R50/53 Whats the best oil to put in?
#1
#7
Trending Topics
#9
#10
Oil Preference
I'm using AmsOil; the results have been really good. I will continue to monitor the gas milage a few more months before I make any claims though.
I think that you will find there are a wide variety of oils being used in the MINI. I think most are pretty dang good (AmsOil, Mobile 1, Royal Purple, Castrol Syntec, etc, etc); the MOST important tip I can give is to perform regular maintenance and change your oil, not only based upon miles driven, but also based upon the climate/driving conditions.
I am a 7000 mile oil change kind of guy. I don't think changing your oil (if using a quality synthetic) earlier than that will reap you any benefits. If I drive cross country and go through a dusty, extremely hot area (Texas, Arizona, New Mexico for example), I will usually change the oil sooner; it just depends upon how long I am in those conditions.
Good quality synthetic + good maintenance practices makes for a happy MINI!
I think that you will find there are a wide variety of oils being used in the MINI. I think most are pretty dang good (AmsOil, Mobile 1, Royal Purple, Castrol Syntec, etc, etc); the MOST important tip I can give is to perform regular maintenance and change your oil, not only based upon miles driven, but also based upon the climate/driving conditions.
I am a 7000 mile oil change kind of guy. I don't think changing your oil (if using a quality synthetic) earlier than that will reap you any benefits. If I drive cross country and go through a dusty, extremely hot area (Texas, Arizona, New Mexico for example), I will usually change the oil sooner; it just depends upon how long I am in those conditions.
Good quality synthetic + good maintenance practices makes for a happy MINI!
#12
what is this that you speak of? and where did you get it?
#13
Search the forum for oil change and similar words. You'll find at least three recent threads on oils, to include reports on lab analysis, specs, etc.
I didn't know choosing an oil could be so complicated. I even got chided (nicely) for choosing Mobil 1 Extended for my first home change because it only meets the owner's manual specs, not the A3 rating, which is what MINIs and BMWs require in Europe.
I didn't know choosing an oil could be so complicated. I even got chided (nicely) for choosing Mobil 1 Extended for my first home change because it only meets the owner's manual specs, not the A3 rating, which is what MINIs and BMWs require in Europe.
#14
Vegetable Oil. No kidding.
http://www.renewablelube.com/
Terry Dyson at Dyson Analysis is a big fan of this stuff... supposedly outperforms synthetics in a variety of ways (cold engine protection so you can drive hard right from the start, better ring sealing for less fuel dilution, low wear, long life). The numbers I've seen look impressive. Scott Riqui is running it now, I'm going to be running it. We'll see how the numbers look in our cars...
I'm not running it because it's "green"... I'm running it because an expert I trust believes I'll get more engine life from this stuff. Worth a try. Frequent oil analysis will tell me if he's right...
http://www.renewablelube.com/
Terry Dyson at Dyson Analysis is a big fan of this stuff... supposedly outperforms synthetics in a variety of ways (cold engine protection so you can drive hard right from the start, better ring sealing for less fuel dilution, low wear, long life). The numbers I've seen look impressive. Scott Riqui is running it now, I'm going to be running it. We'll see how the numbers look in our cars...
I'm not running it because it's "green"... I'm running it because an expert I trust believes I'll get more engine life from this stuff. Worth a try. Frequent oil analysis will tell me if he's right...
Last edited by BlimeyCabrio; 05-14-2008 at 04:06 AM.
#15
#17
The BioSyn is looking like some real good stuff so far, at least in my car. I've had a 6,000-mile analyses done already, and I should have the results of the 10,000-mile analysis later this week.
But, I found the "virgin" specifications for the BioSyn 5W-30 tonight and compared them to the results of my 6,000-mile analysis. (Specs for fresh oil in blue, specs after 6,000 miles in red):
Viscosity at 40° C - 59 56.3
Viscosity at 100° C - 10.8 10.3
Viscosity Index - 177 175
Flashpoint - 419° F 410° F
So from a viscosity breakdown/flashpoint reduction standpoint, the BioSyn has hardly changed at all after 6,000 miles compared to when it was new. I'm really excited to see how the numbers look after 10,000 miles. On all the tests I've had done on the MINI oil, it was just about shot by 9-10,000 miles, so I'm curious to see how the BioSyn compares.
But, I found the "virgin" specifications for the BioSyn 5W-30 tonight and compared them to the results of my 6,000-mile analysis. (Specs for fresh oil in blue, specs after 6,000 miles in red):
Viscosity at 40° C - 59 56.3
Viscosity at 100° C - 10.8 10.3
Viscosity Index - 177 175
Flashpoint - 419° F 410° F
So from a viscosity breakdown/flashpoint reduction standpoint, the BioSyn has hardly changed at all after 6,000 miles compared to when it was new. I'm really excited to see how the numbers look after 10,000 miles. On all the tests I've had done on the MINI oil, it was just about shot by 9-10,000 miles, so I'm curious to see how the BioSyn compares.
#18
Like-
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...d.php?t=132949
Jiffy lube is fine if the person knows what to do and you use full synthetic oil of the right weight.
I buy the oil and filter/O ring and take it to Goodyear and they do it for $19 labor but oil discard fee.
Many good oils out there- your choice.
The dealer will always use Castrol Syntec 5W-30 oil.
I have used-
Royal Purple
Amsoil
Redline
Mobil 1
Castrol Syntec
#20
#21
A favorite oil????
Well I do race so that is why I have been using Royal Purple and redline.
Otherwise I think Amsoil and Mobil 1 are very good as well.
Castrol Syntec I get only when I do the dealership oil changes.
For those who race there is also-
PRO R 0W-20 Racing Oil is an entirely new concept in competition lubrication. Racing engines lose power and waste fuel energy due to oil drag and friction. This maximum power 0W-20 is a unique low viscosity synthetic which cuts oil drag yet maintains a tough low-wear film on highly stressed components. Specially researched friction modifier chemistry relies upon electrostatic adhesion to attack friction at crucial points in valve and power train systems - two sources of hidden power which give that vital edge in acceleration and full throttle output.
CAUTION: Strictly for professional racing and track use only. Some older engines may have inadequate oil pump capacity under race conditions to maintain full oil pressure with this low viscosity product.
4 Litres Price: £83.43 inc vat
----------
Not cheap but maybe a bit more power. Need to change oil more often.
Maybe good for track and drag racing.
So can I tell the difference in oils? Nope. I do change them before they start to get too old so I'm not really wanting to be able to tell a difference in terms of engine responsiveness.
#22
#23
oh yes it is, the Mobil 1 0W-40 stuff.... both ACEA A3/B3 and BMW LL-01 certified too. good stuff. Though I prefer the German Castrol 0w-30 first. My preference would be:
GC 0W-30, BMW 5W-30, and then Mobil 1 0W-40. All good oils.
GC is a "heavy" 30, Mobil 1 is a "light" 40.
Note, the BMW 5W-30 is not the same Castrol 5W-30 "crap" you can get at Autozone or Checker. Buy it from the dealer, it's the good European blend.
GC 0W-30, BMW 5W-30, and then Mobil 1 0W-40. All good oils.
GC is a "heavy" 30, Mobil 1 is a "light" 40.
Note, the BMW 5W-30 is not the same Castrol 5W-30 "crap" you can get at Autozone or Checker. Buy it from the dealer, it's the good European blend.
#24
#25
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php