Just my opinion.......

If you go with FSD's....don't run any kind of lowered springs...JCW included.

Yes, I think FSD's are going to be better than factory JCW shocks.

NO...IE camber plates are not a must. But if your oem mounts are trashed out, replace them with something beefier....like the IE camber plates (they replace the oem mounts) or any of the other brands of upper mounts out there.

I have the IE camber plates, and I like them....for the price, they are nice.

 

Thanks for the reply. But I remember as Mini specs, if you run 18" wheels, you need to lower your car by 1". So that's why JCW suspension is suggested to go with JCW wheels.

This is what I know and what makes me worried on handling. And, why FSDs dont run with the 1" lowered springs? What if the car has factory JCW springs? No FSDs?

 

This doesn't make any sense.
There's no reason to have to lower the suspension for 18" wheels, and
JCW springs only lower the suspension by about 1/2 inch, anyway.


FSD springs don't work well near the bottom of their suspension travel, so
lowering them reduces their effectiveness and their lifespan and their warranty.


This applies mainly to the MINI. Koni does sell FSD sets for other makes and
models that are ok for mild lowering.


Official Koni line is that FSD shouldn't be used with JCW springs, but they're close
enough to stock that some people do anyway with mostly reasonable results.

 

Thanks a lot Cristo for your input. I always had the feeling that I needed JCW springs with my GP wheels.

I will stick with OEM MCS springs. I have just ordered KONI FSDs and on my way to order IE camber plates :D.

 

Man, this thread really took off! Just wanted to chime in & say that my suspension is totally DONE and I just got my alignment done yesterday! The final shopping list ended up being:

Koni FSD's (from MotoringWerks, $523)
I.E. Camber Plates
Lemforder rear suspension bushings
Lemforder pass. front bump stop
Powerflex Control Arm Bushings

Since I went with the FSD/I.E. combo, I knew the front would ride high so I went ahead & cut down the brackets by 1/4" before installing & sure enough, the front & rear look to be identical heights! Also, I wanted to say that while the FSD's did make a huge difference in ride quality, I would say that the Powerflex CAB's made the biggest difference in drivability. The whole front end is so much more predictable & so much less jiggly, it's crazy. All in all, this is my favorite suspension setup I've ever had on any car & I'm gonna have to have a reeeeeeeaaaaaallllyyy good reason to change anything on it ever

 

Why would you say the fronts would ride high? You are using FSDs on both fronts and rears and it should keep everything balanced. Or are you pointing that R53s are designed with fronts higher? I'm worried that FSD/IE combo would change ride height. Because this is definitely something I wouldn't want using my stock R53 springs.

 

IE fixes camber plates raise the front by a whopping 1/4". Nothing to worry about.

 

Doesnt affect handling? Which brackets I would need to cut down by 1/4'?

 

The IE camber plates are thicker than the OEM mounts....so they raise the front end around 1/4" ..maybe a little less. Can you tell by looking at it? I could.....so I trimmed a little material off of the lower FSD front strut mount that bottoms out on the hub where the shock mounts. This allowed the shock to drop down 1/4" deeper....compensating for the thicker IE plate/mount. I'm sure there are plenty of people that just install the IE camber plates and move on...and they are perfectly happy, and never notice the very slight rise in the front of the car.

Either way...make you sure you get a front end alignment after the new fsd's and camber plates.

 

This is basically the same setup I am looking to run on my 2006 r53 with 126k on original suspension. I hope to get a MUCH better ride out of it. And I am glad that you like the setup, ride, etc! I think I will just install though and not trim the 1/4" off but thats just me. Did you do ball joints at all?

 

Received my KONIs today and also IE camber plates. Can you guys tell me which part or which brackets I should cut down the brackets by 1/4" before installing? Pictures if you guys could help?

 

Still curious if anyone had to replace anything else besides the shocks, and plates. Ball joints anyone?

 

It's a good review for Koni FSD's here, but I can see the camber plates may be in use to remedy or strengthen the top mount from distortion, but is the additional camber change deliberate for all fitting them?

There are other top mounts or braces that fit above which serve a similar purpose are there not? My point is one seems to be following another here, then cutting the bracket down on a damper which is brand new and then devoid of warranty, so why not leave the new height, or use another solution?

I changed my top mounts to a slightly thicker one with a better sealed bearing, which has a polybush sandwiched between the top plate and lower plate. It is actually lower than standard by 3mm or so, and I used washers to space to a standard height. I have Sports Plus which is slightly lower it seems, so didn't want any lower when only working on the front.


It is better than standard, and that initial damper motion is now no longer soaked up in the rubber mount but transmitted into the damper. I see the IE mounts still have what looks like a long travel bush installed, are they as compliant as OE ones?

 

What plates are those pictured? Are the others ones the stock ones they look really bad!!

 

Any help please?

 

My replacement mounts were borrowed from this kit, I added to this particular set, the alternative rear pillow ball mounts if I didn't want to use the standard ones, plus an 'alternative' standard type front top mount if I didn't want to use the adjustable pillow ball ones shown fitted.


Yes that is an original standard one, which has a partially split bush. It was creaking near full right lock, even at 27k only two years ago, and I meant to look at it some time, then after not using the car for a while after surgery recently (then 37k), I noticed it was worse, and pulled it apart, and was actually going to fit standard ones, then had an idea........I had my coilover kit I use to show people still, so.........


They are made for me in Taiwan, not particularly cheap, but it matters little, I like them. I don't talk about them generally, just showed for this thread, but they have been used successfully on drift, or race cars more. Most people on all forums slate any imported stuff in favour of names other people talk about, (despite the fact it comes from Asia anyway perhaps), or what they have on their car, because that's always best right? Then some stuff gets slated on the back of incorrect use or fitment too doesn't it.


Anyway, there is a positive difference to the front end which is still totally standard on this car, just because of a better bearing and polybush there.


I am expecting to fit this kit now, (I advertised it but... as above) so I just want to sort out a wheel stud conversion and relative spacers for these wheels, and waiting for some reducers to go on the rear pillow ball mounts, unfortunately missing when the mounts were sent individually.


My car has Sports Plus on it anyway, and with 215/45R17W tyres is alright


Lowering the ones you have if you really want to do it as other have, is just reducing the size of the plate that hits the hub carrier on installation, which lets the damper drop in further, but I'd personally avoid that and keep the warranty intact on the dearer parts. Then use a different mount.

 

Thanks for the explanation. You have a nice looking MINI. I am going to stick with the FSDs but I like your setup!

 

Thanks, trying to keep it looking standard, tyres aren't too obvious, Refitted the standard catback too, but the manifold, cam, I/C, pulley, injectors, wideband, BytetroniK, JCW airbox, and things like the suspension and LSD are all out of sight aren't they :-) Head, pistons, rods, flywheel, other top end mods, mounts, gears, all may come sometime haha, that's if it's not sold first.


Don't get me wrong, I wasn't suggesting you don't use the FSD's, just maybe different top mounts for those who're talking about hacking new parts about.


Only my2p

 

Cool, yea I understand what you meant. Motor on!

 

I just went through the shock/spring/cc plate replacement on my 2006 (85k miles) and the control arm bushings in the front of mine do need to be replaced (small tear on both sides). Ball joints were all fine and rear everything was fine.

I will probably go ahead and do all the front ball joints anyway when I do the bushings.

 

Yeah I don't know how but I am in the same boat as you but have 128k on mine. ITS TIME I REPLACE !!! I am going to go with the new ball joints as well anything else I should replace while I am in there??