Alright so I've decided that its time for me to perform a major 110k mile service on my car since I already have the entire front end apart for a radiator replacement. So here is what I've been considering as of now.

- remove supercharger, check the oil level on front and rear reservoirs
- replace one time use gaskets that become defective when the supercharger is removed.
- replace valve cover gasket and bolts (they're rusty as fff*****-____- )
- replace serpentine belt
- replace radiator (defective on my car at the moment)
- replace thermostat
- oil change

Should I replace the camshaft and crank O rings while I'm at it?
Also considering the oil pan gasket..

I'm really touching up on everything because I plan on working on my Competition license on this car, so yes it will be tracked often this summer.

Anything else I'm missing?



On "service mode"

 

Why not you are already there.

It is a big job. Is it leaking now? If it is go for it.

Looks like you will have a nicely freshend MINI after all this. What radiator did you go with?

 

Fresh coolant, brake fluid flush too...perhaps add stainless lines...maybe a fluid change on the stickshift...safe to say plugs and oil are getting done too i bet. I wouod look at your rad hoses closely...while oems might be good much longer, it is an easy, convient time to swap them out, especially if they show rubs or a rough inside.
With that many miles, i bet the rubber oem sc gaskets (on to where it mounts where it connects to the sc horns) are a bit too stiff...new ones are cheap, and will prevent boost leaks.

 

Good idea, I will be flushing my brakes as well. Not too sure about the stainless lines though, I drove a BMW that had them and thought the brakes were wayy too touchy, I did consider them a few months ago when I rebuilt my calipers and overhauled my brakes.
I'm thinking about start tracking the car first, if I feel the need for a better brake response I'll slap them in.

The hoses seem fine, although the clamps all have surface rust, might replace those.

forgot to mention that I'll be checking for boost leaks, chances are that I'll be replacing my intercooler anyway for better efficiency. I appreciate the heads up though.

 

There's plenty of oil build up around the supercharger and some parts of the block.. I'm replacing the gaskets that seem to be leaking and the rest is just preventive maintanence really..

Just sticking to OEM, thought about a Moshimoto but I'm a BMW employee and was able to get a hold of a fresh unit for a $100.. Thought it was best to just stick to that and spend the money on BSH motor/tranny mounts.

 

Not dependent on service mode, but if you have not changed the trans fluid do that.
Easy to drain and refile with Redline MTL.

 

I'm just finishing something similar:
-Change SC oil (why just check it?)
-Change water pump
-Change crank position sensor o-ring
-Change t-stat, housing, coolant
-Replace belt
-Change dipstick o-ring

Just test drove the car today. Everything went well except that the new belt is slipping. Apparently a stock belt on a reduced sized SC pulley is not a good idea. Going back to NAPA tomorrow to try to match up the old belt with a new one.

 

If you're going to track the car, I highly recommend the SS brake lines as a safety factor. If you haven't changed out the crank pulley, belt tensioner and idler pulley, I'd seriously consider it.

 

I'd go for rad hoses too. Shame to loose to a split hose rather than the car behind.

 

Generally folks have been using the '535 length belt with a 15 or 17% reduction, but many folks have found the '532 length belt to be a slightly better fit as of late....

 

Not too sure if I want to mess with the transmission oil... Because of the high mileage all the wear material from the syncros are all over the oil, replacing the factory synthetic oil with something new could cause issues... So I'll skip this one for now.

 

I'll bite:

How could changing the trans oil create issues?

 

You might not want to stand so close to the exhaust pipe anymore. Changing the fluid will NOT cause any issues. IF anything it would help it.

 

I would add this to the list:

-Water pump !!!!
-Intercooler couplers if original.
-Crank Sensor O ring.
-Since your doing the valve cover bolts, do the valve cover gasket and 4 spark plug seals.
-vac line for Fuel Pressure Regulator ( PITA to get to when stuff bolted in the way )
-gasket for both oil cooler and housing

and if the intake duct's lower attachment hole is stressed replace it with a new green jam gasket. Part No. 15 below. Green gasket for that duct to SC. = # 11610020836.

 

SOMETIMES THIS advise is connected with long neglected automatic trannys and NOT doing a flush, but just a drain and fill......
but with a stick, just do it.
with a stick, there is no filters, and no internal clutches in the tranny like in an auto....so the oil DOES stay very clean....the only real contamination is from meatsls from gear grinding, and the oil that breaks down from sheering action, since the temps are very moderate.

 

I learned my lesson back when I replaced the transmission oil on my old jeep YJ that I got a few years back when I was only 17.

I remember replacing the old oil with something new that was recommended by Jeep only to have my transmission sieze on me nearly a month after.
The most experienced BMW techincians at the dealership where I work DO NOT recommend replacing the oil on my MINI's tranny... Although I've done it multiple times on my miata back when I autocrossed it, can't really use that car as a reference since its no longer in one piece

I've read plenty plenty reviews online recommending Redline as replacement, I might grab a couple bottle of those later on as well. We'll see.

Remember, the syncronizers on your manual transmission are nothing but clutches. Anyone who has taken one apart and understood the mechanism will agree on this.

 

Thanks for the advice, I made sure to grab 4 new spark plug plug seals along with the gasket, so those are being replaced.

Crank and cam O rings are in

I will be checking for boost leaks, so yes I'm considering new boots.

Since I will be removing the supercharger, that green seal will be replaced anyway along with the throttle body gasket..

Will take a look at the oil cooler

 

I was thinking the same thing...

 

Please tell us where this dealership is.

 

I fogot one more thing.

If you are going to track the MINI, esp in autox, I would consider a baffled oil pan to keep the pump from being oil starved. I think Waymotorworks or Madnessmotorworks has them.

 

+1 on the Crank Pulley if it's original, ans since you're thinking along the "track" lines, I would consider the fluid type because of the more sustained high rpm.

 

They do, I've already checked it out. But like I said, I'm only doing some maintenance for now.

 

What pulley are you using?

 

Personally, I have the ATI, but thats only due to not being aware of the SFI Fluid Gel Dampers, when I needed to replace my OEM, not to mention that they're less expensive also.

 

MeBoosta,

while its torn apart, check / inspect closely the TB to SC tube. There is a "known" issue for earlier gen r53s where the plastic weld from the BPV connector was crappy, causing leakage. at worst, id say some RTV or similar sealant would be good insurance.

also consider a fuel filter change. made mini do mine some time back. it was filthy. just be careful pulling the pump out, something about being able to break something off during that process... theres a DIY out there somewhere too. should be like, $100 or less in parts.