Looking for a winter project and have stumbled up on a 1971 model. Doesn't look too molested, dash is all there and not cut up, wiring looks great, glass is intact, new exterior trim in a box, lights are there. Body looks straight and solid, but it is in primer. I didn't feel any indication of rocker panel rot and the floor pan lip/rocker panel edge is straight and even on both sides, inner fender wells feel solid, etc ..........

But I know there is that "special place" that these things show their age, anyone know?? Are there any big concerns with this model year, I know they changed over in 75, but every year seems to have their issues.

TIA

 

I'd suggest you check the edges of the hatch lid and the inside sill of the hatch window. Mine rusted there.

Other than that, and I'm searching through the fog of an aging memory to a car twenty years gone, I don't recall any issues that would be model year specific.

Plan on rewiring. Possibly several times. One of the reasons why my MGB-GT went on down the road was I got tired of rewiring sections of the dashboard in 7-11 parking lots at three in the morning. Mine had a disappointing propensity for letting all of the phlogisten out of the wires.

And, to tell the truth, I miss that car still.

 

Thanks! I was pleasantly surprised at the lack of cancer on this one. I've done my share of older VW rebuilds and was expecting lots of the stuff! I'll check those areas a little closer.

I did get into the rear hatch and noted a few small spots (quarter sized) where the rear apron attaches. Absolutely nothing on the bottom of the doors, which really surprised me.

I figured on a bunch of wiring issues, and I think I've still got a can or two of smoke up in the cupboard!

 

Sometimes, you can find "official" Lucas wiring smoke on ebay

 

My Father has restored a number of MGB's. This is his standard answer.....

The sills are the biggest worry as they are structural. Often people put on an outer-sill which makes it look OK, but fail to fix the issues 'under the skin'. Look for sagging - the gaps at the tops of the doors close in, and they widen at the bottom, if this is the case, open the door, and stand on the sill, raise and lower your weight and if the gaps change - run away, fast. Often this 'trick' will mean that the door becomes difficult to close.

The shell may be rescuable, but unless you have access to a lot of welding gear and a lot of time on your hands, this is not the best shell you can start with.

On a roadster this is probably a death sentance for the shell, on a 'GT; you need to weld in temporary supports and cut out the rotten pieces and pay a lot of attention to ensuring that the gaps are all retained.

While you are checking that area, check the jackling points. In fact jack the car up - if the jack disappears (likely) or the sill bends around the jack, it may be an idea to walk away.

The floors are the next issue - the mats are very good at staying damp - add warmth and you are really developing a nice place for rust to develop Check the floors, carefully - remember that they will hold your weight - do not feel bad about pressing onto them hard - if your foot goes through - again this is likely - limp away

Check out the front fenders - on early cars the inner arch lining often fell out or was put in incorrectly, water is trapped at the back of the fenders - near the sills, and the whole area rusts away quietly. Not a terrible job, but replacing the fender is much better than patching it. Sometimes this rust will spread to the bulkhead too - this is a plating job and rather difficult to get at without major disassembly work.

The Fenders are generally poor, and will rust in numerous places. Best to check with a magnet - especially around the headlights - a relatively easy place to 'fill'. The first time you find out, unless you check it' is when the headlight disappears when you are drivng home one night in the rain (it happened to me). The rear fenders also rust voraciously under the rear lights and around the 'crease'.

Doors are simpy horrible - the bottom edge accumulates water because the drainage holes get blocked and buy the time the paint starts to bubble you are looking at major door repairs. Possibly worse though is that the window frames crack and fail due to the relatively small amount of metal that holds them in place - remember to always use the door handle to open and close the door - not the window frame. If it is cracked it is a horrible job to repair - many people say that you cannot repair them once cracked.

Assuming you manage to find a decent shell, or at least one that only has a few of the above faults, the next issue is the electrics. In my fathers words 'Forget the loom that is in the car and order a new one' Simple as that really, the electrics where not that good in the 70's and they will not have healed during the last 30 years or so. A new loom is really good insurance. If it has a dynamo update it to an alternator - you will not regret this at all.

The engines where pretty bullet proof, but often overheated due to poor maintenance, check the oil pressure (50+ is healthy at 3K under load), check for water in the oil (headgasket etc) and check that the engine is not excessively oily the rocker cover gaskets start to leak and the only fix involves a lot of cleaning/degreasing effort that feel high disproportionate to the size of the gasket - but then so is the size of the oil pool on the floor when they leak. The gearbox should be smooth and OD will probably work in 3rd and 4th depending on the year - it too should be smooth shifting. If OD is broken it could be any number of problems ranging from solenoids and dirty filters upwards - The gearbox is probably the most expensive piece to fix. The Clutch suffers many issues - mainly the hydraulics have problems. Bleeding it and replacing seals becomese a way of life unless you get a 'post 77' master for it which apparently had a number of fixes. The slave is a pig too - but I beleive that too was redesigned at some point.

