R50/53 Help
#26
I'm hoping it will help with a new jack. I centered the clutch the best I could by eye and the centering tool but I could be a little off. I have a jack under the motor to lift up and down as I've tryed that to help with different angles. What's the best way to line the tranny up to the motor before pushing it on? Guide pins in the holes? I don't wanna start pushing the tranny if the input shaft is gunna it something and cause more damage
#28
Okay that's how I'm doing it. Yes I have the centering tool that came with the kit which I've noticed doesn't really do much. I may actually take off the driver side suspension completely. Taking the shock and break assembly would free up alot more room to work and look around. I already have the inner liner off. What's the best way to get the rotation of the trans correct? It seems like I can get the bottom of the trans lined up with the bolt holes but I can't pick the whole trans up and rotate it around to line the rest up and side it in. It's just fighting me the whole way no matter what I do.
If you can't get it and have completely exhausted your arms, I'll tell you plan B. Don't let it get to plan B, dammit.
#29
Yeah I don't think 300 is enough either but it was either that or nothing at all so I took what I could. At least it paid for most of the clutch and I'm only out my time and a few other little pieces. But I've gained a lot more knowledge so I can't complain there. OK cool thanks the reassuring it's fine cuz I wasn't sure if it would need to be replaced or not. OK I'll have to pick one if those up to on Friday. Anything else I should make sure isn't worn to bad?
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#30
#31
^Don't bother to take all that stuff apart. You'll get it. Make sure the trans is in neutral. You'll have to re-check as you shake the box around--sometimes it slips into gear when it touches other stuff. Don't worry about bolt holes until you hit pay dirt with the splined shaft. The bolt holes will take care of themselves. Get it lined up, and shake that sucker in. Don't give up.
If you can't get it and have completely exhausted your arms, I'll tell you plan B. Don't let it get to plan B, dammit.
If you can't get it and have completely exhausted your arms, I'll tell you plan B. Don't let it get to plan B, dammit.
#33
She can't lift enough to help much. If I can't get it with the new jack I'll call someone to help lift and such. So what's the best way to line up the input shaft with the clutch? I've been using bolt holes but that's proving to be difficult on its own
#34
Im sorry, I can't remember what exactly I used to make sure it was lined up. I've done maybe 100 clutches on stealths and 3000 gts, but only my Mini last june.
You just need to look at all of it, from the front and the side, make sure the angle of the tranny matches the angle of the engine. Maybe helix has more detailed advice but that's really all there is too it.
You just need to look at all of it, from the front and the side, make sure the angle of the tranny matches the angle of the engine. Maybe helix has more detailed advice but that's really all there is too it.
#35
Im sorry, I can't remember what exactly I used to make sure it was lined up. I've done maybe 100 clutches on stealths and 3000 gts, but only my Mini last june.
You just need to look at all of it, from the front and the side, make sure the angle of the tranny matches the angle of the engine. Maybe helix has more detailed advice but that's really all there is too it.
You just need to look at all of it, from the front and the side, make sure the angle of the tranny matches the angle of the engine. Maybe helix has more detailed advice but that's really all there is too it.
#36
You've gotten plenty of good advice. I'll add my encouragement: You can do this. Just a couple tips that might help. I too have done several clutches with less than ideal tools and found 2 things helped:
1. Modify your jack by adding a small piece of plywood. I removed the jack saddle and found I could slide a 1 - 1.5" piece of flat aluminum under the jack saddle. I had maybe a 10" square piece of plywood that I bolted to the aluminum with some carriage bolts so it was mostly smooth on top. I added a packing strap to hold the transmission on the jack/plywood platform. The tranny was not super tight with the jack, but the jack managed most of the weight and the tranny could be maneuvered to mate up.
2. Angle the engine down a bit toward the tranny and the tranny balanced on the jack so that it angle up slightly.
The angles were not severe and I don't know how you are supporting the engine, but the slight angles seemed to help.
1. Modify your jack by adding a small piece of plywood. I removed the jack saddle and found I could slide a 1 - 1.5" piece of flat aluminum under the jack saddle. I had maybe a 10" square piece of plywood that I bolted to the aluminum with some carriage bolts so it was mostly smooth on top. I added a packing strap to hold the transmission on the jack/plywood platform. The tranny was not super tight with the jack, but the jack managed most of the weight and the tranny could be maneuvered to mate up.
2. Angle the engine down a bit toward the tranny and the tranny balanced on the jack so that it angle up slightly.
The angles were not severe and I don't know how you are supporting the engine, but the slight angles seemed to help.
