R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006) Cooper (R50) and Cooper S (R53) hatchback discussion.

R50/53 Hatch Will Not Open

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Old Mar 25, 2013 | 03:21 PM
  #1  
Hochspannung's Avatar
Hochspannung
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Hatch Will Not Open

Alrighty, I was washing my car in the driveway. I was wiping down the toggle switch panel while the exterior drip dried a bit. I hit the unlock/lock switch a couple times and then the rear hatch started going crazy; locking and unlocking rapidly. Went around to the back opened the hatch.. closed it. Now it won't open anymore.

Fuses are good. All other door locks operate normally.

Peeled the seats down to look at the mechanism, looks normal, latched closed.

Boot open button on the key fob flashes the tails as if the hatch is unlocked, but the hatch button doesn't open.

Suggestions?
 
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Old Mar 25, 2013 | 03:47 PM
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I think there is an emergency release by the rear seats. Try pulling that and see if it opens up.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2013 | 03:48 PM
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Assuming you have a late 2003 or new, under the rear seat is a emergency release cable you just pull on the ring and it will open.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2013 | 03:53 PM
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Yup...most cars have a cable under the rear seat cushion ....pull it, trunk opens.
sounds like you got something wet when you were wiping stuff down...let it dry...and hopefully it will start working....
 
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Old Mar 25, 2013 | 03:54 PM
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OK update. car is 2005

I took off the grab handle and sprayed contact cleaner on the button. Then I thought, well maybe the whole grab handle isn't getting power. so I turned on my head lights.

The License plate lights lit up fine and then i pressed the button and the hatch opened.

Great.. I fixed it I guess. Turn the lights off, Hatch makes rapid sounds again and pops the hatch open. Then it wouldn't close.

Turn the lights on again and close the hatch. Lights off, hatch pops open again but this time I was able to click it closed.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2013 | 04:27 PM
  #6  
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Maybe it all got wet under there and just needs to dry out. the seal is garbage and I have surface rust to the left and right of the mini emblem in the seams of the handle and the hatch
 
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Old Mar 26, 2013 | 05:25 AM
  #7  
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Make sure everything is dry under there. And changing the seal will help eliminate those water issues in the future, for that connection to the body. When you reattach the plug from the trunk lid grip to the harness in the shell of the trunk, make sure you clip it in all the way, its a tight fit.

Seal can be replaced and then you should be good to go.

Did you inspect the grab handle for corrosion and near the lens housing? They are known to be another access point for water?

Good luck with the fix.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/51247114521/
 
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Old Mar 26, 2013 | 08:56 AM
  #8  
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Yes I have two surface rust spots above the lights. Trying to have MINI fix it under warranty. It seems like since its dried out now that it works fine. I will be buying a new seal. Also pushing for them to fix my rust spots.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2013 | 09:58 AM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by Hochspannung
OK update. car is 2005

I took off the grab handle and sprayed contact cleaner on the button. Then I thought, well maybe the whole grab handle isn't getting power. so I turned on my head lights.

The License plate lights lit up fine and then i pressed the button and the hatch opened.

Great.. I fixed it I guess. Turn the lights off, Hatch makes rapid sounds again and pops the hatch open. Then it wouldn't close.

Turn the lights on again and close the hatch. Lights off, hatch pops open again but this time I was able to click it closed.
You are not alone, I had the same problem, what I did was I took off the plastic panel on the inside of the hatch to gain access to the connector, took off the handle itself too, I disconnected the battery just in case, I ordered a new gasket, it's cheap about 10 to 20 bucks the clean the contacts, I had corrosion in them, peel off the old gasket, clean the handle put the new gasket make sure that it goes the same way as the old one did, I put some electrical grease or whatever they call it on and around the contact and on the micro switch. Put everything back and no problems since, I now wash my car with confidence ......for now
 
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Old Mar 26, 2013 | 10:02 AM
  #10  
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minibx
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From: Bronx,NY
Originally Posted by Hochspannung
Yes I have two surface rust spots above the lights. Trying to have MINI fix it under warranty. It seems like since its dried out now that it works fine. I will be buying a new seal. Also pushing for them to fix my rust spots.

Yes it fixes itself after its dried but it will do it again and it could be permanent and in that case you have to replace the whole thing... I think
 
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Old Mar 26, 2013 | 10:23 AM
  #11  
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From: Bronx,NY
This could help

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...elf-fixed.html
 
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Old Mar 26, 2013 | 02:50 PM
  #12  
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Great, thanks guys
 
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Old Mar 26, 2013 | 04:07 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by minibx
You are not alone, I had the same problem, what I did was I took off the plastic panel on the inside of the hatch to gain access to the connector, took off the handle itself too, I disconnected the battery just in case, I ordered a new gasket, it's cheap about 10 to 20 bucks the clean the contacts, I had corrosion in them, peel off the old gasket, clean the handle put the new gasket make sure that it goes the same way as the old one did, I put some electrical grease or whatever they call it on and around the contact and on the micro switch. Put everything back and no problems since, I now wash my car with confidence ......for now
Rather than buy a,new gasket, i had some liquid form-a-gasket...put some on the perished oem foam one to make thicker...and reinstalled...several years ago...no issues!!
Dielectric grease is great stuff...keeps corossion away, and improves connections...great for the plugs/connections in moisture prone locations where corrosion can be an issue!!
If the gasket on the rubber button fails, the entire handle can be swaped out in a few minutes!
 
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