Went into limp mode at 6000 RPM's
 

So i was getting on it in 3rd gear and as soon as it got to around 6K it went into limp mode with all the dummy lights on. Turned engine off and started again, runs fine except SEL still on. Any ideas? 03 MCS 42k

Look at your belt / tensioner / crank pulley, a simple belt slip & sudden loss of boost could cause this. If not any of these things and it does it again, try and pull a code.

The only real way to answer this is to pull the codes from the CEL.

My R53 did this the second day I had it with a rev match downshift on the highway because of a semi cutting me off. It was the Valve stuck open on the supercharger. Replaced, no other issues since.

Hey speedracer. Do you do your own work or does someone like your girlfriend, boyfriend or husband help? Don't shoot me just curious.

I do the work on my vehicles, but when it came to the mini I haven't worked on one yet. (soon with the pulley and ect.) I took it in for a warranty fix

So the Z28 you did the work yourself? Who took the leg up pic?

Thanks for the responses guys. Went out to start this morning and CEL was gone! Went to Autozone for a free code read and it showed P1688. What does this tell me?

This is either the crank pulley or the bypass valve. Check them.

Z28 is my other halts car when I let him drive it. She will be getting some fixes this spring. I could list the 18 different cars i've modded, raced, or built. Sargent_Sh!tbag on here is my other half. He posted in the intro section also.

I am with Braminator on this and leaning strongly toward crank pulley.You do have low mileage though, please definately post up outcome.

Taking it in to mechanic monday. Discussed it with him a little on the phone about it and he thinks it could be crank pulley too. I will post up later thanks.

Verdict is in, broken spring in Bypass valve. Could i also blame my poor throttle response on the Bp valve?

maybe but throttle response is a little slugish the pedal signals a bit slow hahaha, kinda wish they still made cable driven throttles.

D1 spec ($100) or sprint booster($300) will fix that.

My bet is the crank damper.....the bypass valve will not usually throw a code...could be stuck too though...they fail to seal as they age or the vacuum diagram goes bad...
The crank damper (OEM) is two metal parts with a rubber part filling in the space between them....it tends to fatigue, and let go...slipping a bit at first...then more...then totally, resulting in an immobile car....no waterpump, SC, alternator, etc.
The fix is a new OEM, or IMO the better, longer lasting, route, a ATI superdamper or the cheaper than OEM PRW (or PRI?) gel damper....both have had good results from folks using them.

Ordered up the Detroit tuned bypass valve and will get it installed friday. Hope to get the same results i keep reading about compared to OEM.

All bypass vales made after 2005 had a bit of a stiffer spring....made things better...
The DT one has a STIFFER spring yet...
some like it, some don't..it snaps shut, making the car a bit harder to drive with fineness....
Tip....you can ZIP-TIE the old one closed, and test it...
you will loose a bit of MPG cause it will not bypass the SC boost at very low/idle rpms, reducing engine load, but easy test to see of you get a code...some valves DO have the vacuum actuator/cylinder that opens/closes it fail, or the seating ring wear that forms the seal...all easy to look for.

All the positive posts ive read about the DT BPV seem to be on the 02-04's. Something about the Yo-yo affect on these Mini's.