#37
You've gotten plenty of good advice. I'll add my encouragement: You can do this. Just a couple tips that might help. I too have done several clutches with less than ideal tools and found 2 things helped:
1. Modify your jack by adding a small piece of plywood. I removed the jack saddle and found I could slide a 1 - 1.5" piece of flat aluminum under the jack saddle. I had maybe a 10" square piece of plywood that I bolted to the aluminum with some carriage bolts so it was mostly smooth on top. I added a packing strap to hold the transmission on the jack/plywood platform. The tranny was not super tight with the jack, but the jack managed most of the weight and the tranny could be maneuvered to mate up.
2. Angle the engine down a bit toward the tranny and the tranny balanced on the jack so that it angle up slightly.
The angles were not severe and I don't know how you are supporting the engine, but the slight angles seemed to help.
1. Modify your jack by adding a small piece of plywood. I removed the jack saddle and found I could slide a 1 - 1.5" piece of flat aluminum under the jack saddle. I had maybe a 10" square piece of plywood that I bolted to the aluminum with some carriage bolts so it was mostly smooth on top. I added a packing strap to hold the transmission on the jack/plywood platform. The tranny was not super tight with the jack, but the jack managed most of the weight and the tranny could be maneuvered to mate up.
2. Angle the engine down a bit toward the tranny and the tranny balanced on the jack so that it angle up slightly.
The angles were not severe and I don't know how you are supporting the engine, but the slight angles seemed to help.
#38
OK guys this is what I got going on. Im getting the jack tommrow cuz harbor freight is having a sale. So I may tinker with it a little bit tonight if you guys can give some good tips as to what I'm doing wrong. The clutch seems to be a little off center but I can't get my fingers in there to feel around. Any good ways to keep it on center?
#39
OK guys this is what I got going on. Im getting the jack tommrow cuz harbor freight is having a sale. So I may tinker with it a little bit tonight if you guys can give some good tips as to what I'm doing wrong. The clutch seems to be a little off center but I can't get my fingers in there to feel around. Any good ways to keep it on center?
#42
Finally got it guys. Went ahead and got a tranny jack tonight and it made life a whole lot easier. It only took about 15 20 min. Minis about half put back together gunna through the sub frame in and hook the rest of the drive train up and make sure the clutch and trans is working as it should. So happy right now. Finally get my mini back!!!! Yaaayyyyy
#43
Cool, glad you got on this time. Great feeling when it slides in there lol
One thing I have to comment on though is the removal of the intercooler. Mod mini takes it off in his video, and from the pictures you took yours off too. Can't figure out why though, it's not in the way of anything. Ehh whatever...
Don't forget to take it easy on your new clutch.
One thing I have to comment on though is the removal of the intercooler. Mod mini takes it off in his video, and from the pictures you took yours off too. Can't figure out why though, it's not in the way of anything. Ehh whatever...
Don't forget to take it easy on your new clutch.
#44
Cool, glad you got on this time. Great feeling when it slides in there lol
One thing I have to comment on though is the removal of the intercooler. Mod mini takes it off in his video, and from the pictures you took yours off too. Can't figure out why though, it's not in the way of anything. Ehh whatever...
Don't forget to take it easy on your new clutch.
One thing I have to comment on though is the removal of the intercooler. Mod mini takes it off in his video, and from the pictures you took yours off too. Can't figure out why though, it's not in the way of anything. Ehh whatever...
Don't forget to take it easy on your new clutch.
I fallowed his video since it was my first time ever working on a mini and doing a clutch. I found myself hanging it on the radiator mounting points/bumper mounts to get it out of the way depending on what I was working on so I didn't damage it or anything. It's a reallllyyyyyyy annoying piece.
I will definitely be taking it easy. Is there a clutch break in period? How do you do it?
#45
#46
Okay cool. I already know it's going to be a completely different car now since I imagine when I got it the clutch was already gone. I might go ahead and do a supercharger oil change and a oil change while I'm already at it. Any recommendations on oil? If I go synthetic how long should I let the oil drain out since I have no idea what oil is in it now....
#48
#49
You don't need to wait any longer than that.
#50
Run the car for about 10 minutes or so to get it and the oil warm, turn off car (I put that in there in case you are a literal fellow), release drain plug, drain it....release the oil filter canister and more will drain out...remove oil filter canister. Go get a soda or lunch - come back an hour later and just about everything you can get out will be out. It's okay if some is left in there - it won't be much.
You don't need to wait any longer than that.
You don't need to wait any longer than that.