Suspension and brakes are no-brainer upgradeable items - most of the parts are easy to source and given the nature of the simplistic componentry easy to work on too - my father tells me that a rebuilt front suspension unit is cheaper from heritage (whoever they are) than a seal kit and the specialist tools required to change the seals.....

Put simply

If the body is good, replace the loom and everything else will be fairly easy to do.

If the body is bad - walk away

 

Max, outstanding info thanks

As mentioned I'd checked the doors bottoms, I didn't mention that I also swung and tried to move both doors up and down, more so to check hinge points but I'm always worried about A-pillar issues when the wheel is soooo close to the door frame. The car was a little close to other cars and I couldn't open the doors up wide, but I'll be sure to stand on the door sills when we go back and pull it out.

I've done some welding and repair of rockers and heater channels on the older airbox vw's and I know I don't want to do that again. Like you said, lots of bracing to assure alignment.

The car has an original jack and I'll give that tip a try. Both jack points are there and felt sound when I tried moving them.

I also looked at the front shock mounts and they looked good too, but I didn't check up next to the fire wall, so I'll do that too.

And I've already loaded up the magnet to bring, hopefully there isn't any metal flake mixed in.

The engine is a non issue. Not that it's perfect....... more like it doesn't run "at this time". It ran awhile ago, but the current owner has removed a few items for rebuild, the carbs being one of them. He's a machinist and the son of a machinist and the rebuild on the clutch and master cylinder he did looks great. I'm thinking that the engine might be the best place to start during the cold winter months.

I've enlisted our work neighbor to come and help me inspect it. He's got a body shop and will more then likely do the respray.

Once again thanks for the great info! Got any preferred parts places?

 

B-GT? No.

Would an MGB owner who has also owned an MGC and an MGC-GT do?

Favorite rust areas: Rocker panels, boot, floor pan, bottom of the wings (fenders), bottom of the doors.

Look for the MG Door Cracks. Cracks will often appear in the door skin just around the wind-wing. People have a bad habit of using the door to help push themselves out of the car.

How's the compression? Checked for a cracked head.

Check the heater control valve, they love to leak after a time.

Give the driveshaft a good shake to see if the u-joints are good.

Buy the Robert Bentley Press, Complete Official MGB 1962-1974.

The MG Owners Club in the UK used to publish the factory parts catalog. Fantastic for exploded view drawings, and seeing what's correct.

Lastly, go here and order their free MGB catalog. http://www.mossmotors.com/home.aspx

 

Gromit, I knew you'd show up, when I searched about for any previous MG threads, you kept popping up

I'll be bringing a battery with me but I don't hold out much hope of getting it to turn over. I'm hoping to just be able to bump it through, although that might be better left to after the Marvin's has had a chance to work it's magic

And I just requested a MGB cat from Moss last night, with my mini order. Free shipping through Thursday night


Man I love this board

 

You are very welcome !

Preffered places - not in the US - My father, living in the UK, has used British Motor Heritage a lot in the past for many parts.

http://www.bmh-ltd.com/mgbparts.htm

looks like there are a few places in the US to get parts though

http://www.bmh-ltd.com/directory.htm#2

Looks like you can get absolutely everything - but do not forget to replace the wiring loom as your first job - its a total nightmare to swap it out on a fully assembled car (first hand experience)....

 

Smokey, check with the MGOC in the UK if you want to see some interesting stuff. Moss can make you nuts with some of the go fast goodies, MGOC is another planet. Too bad some of their stuff is RHD only.

 

Good posts regarding the tin worm. In the drivetrain area, does your GT have overdrive? This is a wonderful option and will add both enjoyment and longer life to the engine. A 71 has several undesirable features that can be switched out: the Abingdon pillow dash with no ventilation nor glovebox; vinyl seats; recessed (pre-crashed) grill from the factory; air pump emission system. It also has some great features absent from early or late cars such as: full syncro-gear box (not on early); chrome bumpers (not on late); dual S.U. carbs (not on late).

These mid-series MGBs are very good vehicles, not as expensive as the early cars, not as problematic as the later ones, for many people they are just right.

 

I have both a 71 MGB and 68 MGB-GT. If the rust is not too bad everything else is easy. The 71 floor pans had rusted away from setting outside with only a tarp covering it and the carpet staying wet. The 68 GT was a rust free Texas car.

Go here for two great forums:
http://www.mgexperience.net
http://www.mgcars.org.uk

 

Thanks MGC man. And mowoger that MG experience site is great, I can see myself spending hours there, thanks......I think!