R50/53 New shocks or not?
Come on back
Koni fsd's for ride quailty...some track junkies don't like them cause they are progressive....but great on the street....
And a bigger rear swaybar to make the turns more fun!!
bet those back roads are a blast in WV!! I spent a few years around the salem/clarksburg/bridgeport area years ago....some of those lightly traveled back roads are truely gems!!
And a bigger rear swaybar to make the turns more fun!!
bet those back roads are a blast in WV!! I spent a few years around the salem/clarksburg/bridgeport area years ago....some of those lightly traveled back roads are truely gems!!

I'm going with the FSDs for sure. One member on here mentioned letting a local shop change them out rather than a dealer? What do you think?
Thanks.
Well, I don't trust any local guys here in Gainesville farther than I can throw them. Town full of college kids, I'm afraid of 1. Being ripped off, and 2. Crappy work, just like all the other crappy services this town "provides" 
At least at a dealer, I KNOW it'll be done Right the first time, and if something goes wrong, they'll fix it no questions asked
Also figure, if I ever do sell this car, it'll look pretty good to have had 100% of my work done by Mini.

At least at a dealer, I KNOW it'll be done Right the first time, and if something goes wrong, they'll fix it no questions asked
Also figure, if I ever do sell this car, it'll look pretty good to have had 100% of my work done by Mini.
So true
Well, I don't trust any local guys here in Gainesville farther than I can throw them. Town full of college kids, I'm afraid of 1. Being ripped off, and 2. Crappy work, just like all the other crappy services this town "provides" 
At least at a dealer, I KNOW it'll be done Right the first time, and if something goes wrong, they'll fix it no questions asked
Also figure, if I ever do sell this car, it'll look pretty good to have had 100% of my work done by Mini.

At least at a dealer, I KNOW it'll be done Right the first time, and if something goes wrong, they'll fix it no questions asked
Also figure, if I ever do sell this car, it'll look pretty good to have had 100% of my work done by Mini.
Ha, our club just ran through the twisties in Salem, Clarksburg and surrounding areas today. Drove about 165 miles doing that!
I'm going with the FSDs for sure. One member on here mentioned letting a local shop change them out rather than a dealer? What do you think?
Thanks.

I'm going with the FSDs for sure. One member on here mentioned letting a local shop change them out rather than a dealer? What do you think?
Thanks.
Those back roads are a blast...had a honda back in the day....i could almost keep up with some of the miata's driven by some of the guys from Japan in Salem.....kinda funny how in the middle of nowhere you will suddenly find a church big enough for 6 people....fly around a curve, cross a one lane bridge, then zip up a hill to find another tiny church!!
good roads though, even in the middle of nowhere!!
I am a service advisor at the new Mini of Wesley Chapel in well, Wesley Chapel fl. I can tell you that yes you will pay a little more at the dealer. But you also get more. I can tell you that our guys are master certified MINI/ BMW techs. They have to go through extensive training and testing to be able to get their certifications from MINI. Sou you have guys working on your car that specialize on these cars. You also get 2 years unlimited mileage on parts and labor as a warranty. Don't know of too many independent shops that can offer that. You also get alternate transportation wether its a shuttle ride to the local mall, home or work. And if needed a loaner vehicle can be arranged. Not to mention an awesome state of the art building designed by and for mini. If you have any questions in regards let me know if we can help.
Back roads
As long as the shop is reasonably comptant, they should do fine. I would stay away from the local shade-tree guy who thinks anything without a ford or chevy badge is evil, with the pickup with "farm use" painted on the side!! The brakes, and the suspension is pretty standard....a STRONG spring compressor helps lots on a gen2....but on a gen1, a regular one is fine.
Those back roads are a blast...had a honda back in the day....i could almost keep up with some of the miata's driven by some of the guys from Japan in Salem.....kinda funny how in the middle of nowhere you will suddenly find a church big enough for 6 people....fly around a curve, cross a one lane bridge, then zip up a hill to find another tiny church!!
good roads though, even in the middle of nowhere!!
Those back roads are a blast...had a honda back in the day....i could almost keep up with some of the miata's driven by some of the guys from Japan in Salem.....kinda funny how in the middle of nowhere you will suddenly find a church big enough for 6 people....fly around a curve, cross a one lane bridge, then zip up a hill to find another tiny church!!
good roads though, even in the middle of nowhere!!
. I can tell you that our guys are master certified MINI/ BMW techs. They have to go through extensive training and testing to be able to get their certifications from MINI. Sou you have guys working on your car that specialize on these cars. You also get 2 years unlimited mileage on parts and labor as a warranty.....
Greetings!
I own an '05 Cooper S with 79K miles on her. I've owned Twiggy for a year now and I am wondering if I should replace all the shocks or not.
The ride is firm and comfortable and I don't track or race her. I do notice that on certain bumps or potholes--small ones that you can't miss, the car seems to hit pretty hard.
How do I know if they are really bad or not. The tracks straight as an arrow and no shimmy.
I've been reading on Koni's new FSD shocks. These are not coil over. So what's the real difference between coil over and not?
Thanks all!
I own an '05 Cooper S with 79K miles on her. I've owned Twiggy for a year now and I am wondering if I should replace all the shocks or not.

