I need some input. I will be running these off of my Sony Xplod ES head unit with 52wx4. I do put a high price on clarity but I also put a high price on full well rounded sound with good bass extension. I already have a sub in the boot that is more that adequate. My HU has a 7 band (+/- 12db) EQ and low pass/high pass filters built in that let me do pretty extensive tuning. I also demo'd a couple sets of Infinity 6.5's and while they were quite clear, I was very unimpressed with their low frequency extension (or lack thereof) and I just felt like their clarity would fade at that the kind of volume I like. Maybe I am wrong here.

I would like to bring my front soundstage up and gain more richness that the stock speakers give me. I am also looking for a system that would allow me to direct a little more bass to the front of the car instead of all of it coming from the back.

These are the two systems I like best for my budget....under $200 bucks.

Talk amongst yourselves.




Features:
Aramid Fiber Composite Cone Woofer
Butyl Rubber Woofer Surround
Die-Cast Aluminum Woofer Basket
Voice Cool Cooling System (VCCS) with Aluminum Dust Cap
Copper Clad Aluminum Wire (CCAW) Voice Coil
Glass-Imide / Copper Voice Coil Former
Conex Spider
Gold-Plated Woofer Binding Posts
1" Laminated Polyester Fiber Soft Dome Tweeter
Magnetic Fluid Tweeter Cooling
Surface, Angled, and Flush Swivel Tweeter Mounting Hardware
Outboard 12 dB / Octave Crossover
Integrated Tweeter Protection and Tweeter Level Control (0 or –3 dB)
Satin Finish Twisted Grilles
Includes 3-Hole Chrysler Adapters

System Specifications:


Size: 6 1/2
Sensitivity: 90 dB
Frequency Response: 25-32,000 Hz
Recommended RMS Power: 60W
Peak Power Handling: 250W
Impedance: 4 ohms


=============>>>>OR<<<<==============


Key Features:

Layered Hybrid Fiber woofer cone
air-injected rubber surround
1" textile dome tweeter swivels up to 15° (surface and flush mounting)
2-way crossover (12 dB/octave high-pass, 6 dB/octave low-pass)
frequency response 35-35,000 Hz
recommended power range 8-50 watts RMS
peak power handling 250 watts
sensitivity 90 dB
top-mount depth 2-1/2"

 

Biggripper, I'm curious what other will suggest but let me throw this out there. I used to run a car audio store and when people would come in with limited budgets we used to try to get them into a step by step process so their car would sound better each time they installed something. Rather than put new speakers in right now you may want to think about a decent two or four channel amp for your current speakers. It's amazing how much better stock speakers can sound with more power. I know your headunit claims high power but compared to a dedicated amp it really isn't. A classic problem we would see is when someone would add decent speakers and underpower them. This can damage the speaker and never let the speaker reach it's potential. You must remember that power is control not just volume. The amp actually starts and stops the motion of the speaker, the more power the more accurately it can do that. A good amp may be slightly out of your $200.00 budget right now but I feel would give you greater listening pleasure for the long haul. This is just my opinion, let's see what some of the others think too. Either way take your time and build your system with your needs in mind and enjoy the process!

 

I've never been a Pioneer fan of their audio equipment. I've always used Alpine and had nothing but good luck with their stuff.

ALPINE ALL THE WAY!!!

 

I have used pioneer in the past and never had any problems. I

 

I would look at getting a 2 channel amp & amping some new front speakers whilst using the rears for fill in.

 

I may add the amp later but for now I have to go with the speakers. I am open to suggestions for a small and inexpensive amp to use in the future.

 

Memphis speakers!

 

Picking speakers is one of the most personal aspects of the audio experience. Don't worry about which brand people here (me included) think is best. Each speaker is going to have it's own signature. You should go to an audio store that lets you compare speakers head to head. If they don't carry both brands your comparing give each a good listen and trust your instincts. Remember what you like about each speaker. Make sure you take music with you that you like and have heard numerous times. Also since you are not going with an amp make sure they are only using head unit power. Then listen to them with an amp to see how much difference it will make. Take your time and get the ones you really like otherwise you end up spending your money twice. Don't take this the wrong way but in your intial post you stated you put a high value on clarity and a well rounded sound. You will not get that by going with cheap equipment. It doesn't mean you have break the bank for each piece but as with everything you get what you pay for. I made my living talking people into buying what was right whether that made me more money or not. There is a logical process when building a great sounding system. Talk to a reputable (one you can trust) car audio specialist in your area. Pick their brain and you will see what I mean. I'm not trying to discourage you in anyway. I just want you to get the results you are looking for....like I said before enjoy the process. You'll be happy everytime you turn your tunes on!

 

Jax - Thanks for the advice. I think you are right. I realize that for the type of sound I want my journey will most likely not end at the purchase of a simple component set. In the future I would like to add an amp for at least my front speakers. But for now I want to start with the speakers. I tried to pick sets that I thought would handle just a tough more mid bass that the factory set does. I am not looking for audiophile quality just yet...rather just a little more balance and richness than my current set up.

What I am looking for from people is maybe more like pros/cons of certain speaker sets. Pro's/Con's based on things like price, reputation, efficiency, construction, sound...etc

I have never purchase a component set before. A little guidance is what I want.

 

http://www.memphiscaraudio.com/

Depending on your level of psycosis and hearing loss plans they've got a ton for everyone. One amp to do all 5 channels (1300W or something) is also nice considering you only have to run one power cable at that point.

 

just for future reference...

If I wanted to do an amp for my door speakers, what is the best way to install?

Mounting location?

How to wire up to speakers....do you just run you speaker wires directly from the amp to the speakers or do you find the speaker wires and splice in before the door?

