R50/53 Clutch job
Clutch job
I've got a clutch job to do soon. The clutch is slipping in 4th and 5th at 50%-100% throttle, more so once the car fully warms up. I've already found the "Clutch, Flywheel, and Quaife Install Overview", which will be very helpful.
My question is about the flywheel, I'm planning on having it resurfaced but can't find any vendors that sell the replacement flywheel bolts. Can I reuse the current ones? Any ideas on where to get replacements?
Is either the Sachs or Valeo OEM replacement better than the other?
BTW - 2003 MC 42,000 miles, just purchased in September. The PO lived on a military base in a small town, so I figure lots of short trips killed the clutch.
My question is about the flywheel, I'm planning on having it resurfaced but can't find any vendors that sell the replacement flywheel bolts. Can I reuse the current ones? Any ideas on where to get replacements?
Is either the Sachs or Valeo OEM replacement better than the other?
BTW - 2003 MC 42,000 miles, just purchased in September. The PO lived on a military base in a small town, so I figure lots of short trips killed the clutch.
I've heard that you cannot resurface the dual mass flywheel. Do a search on other threads on NAM, or contact a couple dealerships to be sure. Good luck...true to navycav3's word...the clutch is a tough job.
BTW - 2003 MC 42,000 miles, just purchased in September. The PO lived on a military base in a small town, so I figure lots of short trips killed the clutch.
*****
What kills clutches is abuse and/or poor technique.
YD
*****
What kills clutches is abuse and/or poor technique.
YD
BMW says that you need to replace the flywheel, so you probably dont want to resurface it. The thing is also damn heavy and damn expensive to replace, it would probably make more sense to pick up some sort of aftermarket deal.
The OEM LuK sourced MINI clutches are pure CRAP.
I have been driving manual transmissions for nearly 25 years. 12 years of Hondas/Acuras never had any clutch issues.
My 2005 R53 S had its factory clutch replaced under warranty at 25K Miles. I am at 51K and the clutch is again giving signs of going south
.Pure junk. I don't ride the clutch, I do not abuse the car in any way shape of form. Flywheel glazed (Morning squeal out of first) and the clutch pedal is farting again, in the same exact way it did 26K miles ago.
After the 100K mile MINI Extended warranty ends, I am going aftermarket.
And my next MINI will be auto. No more crappola LuK clutches and flywheels for me. The Getrag is excellent, I wish Getrag also had done the clutch components.
Thanks!
mb
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We'll definitely go aftermarket the first time we have to pay for it. If the local MINI dealer doesn't offer, support, and install an aftermarket clutch, that will be what drives us to an independent shop for all of our service. I kind of hate to do that, because we've had good experiences overall with the dealer, but the thought of spending north of $2,000 every 15k miles to replace it with a factory clutch just does not appeal to me.
What are some of the specific signs of a failing clutch, and what does it mean for a clutch to fart? I'm asking because I was accelerating the other day and the car seemed to "miss" or "pause" between 5.5 and 6.6 k. I guess it could have been a belt slip or an electric miss, I'm just trying to trouble-shoot.
Thanks!
mb
Thanks!
mb
My clutch is not to that point yet. I have no problems changing gears under acceleration. The "Farting" clutch refers to the aweful "Rubber rubbing against rubber" noise when you depress the pedal. If you press the pedal slowly, you feel like the clutch is grabbing and rubbing against something, not a smooth and silent pedal motion. Sounds like if the pedal had no lubricant (Which it isn't the case).
So I think I am due for yet another new clutch and flywheel. How exciting eh?
I am glad I got the extended MINI service contract that covers these components. But after 100K miles, I will switch to aftermarket clutch components. At this point I have no confidence on the stock OEM parts.
On the other hand, the 6-speed manual Getrag is terrific. I haven't had a lick of a problem with the transmission itself. The culprit has been the clutch assembly so far.
And by the way, these clutch and flywheel problems seem to be alive and well in the newer R56 MINIs. BMW needs to get their act together and either find a new supplier or put the tabs on LuK and demand better quality hardware.
What are some of the specific signs of a failing clutch, and what does it mean for a clutch to fart? I'm asking because I was accelerating the other day and the car seemed to "miss" or "pause" between 5.5 and 6.6 k. I guess it could have been a belt slip or an electric miss, I'm just trying to trouble-shoot.
