R50/53 Help me fix the problem...
Help me fix the problem...
Preface: I'm driving a 2003 MCS. Only engine mods are intake and engine damping kit.
Problem: Turning on the AC robs the car of all enjoyable power. The car stutters (more-so a vibration) in first gear and really takes a long time to go through the RPM ranges. The car is healthy; regular maintenance, seldom sees past 6k rpm, etc. I've always assumed this to be the characteristic of mini's. What modifications are available to remedy this issue or is it a mechanical problem with the car?
Rolling shot for *****...

Problem: Turning on the AC robs the car of all enjoyable power. The car stutters (more-so a vibration) in first gear and really takes a long time to go through the RPM ranges. The car is healthy; regular maintenance, seldom sees past 6k rpm, etc. I've always assumed this to be the characteristic of mini's. What modifications are available to remedy this issue or is it a mechanical problem with the car?
Rolling shot for *****...

I mean should he really be losing power when the ac is on tho, i feel like that is not a normal characteristic.........
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all of my friends laugh at me because of this
-Chase
Thanks for the responses. The only problem with the pulley reduction is that it's going void my extended warranty and also its an expensive install. I've looked over the DIY and I don't trust myself enough to do it on my own.
AC delete is not an option; especially in houston and the car as my daily!
I guess it's a relief to know that this symptom is experienced amongst other mini drivers besides myself. I drove the gen 2 minis and they didn't seem as affected by the powerloss with AC on.
AC delete is not an option; especially in houston and the car as my daily!
I guess it's a relief to know that this symptom is experienced amongst other mini drivers besides myself. I drove the gen 2 minis and they didn't seem as affected by the powerloss with AC on.
Okay. shortly after i posted this thread, my DSC, ABS, and TPMS light all turn on. I take it to my indy shop and he's not getting any fault codes from the ECU. A few days pass and i take the car to the dealership hoping they'll find the problem and my extended warranty to cover repairs.
This afternoon, i call my advisor and it's like hearing a relative going to the hospital with no cure. The front left wheel speed sensor is out ($300), right side joing axle needs to be replaced ($1,100), and the transmission needs to be replaced according to them for a crack at the slave cylinder (:drum roll: $6,000).
Needless to say, i pulled the car out of the shop. The advisor blamed the crack in the transmission from the car being too low. Needless to say I'm going to put my OEM suspension back on and give the warranty (3rd party) a shot.
Anybody have any recommendations as far as the repairs go. Can the tranmission portion of the repairs be "spot replaced?"
This afternoon, i call my advisor and it's like hearing a relative going to the hospital with no cure. The front left wheel speed sensor is out ($300), right side joing axle needs to be replaced ($1,100), and the transmission needs to be replaced according to them for a crack at the slave cylinder (:drum roll: $6,000).
Needless to say, i pulled the car out of the shop. The advisor blamed the crack in the transmission from the car being too low. Needless to say I'm going to put my OEM suspension back on and give the warranty (3rd party) a shot.
Anybody have any recommendations as far as the repairs go. Can the tranmission portion of the repairs be "spot replaced?"
Last edited by mister wiggles; Jul 24, 2009 at 06:18 PM.
You said take it to your Indy shop? are you in Indy, if so give us a call and we'll help you out, and alot cheaper than the dealer.
WAY
317.201.8670
WAY
317.201.8670
__________________
www.WayMotorWorks.com 2006 & 2007 NAMCC Overall Champion
i apologize, indy is in reference to independent shop. I'm in Texas.
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