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Correct me if I'm wrong - how is this brake setup?
After being quoted $1000 at a MINI dealership for all new brakes and rotors, I've decided to buy parts myself and pay a technician at the dealership I work at to do the work! This will be for an '03 MCS with roughly 45K miles.
I'm looking into doing a stock setup for the rear as braking is concentrated more in the front. Planning on rotors from minicarparts.net (~$35/pc.) and rear pads (~$75/set)- all OEM. For the front, I'm looking into using EBC Greenstuff from Waymotorworks (~$80.00/front set) and Texas Speed Works FREMAX front slotted rotors, which are carbon steel and promise longer life, better performance and all the usual brake promises (~$120/set). What do you think about this setup? I'm looking for low dust, low noise, decent performance (may autox this summer) and something that will last long and won't ruin my financially. Any input on using an OEM setup on the rear? Any advice/warnings on what I'm looking at? Also, my sensors haven't gone off showing I need new pads. Would you still replace them if you were me? Will the EBCs accomodate the sensors? Thanks for the help!:thumbsup: |
EBC Greenstuff are good pads for the occasional AutoX. (I've been told) I switched to EBC Greenstuff and their good when it comes to low dust. But they do get noisy in the beginning and their noise is temperature sensitive as well. Most rotor replacement is manufactured to atleast meet or exceed OEM specs, so for street use, any brand would do fine. The slots are better for AutoX for dissapating the heat faster that's about it really.
I think all the parts, front and rear brake pads, front and back sensors, front and back rotors, brake fluid and rotors is about $550 total. I was charged about $170 to do the brake job from a local mechanic I know. So about $600 for everything. Good deal compared to the dealership. If you want to know if you need to replace our pads or not, you can take off your wheels and look at your pads and see how much of it is remaining. There's a pic of a worn down pad in NAM somewhere and I'm sure there's a measurement as well. I was told typically the front brakes should be replaced every 30K and the rears every 60K; a very rough estimate. Once the sensors come in, you'd have to do your brakes soon anyways. Wouldn't wanna go more than 1500 miles once your lights are on. If you have the budget for it then go for it. |
I had drilled/slotted rotors on my last car. Granted they were junk, they warped very quickly. Any caution against using slotted TSW rotors as far as longevity goes?
Do the EBC Greenstuff eat rotors? I've heard some higher performance pads chew up rotors quickly! I had a brake inspection done at the MINI dealership. No doubt about it- they need replaced- rotors and pads. Squealing horribly and lots of pulsation. Plus I'm planning on leaving the dealership I work at, thus losing my awesome discount on labor! So I'm hoping to do this quickly before my two weeks is put in... |
You really want to try and get the same compound pads for the front and rear. You don't want to mess with the brake balance of the car.
There are better alternatives for low dust pads than the EBC's. EBC's are not a very rotor friendly pad. Hawk, Carbotech, Mintex are better alternatives to stock. Go with the Brembo OEM rotors. High quality and very well priced. |
Thanks for the information, Bigshot!
Didn't really consider the brake balance, but probably a good thing to keep in mind. I'll look into Hawk, Carbotech and Mintex. Thanks again! |
Originally Posted by MrCooperS
(Post 2695683)
Most rotor replacement is manufactured to atleast meet or exceed OEM specs, so for street use, any brand would do fine.
I usually check the thickness of the rotors (if near the minimum) or the meat left on the pad, to determine if it's time to do the brakes. Also it there is any unevenness, pulsing or pulling when braking. I will change a little early if I can save and reuse the sensors. |
I'm finding, in some cases, that aftermarket performance is less expensive than OEM. I may use my parts discount, buy OEM rotors from the dealership I work at (Non-MINI) at 20% over cost and then put some good brake pads on.
So- next question: OEM rotors... what pads? Looking for decent performance (not worse than OEM), less dusty, quiet, won't eat rotors, long life and won't break the bank. |
When I mentioned "OEM" I guess I meant "OEM quality". I probably never buy real OEM either (unless I have to or justified.) :lol:
Take this with a grain of salt because I am not the primary driver on the mini, so while I want OEM or better performance, I'm not going to pay 2x for a slightly noticable difference. I know for some, the mini is their "baby". So being a fugal person, rotors I can get Zimmermanns ($150 for the set, delivered.) Rear pads you can get mintex for $30 - no dusting problem. Front pads I would pay up for low dust, because it's a pain to keep the BBS wheels clean. |
I see! Since I can get them for 20% over cost... I think I'm doing OEM rotors.
Trying to figure pads out... how big of a deal is it if they don't accomodate the sensors? |
Not that big a deal if they dont accommodate the sensors, just means you need to look at your pads every once and a while to see how much is left. FWIW I just installed a set of Axxis Ultimate pads on my car paired up with Centric rotors. So far so good, I have a thread going on here where I talk about how they are working and a bit of my decision process: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...rake-pads.html
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Looks like I'm in the same boat as you were! I'm in college, need brakes and tires... and looking for a good value!
I'll read up on your thread when I have a few minutes. Thanks! |
I have Mintex Redbox on my rears and they seem to work fine. Good price too (~$30 bucks a pair at Bavarian Autosport). They dust lest than OEM but more than the Hawk HPS pads I had before, but the Hawk were much more expensive. I don't recall if the pads have mounts for the pad sensors as I have mine all tied off.
