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Stock Problems/IssuesDiscussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.
Well I know 130 is the minimum to aim for. But I also know that variance is a pretty big part of compression tests. I'm not too worried about it because, while I warmed up the car beforehand, it probably cooled off enough to skew the numbers by the time I got the plugs out and everything - only 40* in Chicago. The consistency is what I was looking for, but I'll be taking it for a leakdown this week regardless.
Talked to my mechanic today about a leakdown. He said he would use a borescope to check the valve stem seals, first. Ordered a $15 inspection camera from Amazon. Will be here Thursday.
Sorry this has taken so long. I got the camera a while ago but never went to go check it... I finally mustered the energy and the verdict is......
Blown head gasket at minimum. I couldn't get the mirror in there so I couldn't check to see if there was a leak in the valve seal. In any case, the gasket needs to be replaced so I can have a look when I get in there. Need to figure out what to do here. Never done a head gasket before, but I'm not about to drop $1500+ on this car to have it done. Might just end up selling it. Shame because it's a fun little car, nothing but issues, though.
After some thinking, I'm going to do the head gasket myself and hope and pray that I don't have any warping issues. I've been driving the car for a few thousand miles and the temp has always been fine, so got my fingers crossed. I'll probably need at least 1 valve guide for cylinder 1. Anything else I should do while I'm there? I'll be doing this on a budget, but done right, still.
Since the HG is bad and all compression numbers were low, would that indicate that the head is more likely to be warped or just my testing it not at a warm enough temp?
After some thinking, I'm going to do the head gasket myself and hope and pray that I don't have any warping issues. I've been driving the car for a few thousand miles and the temp has always been fine, so got my fingers crossed. I'll probably need at least 1 valve guide for cylinder 1. Anything else I should do while I'm there? I'll be doing this on a budget, but done right, still.
Since the HG is bad and all compression numbers were low, would that indicate that the head is more likely to be warped or just my testing it not at a warm enough temp?
I don't know if you have a high school or college in your area w/ an auto shop program in your area, but this can be a good way to get work done on a budget (read cheap or free) but still have insured labor. The kids also appreciate getting to work on a fun car, not just the average rust bucket coming through so they can do yet another oil change.
Just my $.02... and, WAIT, one of these is just a copper plug from the end of an AC line!
Also - with compression numbers so similar, does anybody think it's a burnt valve or just a bad valve stem seal? Trying to put together a parts list....
So far I have:
Cam Sprocket bolt - 07137829910
Head Gasket - 11127508544
Intake Manifold Gasket - 11611173671
Exhaust Manifold Gasket - 11621174968
Head Bolts - 07131487226
Valve Cover Gasket - 11121485838
Valve Stem Seal - 11340029571 - To hopefully address the oil in cylinder 1
Exhaust Valve - 11347513024 - Went with aftermarket because it's just a precautionary thing as compression numbers were all fairly consistent.
Head is confirmed cracked from the machine shop. Sigh. Should I pay for the repair or should I look into a new one? I found a JCW head from CA with a 90 day warranty for $500... Could be a viable direction?
From a remote junk yard. Listed as "A" condition which says either under 60k miles or under 200k and also <15k/year. I guess I'll inquire about it. Can't hurt. The warranty makes it fairly risk free as long as they stand by it.
Indeed. But the car has 145k on it... From what I can tell that's quite a bit higher than most. I'd have it inspected and all before I put it on, and the rest you can't really plan for. I did inquire so I'll update when I hear.
Do you have any opinion on repairing heads? I'm sure there's plenty that are just fine, but there's also plenty of horror stories that are causing me anxiety with this.
Shop said I have 3 cracks in my head which makes it a little expensive to fix. At that point I may as well get something refurb'd. I contacted Way, but they only have new and at $1600, that's also a little expensive. Anybody have any idea where to find a decent used head? The one from car-part.com was apparently listed wrong and is for a justa.
Due to having a cracked head, I can't use it as a core for most places. That brings the cost up to around $2k which I'm just not willing to pay. I ended up buying a good used head from allmag so I'll take it to a local shop and get it all worked over. All in all right around $600 and a local place I can go to if I have any problems.
So I've now put on a fresh head and still not getting the economy that makes me think everything is fine. I've also replaced the fuel filter which was terrible. What else could be causing this? The only thing that hasn't been addressed is injectors, but exhaust isn't sooty at all. Doesn't seem to be rich, but I guess I should get them cleaned and flowed anyway. Just to eliminate it... other than that I'm clueless. Totally stumped.
Rest of the lower bumper looks clean, but the inside of the tips have a lot of carbon caked on.
My son just left so I can't snap a pic of his car, but will tomorrow am. His car was washed about 8 days ago so that will show a week or so of dirt and whatever has come out of the exhaust.
Used dawn, an SOS pad, and grill/oven cleaner.... Still black. They must've been anodized/ceramic coated from the manufacturer. Sigh. I feel like I should take it to a shop to diagnose if it's really running rich or fine.
03-27-2017, 05:25 PM
