R50/53 Long-Term Storage advice
#1
#3
Yep - the tyre thing is old-school too ... i'm wonderang mainly about fuel system, cylindar walls ... stuff like that.
In the old days, we would spray oil through the spark plug holes, drain the float bowls, stuff like that ... are there things one can do like stabilizers in the fuel tank that really help?
In the old days, we would spray oil through the spark plug holes, drain the float bowls, stuff like that ... are there things one can do like stabilizers in the fuel tank that really help?
#7
I think the old rules still apply.
Fill the tank and add Stabil, drive 15 minutes and store the car.
Pull the plugs and squirt oil in all 4 cylinders.
Turn it over and shut off. Reinstall plugs.
Disconnect the battery and hook up to a trickle charger(if u want.)
Climate controlled storage is best + the jackstands of course.
Wish your friend well from all of us.
Fill the tank and add Stabil, drive 15 minutes and store the car.
Pull the plugs and squirt oil in all 4 cylinders.
Turn it over and shut off. Reinstall plugs.
Disconnect the battery and hook up to a trickle charger(if u want.)
Climate controlled storage is best + the jackstands of course.
Wish your friend well from all of us.
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#9
#10
I'd go with what 2minis stated above, except for the trickle charger. If you're worried about the battery, go with a battery tender, rather than a trickle charger - won't fry the battery over time.
A nice breathable, indoor cover would be nice also.
That's the way I've gone since November - I'll be unsealing the cocoon mid-march (hopefully- if it stops snowing around here).
Also, remember to maintain comp. insurance during this time...liability & collision can be dropped for cost savings.
Oh yeah, keep your head down. Iraq is especially nice this time of year...not!
A nice breathable, indoor cover would be nice also.
That's the way I've gone since November - I'll be unsealing the cocoon mid-march (hopefully- if it stops snowing around here).
Also, remember to maintain comp. insurance during this time...liability & collision can be dropped for cost savings.
Oh yeah, keep your head down. Iraq is especially nice this time of year...not!
#11
I think the old rules still apply.
Fill the tank and add Stabil, drive 15 minutes and store the car.
Pull the plugs and squirt oil in all 4 cylinders.
Turn it over and shut off. Reinstall plugs.
Disconnect the battery and hook up to a trickle charger(if u want.)
Climate controlled storage is best + the jackstands of course.
Wish your friend well from all of us.
Fill the tank and add Stabil, drive 15 minutes and store the car.
Pull the plugs and squirt oil in all 4 cylinders.
Turn it over and shut off. Reinstall plugs.
Disconnect the battery and hook up to a trickle charger(if u want.)
Climate controlled storage is best + the jackstands of course.
Wish your friend well from all of us.
I would not recommend starting it up a few times a month. This with make condensation in the block and exhaust, this you do not want. Also if it is me once your friend gets back change the oil. You can buy "fogging oil" at your local marina (WestMarine) also they sell a oil attive that I add when we winterize our boat. I do not know if the syn oil would need this or not.
Battery Tender over battery charger or just trickel charge once home. Battery Tenders work very well and only when needed.
2minis post I would recommend out of all others.
#12
MOST OF ALL......be safe and hurry the hell home! Thanks for your services.
#14
Thread resurrection, I know... but I'm going to be starting med school in the caribbean this fall and will be storing my R53. I have a garage to keep it in, and my dad can stop by and drive it once a month (or more frequently) if that's the best way to go but I'm curious if there's any opinions on the best way to store a car.
The specifics to my case are I'll be leaving in august and coming back for christmas break, and then probably gone til the next christmas break, then I'll be back in may. So I'm not too concerned about letting it sit for 3 months, but for nearly 12 months makes me a bit nervous.
My thought is to put stabil in the fuel, fresh oil, coat the cylinders with a bit of oil (i've always used a bit of 2 stroke oil in my motor cycle but would fogging oil be better?)hook it up to a battery tender, and cover it. I serviced the cooling system a couple of weeks ago and the trans fluid is 6 months old. Brake fluid is a year old so I figure I'll plan on changing it either in december of this year or when I pull it out for good in may 2018.
should I put it on jack stands? it seems like having the suspension hanging might not be the best thing for it. I could store it on the snow tires/wheels that I have.
The specifics to my case are I'll be leaving in august and coming back for christmas break, and then probably gone til the next christmas break, then I'll be back in may. So I'm not too concerned about letting it sit for 3 months, but for nearly 12 months makes me a bit nervous.
My thought is to put stabil in the fuel, fresh oil, coat the cylinders with a bit of oil (i've always used a bit of 2 stroke oil in my motor cycle but would fogging oil be better?)hook it up to a battery tender, and cover it. I serviced the cooling system a couple of weeks ago and the trans fluid is 6 months old. Brake fluid is a year old so I figure I'll plan on changing it either in december of this year or when I pull it out for good in may 2018.
should I put it on jack stands? it seems like having the suspension hanging might not be the best thing for it. I could store it on the snow tires/wheels that I have.
#16
#18
Are there any thoughts out there about the best procedure for pulling a car out of storage? I mothballed my car back in December and I'll be pulling it out again in December (not that I'm anxiously looking forward to it or anything)
right now it's sitting with clean oil, fogged cylinders and a trickle charger. I kind of wish I had a way to run the oil pump for a few seconds before I try and start it for the first time. Is it worth changing the oil before I start it? or disconnecting the plugs/ignition and turning it over to circulate the oil before starting it?
other than that I figure I'll check all the fluids and tire pressure and go slow to start.
right now it's sitting with clean oil, fogged cylinders and a trickle charger. I kind of wish I had a way to run the oil pump for a few seconds before I try and start it for the first time. Is it worth changing the oil before I start it? or disconnecting the plugs/ignition and turning it over to circulate the oil before starting it?
other than that I figure I'll check all the fluids and tire pressure and go slow to start.
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