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SPC rear lower adjustable arms can be used on the top also. But if you have xenon , the auto levelers are there and they will need to be somehow mounted, unless you took them out because you are lowered anyway.
My auto leveler was in....but it's toast now....upper and lower arms are bent...still waiting to find if the mounts themself bent I was told if they are...they will total the car...the wheel is no longer true I'm finding as well
Thanks ECS looks like I'll be adding the SPC kit....I if it is totaled...ill probably just go billet trailing arms as well since there is no way I'll be driving it for a month minimum.
It's going to work out...
And my wife is thumbs up!
GP1 is where I'm headed. Just because of that 2lbs
We dropped 4lbs after air install
All of the replacement camber arms will be alloy
+GP1 arms
That's quite a bit of weight dropped in the area you want!
Only thing I'm left questioning is if I remove my rear sensor...would I have to convert to non leveling hid? My concern stems from some aftermarket companies making halogen projectors and me getting stuck with something that can't handle the heart from xenon power.
Some of the adds are so ambiguous as to what the light can do or what its rated for.
On the headlights sensor on the rear you could find the center point , then make a new mount location and measure the distance travel up and down. The set it center as a work around.
Or get the helix / depo headlight, Manual level adjusment and convert to xenon.
On the headlights sensor on the rear you could find the center point , then make a new mount location and measure the distance travel up and down. The set it center as a work around.
Or get the helix / depo headlight, Manual level adjusment and convert to xenon.
Thanks again! I owe you a brew!
Looks like I'll go with option 2.....
The sensor is done....I really don't need the auto level mess on my hands anyway. Plus that conversion looks like a fun in my living room kind of project.
No matter what the outcome is on the mounts being bent....and being repaired...ditching the sensor will save her a couple bucks...
And it's going to cost me more
But
I think my judgement is clouded by the fact I've always wanted black housings....
Sorry you got tapped, but glad your okay. Those OEM lights are so awesome. I really doubt anything you get will be better. Just search for the joey mod on here and black out the housings and keep the lights you have. I have even seen them color matched. Here's a nice example:
Sorry you got tapped, but glad your okay. Those OEM lights are so awesome. I really doubt anything you get will be better. Just search for the joey mod on here and black out the housings and keep the lights you have. I have even seen them color matched
Ahhh so wise
It's true they are....
Truth be told I've saved all of the oem parts I've removed and I plan to refurbish them. I do one day want to put this car back the way it was many years from now. Another thought I had about the lights is id love for them to stay the way they are now and enjoy my cross country exploits with a nice replacement pair....I think I'm just being overly particular
Last edited by Spencer Roper; Sep 16, 2015 at 10:46 AM.
Update
Took it into a laser alignment establishment yesterday.
The News is.....only the trailing arm bent. The sensor is salvageable so I will keep my beautiful xenon lights for now.
My dilemma lies with this thought
Is it really time to go aluminum arms or do I want to sort out my other lists first. I'm not exactly sure just how fast I can get the GP1 arms but I have a week to decide to have the alignment shop replace it on the person who's responsible for the accident money. Or I take it home and do the aluminum for the extra money and time involved.
Needless to say I'm busy and not much is moving forward with the MINI.
Hopefully I can get this beauty on the road again within two weeks...those New wheels are just screaming to be put on!
just a thought, I believe the trailing arms for the r56 and the gp1 are nearly identical
I'm aware that they are pretty close
But the -2 extra lbs is what I'm looking for if I'm going to do a trailing arm job.
This isn't a financial dilemma....I'm just trying to figure out how long anyone had waited on shipping for GP1 trailing arms
Update.
Well I've been trying to find some places that can get me GP 1 arms within a reasonable amount of time..but it looks like I'm going to have to wait a bit.
The vendors are mostly euro vendors and they also offer the GP intercooler. So having found out all this......I've decided what I'm going to do.
I ordered GP1 goodies...including inserts! But it's gon be a bit.
So then...
I ordered a used trailing arm to get my car going.
At that time SPC upper and lower arms will be installed just to make the look underneath uniform.
When phase two starts I will add the aluminum arms, IC and all the other items I have and plan to order.
Were shooting for the Mini being operational next week!
There is more to come...I just need the hang ups to stop.
Low that's low, yep the fender flares / liners are going to rub and pop out if they get bumped, will need to attention
Keep us posted.
The driver side popped out already!....first time I aired down yesterday
I bought two new ones from a friend of mine who.ended up.not using them for his mini
The fender arches have a weird 90° angle on the side closest to the tire. I'm going to start by removing that and removing.my fender liners.
I plan to affix a form fitted plexi cover to underside of hood to keep debris out while I'm travelling with the wheels tucked in the fenders during low cruise runs
The driver side popped out already!....first time I aired down yesterday
I bought two new ones from a friend of mine who.ended up.not using them for his mini
The fender arches have a weird 90° angle on the side closest to the tire. I'm going to start by removing that and removing.my fender liners.
I plan to affix a form fitted plexi cover to underside of hood to keep debris out while I'm travelling with the wheels tucked in the fenders during low cruise runs
You will have to shave that plastic back and depending on how close might need for metal fender bending. Good luck.
Siiick! Looks so good and those wheels fit much better. Very euro style. You should black out the chrome around your headlights!
Thank you very much!
I have the gloss black trim ring assemblies that just clip in place of the chrome ones. I'm going to out them on once I finish up laying frame!
Update!
I did some fender work on Friday and wanted to share the beginning parts of getting the Mini EVEN LOWER!
First I will say this....
The advantage of me shortening the strut boils down to two things.
I'm running 27psi now when I'm at my lowest (4 wheels tucked inside fender well while in motion). If I shorten the strut I can run I higher pressure and firm up the ride a bit more and make sure I have adequate resistance against pushing my tire into the sheet metal dwelling inside the plastic arches.
The second one is my car can go lower as I have clearanced some room now but the cars air strut bottoms out with room to spare for the wheel to travel inward. There is a threaded adjustment on every strut body that will allow me to dail the car in to its lowest physical point possible when aired out.
I started with the fender liners up front
I used a hook razor and traced down the liner
I noticed I have about 6" of room for the tire to keep moving when the strut bottomed out
Next I clearence cut the arches up front with a hook razor
I cut the inner most lip and tapered a flare out at the end of each arch to blend into the uncut sections of the lower arches
After that I did the same to.the rear sections
The wheel tucks even further now!
Next I'm.going to cut the metal behind the arches all the way up to the mount holes for the arches and shorten up the struts.
Hopefully front and rear tires will be fully tucked and we're almost laying frame
More to come
Last edited by Spencer Roper; Oct 5, 2015 at 06:29 AM.
