Stock R53s can be between 10.5 and 10.0/1 at red line.

 

Ok...that makes me feel a little better knowing that im not running richer than the stock S's.

I sure wish there was good software out there that would let me tune my own motor......its frustrating knowing what you want, but the only option you have is to trust in someone else to tune it for you.

Anyone make an adjustable fuel pressure regulator?

 

That was going to be a suggestion to you. Stock tune, stock injectors and a very small bump in fuel pressure. It's a Band-Aid fix, but it'd work for adding a tad more fuel. Again, it's a total band aid solution. Aeromotive's universal AFPR would work.

Some quick reading: http://www.mini2.com/forum/first-gen...r-testing.html

 

I never knew how rich our motors actually ran, although I am surprised on the lack of soot deposited when running my car... the only thing I could think of is the heat from the supercharger and needing the fuel to keep cylinder temps down?


an adjustable fuel reg could help you get afr down, but you would have to drop the pressure =(

 

Raising fuel pressure will supply more fuel and within reason, run richer. The ECU is still going to trim fuel in closed loop driving (generally fine, but not perfect as you want some control over "tip-in enrichment"), based on it's programming. That's why this is a band-aid and actual live tuning is the answer.

Also, raising fuel pressure will reduce your fuel pumps flow capacity. Kind of a double-edged sword here, folks. Generally, when people bump fuel pressure higher and run really big injectors, a higher flowing fuel pump is smart, if not altogether required.

 

Absolutely not, that will destroy it you need to tune it a cross the rpm scalars/load and throttle position. Buy something easy to work alienware or glink, or get mpps this is crap but it will read/ write as well as any other. Then buy WinOLS or something similar and tune the vehicle properly you will be screwed at wot and your fp is low or not where it needs to be lol.

 

I'm starting to wish I would have just saved the money I spend on the 380cc injectors and the quick tune and just left everything the way it was. The AFR's with the 200jcw tune and 330cc injectors looked perfect. I guess you never know until you try.

 

Well, after running several tanks of fuel though the motor.......I'm not really sure why, but according to my AFR gauge, now my AFR's are around 11.5-11.8 at WOT. When I first put in the DME with the WMW Quick Tune it was running closer to 10.5 at WOT....why the change?

I'm not complaining....because it definitely seems to pull harder on the top end, I'm just confused at why it's running ...well, where I want it to. Did the DME have to adjust itself? If so...that sounds like it would be hard for tuners to dial it in to what they really want if the DME will take it upon itself to do whatever it wants with the WOT AFR's. Strange.....

Also......a side affect of the Quick Tune is that I've gained a solid 2MPG on the last three tanks of fuel (Calculated, not going off of the MPG reading on the gauge).

 

There should be no DME "adjusting" or "learning" when running WOT. There are preset tables that determine WOT timing / fueling, and they go unaffected by engine sensors such as the primary O2 sensor.

Regardless, I'm glad you're seeing those numbers; bit of a mystery... Seasonal gas change? Drastic change in air temps near you?

 

Yeah, I knew that the WOT mixture was all based off of AF charts in the DME…..that’s why I was so confused when I noticed different AFR numbers.

The one thing that I thought about was the fact that I was doing 3000rpm to 6500rpms 3rd gear runs at WOT originally…..that’s a long time at WOT, and with the 17% pulley I have, maybe the SC is generating so much heat that the IC can’t keep up with it…..heating up the intake charge really high, causing an overly rich mixture (hotter air = less oxygen).

So, when I’m getting on the gas in 2nd gear at higher rpms, and then shifting to 3rd in WOT…..the amount of time I’m actually at WOT is much shorter, not allowing the SC to heat up the intake air as much…..not causing the overly rich situation?

That’s the best theory I can come up with that actually makes sense.

 

Well, high air charge temps can cause timing retard, which can then lead to a rich AFR (ignition retard = unburnt fuel = rich AFR) but I don't think that's happening here; the jump is too severe.