R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006) Cooper (R50) and Cooper S (R53) hatchback discussion.

R50/53 Oil Changes - Topside Method?

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Old 10-24-2015, 07:43 PM
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Oil Changes - Topside Method?



I can see the advantages of using the "topside" method. Any of you folks do this? Is this video spot-on?


Thanks
 
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Old 10-25-2015, 07:44 AM
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I was interested in trying this, but the normal way was fine for me =)
 
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Old 10-25-2015, 08:45 PM
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IMO sediment and sludge settle to the bottom, then flow out when the drain plug is removed. Can't see it's worth the risk for every 15K miles.
 
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Old 10-25-2015, 09:44 PM
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I have a topsider and I used to do my oil changes like this. I don't think it's bad, but it does leave about half a quart in there and it takes a while. I pretty much went back to draining it through the drain plug, but sometimes I'll pull the majority out with the topsider and then the rest through the bottom, less pressure when it comes out and less chance of a mess.

If you want to simplify oil changes, I think a fumoto valve is a better investment.
 
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Old 10-26-2015, 06:00 AM
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I strongly recommend changing the oil the way that it was intended to be changed. By 'vacuuming' it out, you don't drain all of oil and particulate matter that's at the bottom of the pan. It's not that much more work to do the job right.
 
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Old 10-26-2015, 08:11 AM
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I did this yesterday in the shop and it worked great.
Hooked the airline up to the vacuum and let it go for about 7 mins. sucked out just over 4.5 quarts and refilled with redline. Worked great; just make sure you crack the filter before starting.
 
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Old 10-26-2015, 09:27 AM
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I use this for the inbetween changes on the wifes 2012 that says 15K interval is OK, my **** it is. SO at 7.5K I suck it out and replace with new, then at the 15K mark goes into MINI for the filter and oil change.
 
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Old 10-26-2015, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Helix13mini
I strongly recommend changing the oil the way that it was intended to be changed. By 'vacuuming' it out, you don't drain all of oil and particulate matter that's at the bottom of the pan. It's not that much more work to do the job right.
This

Buy a floor jack and a couple jack stands instead of a pump
 
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Old 10-26-2015, 01:02 PM
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I understand the thought that you can't give a 'good' flush to the oil pan but stop and consider that by far the majority of people owning inboard boats have to come in from the top to change the oil. It can't be that bad. It's likely that what little sediment accumulates at the bottom of the oil pan will simply stay there.
 
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Old 10-26-2015, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by whaap
I understand the thought that you can't give a 'good' flush to the oil pan but stop and consider that by far the majority of people owning inboard boats have to come in from the top to change the oil. It can't be that bad. It's likely that what little sediment accumulates at the bottom of the oil pan will simply stay there.
that's why I have one, used to own a boat. Works great for all fluids, I suck out the brake fluid as well, I know it's not the same but by replacing 90% of fluid it can't hurt. As it goes dilution is the solution, by replacing a good chunk of the fluids you are diluting the bad stuff.
 
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Old 10-27-2015, 12:35 PM
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I had an 03 Passat that was lowered (Bilsteins/H&R) and the huge air deflector underneath was such a pain to remove (20+ screws) that it was a common thing to go with the Mighty vac. Worked great for the 75K miles before I had to sell her.



To each his/her own, I guess.
 
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