking. Replace them both. That is why your PS pump is all wet
- Cheap insurance, replace the power steering pump fan. New version has a small box on the rear flange inline with the plug. This is a thermal overload protector that might save your car from a fiery doom.
- I haven't had problems with CV boots yet, but I recall hearing that it is typically best to replace complete axle assy
- Make the investment in jack stands. Loose cinder blocks fail without warning and will drop the car on you (or your helpers)
-Craven Speed makes a greatly improved (but $$) dipstick
Keep the pictures coming!
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QatarJCWR53 (09-02-2018)
#22
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QatarJCWR53 (09-02-2018)
#23
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QatarJCWR53 (09-02-2018)
#24
Thanks - I found an OEM dipstick on eBay which I will go with for now - I read somewhere that there is a right way to extract the dipstick but most people do it the wrong way - or is that BMW created PR - could it be that twisting it as you remove it and replace it might help ??
#25
Beautiful MINI. Glad your giving it some TLC.
I just went through pretty much all the repair your working on so I'll give you my newbie info -
- The sensor in the front of the engine is your crankshaft position sensor. Definitely replace the o-ring seal on it. It is the source of the oily mess in the front of your block.
- Your power steering return and feed hoses are leaking. Replace them both. That is why your PS pump is all wet
- Cheap insurance, replace the power steering pump fan. New version has a small box on the rear flange inline with the plug. This is a thermal overload protector that might save your car from a fiery doom.
- I haven't had problems with CV boots yet, but I recall hearing that it is typically best to replace complete axle assy
- Make the investment in jack stands. Loose cinder blocks fail without warning and will drop the car on you (or your helpers)
-Craven Speed makes a greatly improved (but $$) dipstick
Keep the pictures coming!
I just went through pretty much all the repair your working on so I'll give you my newbie info -
- The sensor in the front of the engine is your crankshaft position sensor. Definitely replace the o-ring seal on it. It is the source of the oily mess in the front of your block.
- Your power steering return and feed hoses are leaking. Replace them both. That is why your PS pump is all wet
- Cheap insurance, replace the power steering pump fan. New version has a small box on the rear flange inline with the plug. This is a thermal overload protector that might save your car from a fiery doom.
- I haven't had problems with CV boots yet, but I recall hearing that it is typically best to replace complete axle assy
- Make the investment in jack stands. Loose cinder blocks fail without warning and will drop the car on you (or your helpers)
-Craven Speed makes a greatly improved (but $$) dipstick
Keep the pictures coming!
What was the reason your PS return and feeder hoses failed ? Is it the rubber that perishes or something else ? Is it an easy job to replace them ?
With the newer PS Pump fan, do you know which year they were introduced ? Is it a BMW only part or is there after market supply ?
Yes need to get jack stands