Thanks!
mb
Thanks!
mb
Get on the road in 4th or 5th gear 40mph or so and start giving it more and more throttle. If the RPMs start rising quickly without a corresponding increase in speed, slippage has occurred
so start saving your pennies!
Well, my car has been booked for a dealer service visit next week. MY SA has been provided with all the necessary information, including a copy of the current TSB for the squealing dual mass flywheel.
I am glad to have purchased the MINI Extended Service Contract. If the new flywheel and clutch kit are fully covered by the extended service agreement, It will had payed itself back TWICE.
My dealer charges $2,500 to replace the clutch/flywheel. This includes their $130 per hour labor rate (Figure 9-10 hours to do the job). I paid $1,400 for the MINI Extended service contract back in August 2007. Best money ever spent.
I will keep the thread up to date. I don't expect any problems with the clutch/FW replacement next week. Also the dealer will provide a loaner vehicle (Hopefully a MINI and not a gas guzzling Enterprise rental).
I am glad to have purchased the MINI Extended Service Contract. If the new flywheel and clutch kit are fully covered by the extended service agreement, It will had payed itself back TWICE.
My dealer charges $2,500 to replace the clutch/flywheel. This includes their $130 per hour labor rate (Figure 9-10 hours to do the job). I paid $1,400 for the MINI Extended service contract back in August 2007. Best money ever spent.
I will keep the thread up to date. I don't expect any problems with the clutch/FW replacement next week. Also the dealer will provide a loaner vehicle (Hopefully a MINI and not a gas guzzling Enterprise rental).
Well, I dropped off my R53 Cooper S this morning at the dealer. Haven't yet heard from them, but will update the thread as needed. It was a great drive up there (About 30 miles).
They gave me a brand new 2009 R56 Cooper S hardtop automatic loaner with only 400 miles! I am enjoying the heck out of that car. Very nice and tightly built. This one is Astro Black metallic (I heard that this color was gone for '09?) with white roof. Only options on this one are the automatic transmission, MFSW and it appears to have the "Sports suspension" as it rides somewhat firmer than my Clubman S auto.
Very, very nice car. But I want my R53 S back, with a new clutch and flywheel please!
They gave me a brand new 2009 R56 Cooper S hardtop automatic loaner with only 400 miles! I am enjoying the heck out of that car. Very nice and tightly built. This one is Astro Black metallic (I heard that this color was gone for '09?) with white roof. Only options on this one are the automatic transmission, MFSW and it appears to have the "Sports suspension" as it rides somewhat firmer than my Clubman S auto.
Very, very nice car. But I want my R53 S back, with a new clutch and flywheel please!
Well, my SA just called me over the Nextel radio and indeed confirmed that my car needs a new dual mass flywheel and clutch. Both repairs will be done under the TSB I posted in this thread and my MINI Extended Service upgrade will pick up the $2,600 tab!
I am beyond happy with the excellent service provided by my SA and Lauderdale MINI.
I was given an ETA of tomorrow to have the car ready.
I am beyond happy with the excellent service provided by my SA and Lauderdale MINI.
I was given an ETA of tomorrow to have the car ready.
Ours has been replaced twice now (under warranty) and we're only at 33,000 miles.
We'll definitely go aftermarket the first time we have to pay for it. If the local MINI dealer doesn't offer, support, and install an aftermarket clutch, that will be what drives us to an independent shop for all of our service. I kind of hate to do that, because we've had good experiences overall with the dealer, but the thought of spending north of $2,000 every 15k miles to replace it with a factory clutch just does not appeal to me.
We'll definitely go aftermarket the first time we have to pay for it. If the local MINI dealer doesn't offer, support, and install an aftermarket clutch, that will be what drives us to an independent shop for all of our service. I kind of hate to do that, because we've had good experiences overall with the dealer, but the thought of spending north of $2,000 every 15k miles to replace it with a factory clutch just does not appeal to me.
The 'farting' that some describe is, I believe, related to the throw-out-bearing carrier riding back and forth along a tube that covers the input shaft of the transmission. Something about the design, choice of materials, lack of lubrication, etc. makes for a mechanical sensation that is distinctly unpleasant. I complained to the dealer while mine was still under warranty and was told to learn to live with it.
