I had written about this before. However, since I am a slow learner, I will require additional assitance. I purchased from the old country a light bar and two driving lights and fog lights. After three weeks the bar was quickly assemblied to the car with the help of the 2nd and 3rd Marine Divisions. Now I would like to get them working. I have the Xeon head lights and factory fog lights on the car. Before I stat getting into major lines that might fry me, I would like some advise. Is this something that I can do without having to have the computer reset? I want to put switches inside to control the lights. I have so far run the wires to the left side of the car in the engine compartment.. Is this an okay plce to enter the car? What type of bits will I need to go into the fuse block? I will install relay switches. Help!

Mike

 

step 1 - disconnect negative battery cable to prevent frying of motorer.

 

Step 2...........Call in the NAVY!

 

I'm not certain how the on-board computer reacts to disconnecting the battery--check with your Mini Dealer. Most on-board car computer systems have small memory batteries or capacitors that can survive several days or longer with a dead main battery.

Work the high current side directly from the battery with heavy gauge wiring to your solenoid/relay. The guage of the wire will be related to the total expected current draw. The more incandescent lights, the lower the wire gauge (the thicker the wire is). HID's do not draw high current like older incandescent lamp types. Use high quality "gas tight" terminations/crimps and heat shrink tubing if possible (AMP makes them, but they require a special crimping tool that generates tons of pressure on the crimp) For the switched, low current side that drives the solenoids or relays, you can come from your fuse panel or also directly from the battery to your switch. You can use in-line fuses to protect all lines and they should be located as close to the voltage source/battery as possible to protect lines that might be subject to abrasion and short to the frame.

There are many options for high current solenoids, including ones that find their switch ground/return through contact with the frame rather than through a separate ground wire--less wiring to worry about. Check out Grainger or McMaster/Carr on the WEB for 12 volt solenoids /relays.

A word of caution: the heads up when working with low voltage electrical systems is the potential for shunting to ground and suffering a serious burn or damaging sensitive electrical systems downstream. Make sure you disconnect the battery and use a Ohm meter to check the wiring resistance to ground before you make that last connection to the voltage source. With the switch in the off position, you should read several MegaOhms between the supply side and ground. With the switch closed (and no voltage applied) you should measure something more than a dead short (0 Ohms). This reading will be the total system resistance including the wiring, switch, lamp filaments and HID coils.

Good luck, have fun, ask questions if you don'y know (saves buying replacements)


Cheers...