 

Easiest way, is to run a trunkline of wire from the back of the headunit to the amp (best spot is in the boot). With a stock headunit, you have 9 wires going to the boot, and 8 wires going back (8 are speaker leads, 1 is the amp turn on). With an aftermarket HU, you'd run 5 wires (4 RCA, 1 Amp turn on) going to the boot, and 8 going back. Behind the headunit (if OEM) use a set of wire harnesses (to the mini, and from the mini) and splice it in that way, for a very clean, very easy, no damage install.

Honestly, in the years I worked in car stereo, there have only been two instances that an amp really made any difference for door speakers. Competition, and where the HU is a peice of trash. I've never heard of speakers being damaged due to not getting enough power, thats just bullcrap. Speakers only go bad from 3 things: too much power, bad install, and age/environment.

IMO, the best upgrade you can do for a stereo system is to change out the speakers, and then add a good 12-15" (anything less cant produce the right sound, just sounds bad imo) woofer facing the back of the car, as close to the back door as possible (1-2" max). That is, if your only concern is quality sound. If all you care about is pure volume or bling factor, then this recommendation isnt for you.


When I get home, I'll post the parts you'd need, with pictures. Once I get my mini, and get some more cash back in the bank, I'll do speakers/sub. and will post a nice photo-documentary on it for the forum.

 

Tradiuz, I have to say I don't agree with your statement about an amp making a difference in door speakers. Are you kidding me? Go into any sound room and have them switch between a good amp and a headunit's power. There is a huge difference! The reason speakers get damaged from not enough power is people turn the volume up to the point there is distortion and the speakers voice coil's heat up and and materials get destroyed. Like I stated previously power equals control over the driver. When drivers are underpowered they become sloppy in their movements this slop generates heat and melts adhesives and materials in the speaker. I realize and respect that you have been in the install business but I had too many customers come in with speakers that were shot from cranking up their underpowered system. I realize that you can also overpower speakers as well. If adding an amp to your door speakers didn't make a difference there's alot of fools out there. One more thing sub location and firing direction vary from enclosure type and vehicle type. Remember each vehicle is an enclosure and it will change the way the the system sounds.
Sorry biggripper if this thread may have taken a turn. You are asking good questions. Anyone else want to lend their experience? Maybe someone has a pair of these actual speakers so they can provide some info for biggripper?

 

I just got back from demoing some more speakers...this time with a disk I made just for this purpose.

I demo'd two different speaker sets both 6.5" - Alpine type S and Infinity Reference

I both sets were running off of a Sony HU and I set up all the EQ and stuff so that it was a close to my setup as possible.

The alpine did seem to have better low bass and mid bass. The infinity set had better bass than I expected...they were also very bright but overal they did seem very crisp and clean.

This will not be an easy decision.

 

Ha! No it won't be easy but it should be fun. I remember that when we sold Infinity they were bright. MB Quart used to be bright as well. Unless that's your thing they can be a bit harsh when the tweets are mounted up high like the MINI's. Stay patient and follow your instincts, you will gravitate back to the pair that you like the most, or you'll find yourself saying "yeah they almost sound as good as....(fill in the blank)". That's when you know you've found your new speakers!
Biggripper, I have to ask. Did you find out what speakers actually fit your car? Diameter/depth? This can narrow the playing field signifigantly with some vehicles.

 

The stockers are 5 1/4's but most people that upgrade do 6 1/2's. It requires you to either buy or make a spacer ring. The stock set have a half in spacer built in to the mounting surface of the speaker.

The purpose of the spacer is twofold...
1. Gain the necessary additional diameter required for the 6 1/2's
2. Gain mounting depth so as to not interfere with the window

 

99% of headunits only put out 12v max, since they dont have room for a transformer, pulse transistor, caps, ect. 12v (14.4v) into 4ohm = 36 (51.8) watts. 72 watts if they use negative voltage on the other wire. Lets take a look at some entry level speakers: Pioneer TS-G1640R 2 Ways. ( http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pn...850142,00.html ) 160wt max. 30W nominal.

Looks like the HU can already put out more than the NOMINAL on those speakers. Yes, you could ruin those speakers with a headunit only, and the only thing the amp is going to do is compound the problem. There are a 'few' instances where an amp will help. Lower SNR ratio, in-amp digital crossover, ect. On most systems, you'll never notice. And if you're on the highway, there isnt a chance you'll notice the difference in SNR.

My point is, you can overcurrent a set of speakers with the stock unit, an amp will only blow more speakers, faster.

 

Infinity All The Way!!!!! Enuff Of The Overrated Companies!!! Go With The Quality Product!!!!!!



Infinity
Infinity
Infinity!!!!!

 

I don't want this to distract biggripper or anyone else from purchasing the speakers they like. My original point was that more power on the stock speakers or any other for that matter makes for better sound. That is just a fact like it or not. When you speak of head units and wattage you need to consider that most are way overated. They measure that wattage at obcene distortion levels therefore your 36 watts (let alone 72?) are not accurate. More like 12 to 18 actual watts of clean power. Even a 50x2 dedicated amp will make a big difference in quality of sound. As far as signal to noise ratio is concerned many people won't notice a difference. A trained ear certainly will. Let's just leave the amp aspect out of this and let biggripper find the speakers he likes and we can agree to disagree.

 

Start from the headunit back........and if your gonna use components...definitly run an amp b/c at loud volume...the distortion would be horrible. As for headunit brands both alpine and pioneer are great radios. If you do end up adding amps....unless you want to spend more than 400 on a radio.....do an alpine. With four volt preouts....the sound quality would be ten times better than just the two volt preouts the pioneer would put out. My recommendation would be to do the 2004 model alpine radios b/c most of the models from the cda9825 and up will have four volt preouts. Trust me...four volt makes a lot of difference in sound quality.

your friend ben