The ride is firm and comfortable and I don't track or race her. I do notice that on certain bumps or potholes--small ones that you can't miss, the car seems to hit pretty hard.
How do I know if they are really bad or not. The tracks straight as an arrow and no shimmy.
I've been reading on Koni's new FSD shocks. These are not coil over. So what's the real difference between coil over and not?
Thanks all!

If you have 80K miles on it, yes struts are done. Worn struts will only result in tower mushrooming and strut mount cracking......
These struts are gas charged and unlike the olden days of oil shocks the signs of escaped invisible gases and worn valving cannot be seen or felt until you run into pot holes......
I went with the JCW suspension's moderate drop of 1/2 to 3/4 inch to maintain proper drive line angle for the front axle so I didn't experience issues of premature driveline wear and axle vibration.
If you go with springs, you would need struts which are designed for operating with lower springs. FSD's are not in this category. Bilstein sport and some Koni's are designed to operate in the travel area restricted by lowering.
Pick up 6 strut mount bolts if keeping your stock mounts.
Alignment afterwards, preferably by a MINI dealer as you probably already know is also crucial no matter what you decide here.
How many hours labor to replace stock shocks on all four corners with Koni FSD's (2005 Cooper S Hatchback)?
How many hours additional labor to replace rear sway bar at the same time?
Working with an independent shop and would like some measure to gauge reasonableness of charges.
How many hours additional labor to replace rear sway bar at the same time?
Working with an independent shop and would like some measure to gauge reasonableness of charges.
How many hours labor to replace stock shocks on all four corners with Koni FSD's (2005 Cooper S Hatchback)?
How many hours additional labor to replace rear sway bar at the same time?
Working with an independent shop and would like some measure to gauge reasonableness of charges.
How many hours additional labor to replace rear sway bar at the same time?
Working with an independent shop and would like some measure to gauge reasonableness of charges.
So probably between 2 to 3 hours for a competent shop would be fair.
Evidently I have been hosed on labor charges. Independent shop charged 5 hours to replace front and rear shocks, 2 hours for rear sway bar install, 5 hours for front and rear brake rotors and pads, and 2 1/2 hours for an alignment. No issues, everything was bolt on. Maybe I should have gone to the dealer.
Not really feeling game right now for having them do a 17% pulley, as was the plan for the next step.
Not really feeling game right now for having them do a 17% pulley, as was the plan for the next step.
You paid over 1,000 in labor and another 1,000+ in parts cost? Yeah kind of got worked over.
Sorry to hear that. Most places charge 1 hour labor for the pulley + you need a new belt. So $300 +\- all in including the pulley.
Where are you located?
Sorry to hear that. Most places charge 1 hour labor for the pulley + you need a new belt. So $300 +\- all in including the pulley.
Where are you located?
Also spring compressors are a must.
I personally hear a lot less squeaks and rattles now with the new shocks installed...
So to each his own....
Oh well....not that it will be necessary anytime soon (hoping for 40k miles) but at least I know what I am getting into.
Despite getting worked over on the installation cost, the Koni FSD's are a great improvement. The Alta 22mm sway bar helps to remove the built-in understeer, although the car still has some initial understeer on turn in.
A front end alignment was recommended and done - don't know if it was required or not. Labor bill was not itemized, but the total for everything was about $1600. I know, I got hosed.
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if anyone thinks I'm insane please, give me enough cash for a set and ill glady get a set megan racing coil overs.