If I were you I'd just get OEM replacement rotors and Mintex pads. It sounds like you are just looking for an oem type setup without the cost of OEM parts. Once you really get into Auto-x or track days I'm sure you'll have a better understanding of your needs at that point to make your next buying decision. As of now if it's a daily driver I think Mintex pads would be just fine for the $$$ |
Cool-definitely looking into Mintex pads!
Got a quote from where I work... with my discount, I can get front and rear rotors for less than no-name aftermarket rotors. DONE! |
Would you rate the Mintex as better, equal to or worse performance-wise than OEM? Better value than Hawks?
On BA right now looking at the Mintex... |
Hey guys, since I've been reading all this stuff about how fast brakes and rotors go on this car, I thought it fair to tell you that Napa does a "lifetime warranty" on some of their better pads.
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Performance wise I'd say they are at least as good as OEM. It's difficult for me to judge since I have a Wilwood BBK in the front. My buddy has Mintex front and rear on his MKIV GTI and he's even done track days with them and likes them a lot.
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Front and Rear EBC Greenstuff - $130
Front and Rear Sensors - $30 ATE Super Blue Brake Fluid - $25 Front Brake Rotors / Duralast from Autozone - $90 a pair Rear Brake Rotors / Duralast from Autozone - $70 a pair Brake job - $170 My entire brake job was $515 maybe $550 with shipping all the material. I'm a college student too so I try to look everywhere to cut costs but not cut corners. I think this brake set up is good enough in the street for me. I'm not into AutoX or tracking, but I can tell you this set up provides enough bite for me. Dusting is much much lower than OEM, and the EBC's make a bit of noise at first but fades out after some breaking in. EBC greenstuff pads allow the sensor to fit and perform better than OEM, and the brake rotors already meet or atleast exceed OEM brake rotors. For me, this is the best cost/effective set up for me. I think this set up might benefit you as well since what you said your originally looking for is low dust, low noise, decent performance, last long (depends on your driving style) and won't break your wallet. This set up meets those standards. If you want a bit better performance, get a set of stainless steel brake lines for about $100 bucks. If you get hawks, mintex, etc. the performance for them all is similar, and the difference isn't that noticeable for daily driving; I say get the ones you can find the best deal on. On another note, if you want the best of all worlds, performance, price, longevity, try to find a decently used set of R56 wheels. All you need is SS brake lines to run R56 wheels, and it's equivalent to running a R53 JCW brake kit. I've seen them go for $350 to $500. Their hard to find, but occasionally pops up. I'm trying to find a set for myself. Sorry if my grammar is off. Late at night... |
I got 45,000 miles out of a set of Mintex pads, lol.
Money well spent! |
I would just make sure you have the four Torx bolts that hold the rotors in place. Three of mine had to be drilled out when they were frozen in the hub and sheared right off... a three hour job went to six and a half. This on my '05 MCS.
Also: use anti-sieze when installing the new bolts. I'm sure your mechanic will have it. |
If the brakes have not worn enough to reach the sensors, WHY are you even CONSIDERING brake work? Is your wallet too thick and causing backside misalignment when you sit down?
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The OP said that it was inspected, and he's due for brakes soon. With his sensor light on, he'd have less than 2,000 safe driving with the remaining pad life. If he's already low, how many miles can he go before he switches it? He also wants to get it done because he can get a discount labor rate currently.
Even if his wallet is too thick it is NOT your concern. |
Originally Posted by LilRedMini
(Post 2698506)
If the brakes have not worn enough to reach the sensors, WHY are you even CONSIDERING brake work? Is your wallet too thick and causing backside misalignment when you sit down?
I am in the same boat. My sensor has not gone off, but by looking at the pad it is very close to it. If you change them now, maybe at the most 3,000 before needing to, you can save having to buy and instal new sensors. Once the sensor goes off it is done and you have to replace it. Adding more time/cost to the swap out. Also by the time I actually make an decision as to what I want to do, the sensor will probably go off. If I start looking now I avoid a rush decision. |
That was basically my thought process too. When I pulled my front pads off they actually looked like they had a bit of life left on them, but I AutoX so I knew that as soon as the season started back up the pads would be going bye-bye. Furthermore it was something that was going to have to be done eventually, and the OEM pads were starting to feel a bit tired, so I basically said "may as well do it now".
Here is a cost breakdown BTW: -Axxis Ultimates: $64 shipped (from ImportRP) -Centric Rotors: $78 shipped (from RockAuto) -Assorted tools and lube: ~$25 I did it myself, it is not a hard job to do if you have access to the tools. |
Did my brake job for just under 300.00 my self 2 weeks ago. I bought stock blanks and did a slot very close to the TSW rotors at a friends machine shop just using a bridge port.
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Originally Posted by MrCooperS
(Post 2698518)
The OP said that it was inspected, and he's due for brakes soon. With his sensor light on, he'd have less than 2,000 safe driving with the remaining pad life. If he's already low, how many miles can he go before he switches it? He also wants to get it done because he can get a discount labor rate currently.
Even if his wallet is too thick it is NOT your concern. |
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