Looking for Used Window Regulator Plastic Clips
 

I traced my driver's side window klunking sound to one of the white plastic clips that holds the 2 upper cables against the metal door. My forward clip has broken both of the retaining tabs off and the bottom of the glass was catching the cables going down. When the window went all the way up the cables shifted and slapped the door causing the other noise. I tried double sided tape on the clip but the cables move with some force and the clip needs to be held firmly in place.

If anyone has an old regulator with intact clips I'd sure appreciate getting one. They're only sold with the new regulator assembly and so far mine is in perfect working order. I have temporarily wrapped tape around the two cables to allow the window to slide over them and it's working great: no noise at all either up or down. But, I'd like to get the OEM clip in place for added security. I've included a pic of the clip alongside a key for perspective. I had smoothed the back of the clip to accept double sided tape so I looks smoother than it should. Thanks.

Eric

http://i697.photobucket.com/albums/v...eman55/013.jpg

Two of these clips come in the "mounting parts set"
51 33 7 031 087
It also comes with a bunch of screws, washers, and fasteners.
They look just like your picture except for two clips on the concave side
which I assume have broken off of yours.
It cost me $16.75 from www.pelicanparts.com , but you can probably get it from a number of sources, maybe even your local dealer.

There's also a Repair Kit Window Lifter (51 33 7 177 925) that comes with a different clip (actually two of them)
and a packet of white grease for less than $10.
it's pictured as #9 at the bottom of the diagram here, a single clamp alone (51 33 7 132 223) is #7 :
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...51&fg=10&hl=18


not what you're looking for, but maybe someone else is

Thank You!!
 

Many, many thanks!! That's exactly the information I needed and I've already ordered the parts I need. Saved the Pelican website for future use as well. Just love this forum!!! :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Eric

You're welcome. Glad to help.

It's amazing how often the dealer parts department will say something like
"They're only sold with the new regulator assembly" when they know full well otherwise.

Unfortunately for me, the nearest Mini dealer is over 100 miles away, hence my appreciation for the help received here. Online parts ordering is a way of life in Point Roberts, WA.

Eric

Hey, I've got that same mousepad. Lots of MINI/Miata people. NAM is a great resource!

Did the parts kit fix the problem
 

I think my window is doing the same thing, when I roll down no noise. BUT when rolling the window completely up there is a LOUD banging sound. Did the clips fix your problem?

No Window Noise Now!!
 

The clip kit hasn't arrived yet but my window is now completely silent going down and up!! I sprayed some lube around the pulley wheels and applied grease by hand to both of the metal slide rails. I removed the damaged plastic clip and tried taping the two cables to the door with some high-strength tape. The tape worked OK when the window went down but the top cable would pop the tape loose when the window went up. Turns out the top cable jerks when the window just closes and there is enough force that the cable moves quite a bit laterally.

However, when I discovered the tape was pulling loose, rather than removing the tape I folded it over the top cable, figuring the layer of 2" wide tape covering both cables could help the window slide over the cables easier. There were wear marks in the plastic sheathing on both cables indicating where the window was catching them. So far, the tape seems to be working since the window is completely quiet now.

Here's what I think was happening. The bottom of the glass was catching the cables on the way down, causing the first noise. Then, upon closing the window, once the glass is past the cables they bang about against the metal door panel as they move around when the window closes. I'm sure the grease on the tracks has helped as well.

I should get the new clips next week and I'll report on the situation once I replace the broken one.

Eric

I realize it's a bit delayed... but this find was fantastic. I almost ordered a new regulator for the same issue. Thanks a thousand times... or at least $171 times for the cash you saved me. :thumbsup:

I should update my window situation after I received the OEM installation kit with the new plastic retaining clips.

I fitted the new clip and the window was going up and down with no noise at all, very smoothly as well. However, after about 10 up/down cycles, there was a loud snap and the new clip broke off, just like the original.

I figured that my cables are jerking sideways at some point, applying more force to the clip than it is designed for. Can't blame age or fatigue since the clip was brand new.

Decided to fix the problem once and for all. I obtained some small stainless steel cushion clamps from a marine supply store. These are used to hold wiring, cables, etc., pretty much anything that needs to be secured. The stainless steel band is covered with a rubber insert on the portion that holds the wires. The flat bands come together and have a 1/4" hole for fastening.

I took some careful measurements using a ruler and tape to transfer the original clip mounting holes to the other side of the door panel (the side where the plastic door panel fits. Since the clip holes are located in a double wall area, you don't have direct access to them, unfortunately.

I used a small drill bit to drill several holes until I had located the hidden clip holes. I then used a 3/4" hole saw to cut a hole in the door directly opposite the lower clip hole. I fitted my 2 stainless cushion clamps onto the 2 window cables so their mounting holes overlapped in the middle. Sort of a capital 'B' with a gap in the middle. Secured the clamps to the door with a 1/4" bolt and nylock nut.

The window has worked perfectly ever since. The cushion clamps securely hold the cables and the rubber inserts keep everything quiet. I dabbed touchup paint on the edges of the new hole to prevent any corrosion. Of course, you can't see the hole since the door panel covers everything.

I don't know why my plastic clips couldn't take the strain of the window regulator cables but at least I've managed to find a truly permanent solution. It will take a tremendous force to brake the stainless clamps so I'm quite happy with the setup.

Eric