Replacing rotors today- car up in the air- don't have the right size wrench bit to remove rotors-
Search didn't help much- tool store closes soon!! TIA

Search didn't help much- tool store closes soon!! TIA
5th Gear
Those Torx screws can be a pain to remove. Back in 05 when I got my new MINI, I jacked up the car, removed the wheels, removed the Torx Screws, applied anti-seize to them and the lug bolts, and put everything back together.
Overkill? Maybe, but when I installed the JCW Brakes two years and 52K miles later, everything came apart easily.
A little bit of PM work on a new car reaps vast rewards later on.
Rawhyde
PS Another trick is to remove the spark plugs, apply anti-seize to the threads, and reinstall them.
Overkill? Maybe, but when I installed the JCW Brakes two years and 52K miles later, everything came apart easily.
A little bit of PM work on a new car reaps vast rewards later on.
Rawhyde
PS Another trick is to remove the spark plugs, apply anti-seize to the threads, and reinstall them.
6th Gear
I use a little motorcycle impact driver with a T-50 bit and haven't had any trouble breaking them loose


6th Gear
Quote:
Yep this is the way to go.Originally Posted by Uncle_John
I use a little motorcycle impact driver with a T-50 bit and haven't had any trouble breaking them loose
Got a torx set but 3 of them snapped off leaving part of the bolt threads inside the hub
. Drilled them out and cleaned the threads with a tap- finally got everything clean and replaced the rotors. WHAT a pain- and yes I put anti-seize on them for next time!!
Luckily I found replacement bolts at a local hardware store- they had a 8mm hex fitting instead of the torx fitting.
Gotta love all that salt they put on Iowa roads in the winter...
. Drilled them out and cleaned the threads with a tap- finally got everything clean and replaced the rotors. WHAT a pain- and yes I put anti-seize on them for next time!! Luckily I found replacement bolts at a local hardware store- they had a 8mm hex fitting instead of the torx fitting.
Gotta love all that salt they put on Iowa roads in the winter...
3rd Gear
Quote:
Good thing it was only striped. If it were stripped, now that could have been a problem.Originally Posted by vdubdoug
one of mine striped last night. Out came the drill
6th Gear
Quote:
Good thing it was only striped. If it were stripped, now that could have been a problem.
IMO even if those torx bolts were left out it would be fine. When the wheel is bolted in place the rotor is held in place by the wheel.Good thing it was only striped. If it were stripped, now that could have been a problem.
SLK, glad you won the battle with the rusty bolts.
5th Gear
I agree with Crashton. The only purpose of those bolts is to keep the holes in your hub aligned with the holes in your rotor when you put the wheel lug bolts back in. Anti seize is a must, but I only snug them tight, the back them out 1/2 turn so they won't be a pain next time.
Don't forget to put anti seize on the center right of the hub where it meets the center hole in your wheel. Tire Rack says don't put anti seize on your lug bolt threads, but I do anyway. I have done this all my life with no issues.
YD
Don't forget to put anti seize on the center right of the hub where it meets the center hole in your wheel. Tire Rack says don't put anti seize on your lug bolt threads, but I do anyway. I have done this all my life with no issues.
YD
I also wondered about just leaving the damned things off as well if I hadn't been able to drill out the broken off studs. 4 lug bolts torqued on hold the whole thing together anyway...
And I put a little anti-seize on the lug bolts as well- with all the salt used around here in the winter I figure it's a good idea.
And I put a little anti-seize on the lug bolts as well- with all the salt used around here in the winter I figure it's a good idea.
6th Gear
Why didn't they just put in a stubby pin from the backside to fit the hole in the rotor? Seems simple and easy. But what do I know?
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