The 'farting' that some describe is, I believe, related to the throw-out-bearing carrier riding back and forth along a tube that covers the input shaft of the transmission. Something about the design, choice of materials, lack of lubrication, etc. makes for a mechanical sensation that is distinctly unpleasant. I complained to the dealer while mine was still under warranty and was told to learn to live with it.
It is indeed a defect of the OEM LuK sourced clutches. Nothing but crap
Your dealer should have replaced your clutch and flywheel under warranty
It seems you have a lazy dealer that is not interested in repairing your car under warranty
Get a second opinion. Clutch related noises are simply NOT NORMAL and can lead to further/costly damage down the road.
Happy ending to my clutch saga. I just came back from picking up my R53 S and the new clutch and flywheel fitted are in one word: PERFECT!
Many thanks to the fine folks at MINIUSA and Lauderdale MINI for 5 star service. The car was kept for 2 days, I was provided a new 2009 R56 S hardtop automatic loaner (Sweet car!) and MINI picked up 100% of the tab for parts and labor (Final bill was $2,600).
Needless to say, I am very happy. The new clutch is very, very light, but feels solid and the gearbox is more responsive. Let's see how long this new clutch and FW will last.
So far MINI has paid for 2 brand new clutches on their dime. About US$5,000 worth of clutch repairs covered by MINI.
Many thanks to the fine folks at MINIUSA and Lauderdale MINI for 5 star service. The car was kept for 2 days, I was provided a new 2009 R56 S hardtop automatic loaner (Sweet car!) and MINI picked up 100% of the tab for parts and labor (Final bill was $2,600).
Needless to say, I am very happy. The new clutch is very, very light, but feels solid and the gearbox is more responsive. Let's see how long this new clutch and FW will last.
So far MINI has paid for 2 brand new clutches on their dime. About US$5,000 worth of clutch repairs covered by MINI.
If you bust *** you can do the job in 4 hours pretty easily. Thats with air tools and a good manual.
I believe ARP sells flywheel bolts for the MINI.
You also need a set of inverted Torx bits, get them before you start. I got very pissed when I saw them on the pressure plate and had to scream to Sears before they closed to get a set of them. I would also get all new pressure plate bolts, mine were on there pretty good, I didn't wanna need to go back in there for a set of $25 bolts.
I believe ARP sells flywheel bolts for the MINI.
You also need a set of inverted Torx bits, get them before you start. I got very pissed when I saw them on the pressure plate and had to scream to Sears before they closed to get a set of them. I would also get all new pressure plate bolts, mine were on there pretty good, I didn't wanna need to go back in there for a set of $25 bolts.
My clutch pedal does the "farting" when I push it in...but other than that theres no slipping, loud noises/whining/whistling, or any other problems. But still plan on changing out the clutch/flywheel early next year when I get som bills paid off. It's been making the sound for a while now, but still no other symptoms.....kinda odd to me.
Just came across this. Sorry to hear about some of your woes. For others reading this, I don't know if I'd say the OEM clutch is known to fail. I have about 100k miles on my R53s (the first one I sold at 74k miles) all with the original clutches and flywheels. That's with two track days a year and an autocross or two. Maybe I'm just lucky.
Just came across this. Sorry to hear about some of your woes. For others reading this, I don't know if I'd say the OEM clutch is known to fail. I have about 100k miles on my R53s (the first one I sold at 74k miles) all with the original clutches and flywheels. That's with two track days a year and an autocross or two. Maybe I'm just lucky.
I think the LuK clutch and flywheel likes track punishment. The more you baby the thing the more unreliable it gets
My '03 has about 64K on the original clutch assy, and other than the chewbacca sound on cold mornings in 1st gear, it's fine, and it doesn't even do that with any regularity.
My dealer tells me the noise is due to glazing of the flywheel surface but I think this is a cop out, I've driven enough clutches to know when one's glazed. But having said that I wonder what does cause the noise and why it only does it cold and in first gear?
My dealer tells me the noise is due to glazing of the flywheel surface but I think this is a cop out, I've driven enough clutches to know when one's glazed. But having said that I wonder what does cause the noise and why it only does it cold and in first gear?



