R50/53 Broken Valve Spring
#1
Broken Valve Spring
Finally got around to installing the RMW dominator cam on my 2006 JCW. I took off the valve cover and discovered a broken intake valve spring on cylinder 2. It could have been broken for awhile or more recent. I have 84K on it. I have been tracking it and have not noticed a loss of power. I'm planning on just replacing that spring without pulling the head. Should i pull the head and do all of them?
If I do just the one, can anyone recommend a valve spring tool that will work? It's super tight in there?
If I do just the one, can anyone recommend a valve spring tool that will work? It's super tight in there?
#2
#3
Finally got around to installing the RMW dominator cam on my 2006 JCW. I took off the valve cover and discovered a broken intake valve spring on cylinder 2. It could have been broken for awhile or more recent. I have 84K on it. I have been tracking it and have not noticed a loss of power. I'm planning on just replacing that spring without pulling the head. Should i pull the head and do all of them?
If I do just the one, can anyone recommend a valve spring tool that will work? It's super tight in there?
If I do just the one, can anyone recommend a valve spring tool that will work? It's super tight in there?
If you try to avoid pulling the head, it might be a good idea do a compression test first to see if the valve have been seating poorly. Good it is on a intake valve rather than exhaust that is a lot hotter. I would do a test before and after to gauge the health of that valve, guide, and seat.
#4
Reading a lot of posts, it seems broken valve spring is rather common with R53s. Pulling the head is a lot more work and expense. The up side is you can replace all the valve guide seals much easier.
If you try to avoid pulling the head, it might be a good idea do a compression test first to see if the valve have been seating poorly. Good it is on a intake valve rather than exhaust that is a lot hotter. I would do a test before and after to gauge the health of that valve, guide, and seat.
If you try to avoid pulling the head, it might be a good idea do a compression test first to see if the valve have been seating poorly. Good it is on a intake valve rather than exhaust that is a lot hotter. I would do a test before and after to gauge the health of that valve, guide, and seat.
I think I will put in a new spring in without pulling the head. Check the compression and do more work if necessary.
#7
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I'm going to tell myself that it was just a bad one in a batch. Maybe in the fall I'll take it apart...
#12
#13
If I ever find a broken valve spring in my engine, they will all be replaced, as they were manufactured at the same time and the heat treatment and draw back (temper), could be flawed. One broken spring is a warning sign!
Yeah, it is a bummer, but you need to deal with it or not!
Itsme Wayne a Retired tool and die maker, with much heat treating experience.
Last edited by ItsmeWayne; 05-27-2018 at 08:35 AM.
#14
Itsme Wayne a Retired tool and die maker, with much heat treating experience.
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