Hello,

Does anyone know if the Lisle 28600 tool will fit the pegs to retract the piston on an R53 rear brake? It's an inexpensive six sided tool (commonly available in US auto parts shops) that has various peg configurations on each side.

https://www.google.com/webhp?sourcei...w=1440&bih=775

On Lisle's website they make no claim that it will work with a Mini, they do specifically say some of their fancier tools will fit the Mazda 3 and Mini Cooper. It looks like Auto Zone will rent out tools that will probably work to retract a Mini Coopers rear piston:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=298604_0_0_

Has anyone used one of these?

It's time to change the rear pads on my 2003 R53. I can spend $40 to $50 for a tool from a Mini parts place, but it seems like a lot for something I might use once every five or ten years.

-Eric

 

I'm not sure the one at Autozone wil fit. I tried the tool rental route a few years ago and was met with frustration.

Harbor Freight has a kit which does have the proper size plates and adapters to do the job. It was relatively inexpensive (as are all things at HF), and has worked on 3 pad replacements.

 

The Autozone one does fit, you just need the extension box too. You'll see it on the counter thing that has the tools listed.

 

I've seen the kit at Harbor Freight that should work fine.

 

side bar comment

I have the HF kit - it comes with several adapter plates. What fits the MINI is the basic tool with no adapter. This suggests to me, MINI uses the most common size.

There have been posts about people using the 'cube' successfully (HF sells it too)

successfully is not the same as easily. but note TOO that the full HF kit can be awkward the first time you try to use it. The entire process is sort of a "rub your tummy, pat your head" kind of thing.

**added*** that loaner kit OP linked looks exactly like my HF kit....

 

I have the HF kit and it worked great. It has a ton of adapters that should work on any future car you or a friend could have.

 

Don't forget to lube the piston before you twist it back in.

 

I used the HF kit as well. Worked just fine.

 

FWIW, a pair of needlenose pliers worked just fine for me.

 

Haha, thought I was missing something here. That's all I've ever used.

Nik

 

"lube the piston"? There is a dust seal around the piston. How are you supposed to lube it?

- Mark

 

"lube the piston"? There is a dust seal around the piston. How are you supposed to lube it?

I've had good luck with the HF tool once I figured out that the pitch of the threads on the HF tool don't match how quickly the piston retracts as you turn it. You have to keep readjusting the tool to remove the slack as you go. No big deal but confusing the first time you use it.

- Mark

 

I've seen an "Eric The Car Guy" video on youtube where he advocates working silicone grease between the boot and the piston so that the piston doesn't bind on the boot as you rotate with the retracting tool of your choice. This was on a Honda, but I'd imagine the theory is the same. I guess you'd want to clean off as much as possible, after you're done to keep from having Silicone contaminating the break pads/rotors.

One of my capliper boots has a small tear in it. I'm hoping that I can change it before any damage occurs. I'd assume that it's easiest to change the boot prior to my retracting the piston. Should I just work it out with a small flat head screwdriver?

-Eric

 

1 Clean the caliper with Brake Cleaner. Special attention to the dust boot (secondary seal).
2 I use Castrol GRR - you use your weapon of choice - work about 1/2 a teaspoon of the grease under the boot (I use Popsicle sticks for this - cut down if needed) onto the piston and squish it around. As you retract the piston it will lube the primary seal.
ewgoforth - you will have to get the piston out to change that torn boot (secondary seal). Don't forget to lube it all for reassembly!!

 

I don't know... Mini says nothing about lubing the caliper piston during retraction and in the process of getting lube around the dust seal, I think you'd be just as likely to contaminate the piston as do it any good. Further, in the process of getting the seal out of the way, you're increasing the likelihood you'll compromise the seal. Finally, any lube you use may attract more dust.

If the dust seal is in good shape and doing its job, I vote to do it by the book and leave well enough alone. YMMV.

- Mark

 

Your choice - your car. I guess it depends on your skill level and experience too. Also MINI says nothing about making the car last 15+ years.

 

As far as removing and reinstalling the piston in order to change the seals, I guess I need to just unscrew it from the caliper? Compressed air's not going to do anything?

-Eric

 

As you will have to bleed anyway just use the car to pump it out. Clamp the hose as soon as it pops.

 

Blowing/pumping it out will separate it from the parking brake mechanism? I assume that basically, I will need to screw it back together (the piston into the caliper)?