Running wires to door - North American Motoring


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Running wires to door

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Old 01-09-2018, 06:29 PM
EdRedSled EdRedSled is offline
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Running wires to door

I am trying to run new speaker wires to the doors of my R56. Not fun so far, any suggestions?

Option 1) My preference is to run 1-2 pairs of speaker wire through each door jam into the door. The harness boot seems to have a molex type of connector and no real room without drilling (not even sure how I would get a tool in there)

Option 2) Try to "intercept" the speaker wires inside the car, near the jam, before it passes through the door jam. (seems the harness heads "up" towards the dash and is hard to access

Option 3) Pull the radio and intercept the wiring there, although I've not looked into that option, and am suspecting the amp itself is buried elsewhere....

I've checked YouTube seems generic or for a different model. Advice appreciated

VIN is WMWMF73557TL88705, so it seems
- I have the S6FC Radio MINI Boost CD
- Don't have S674A (Harmon Kardon)
- Don't have S6FDA (Mini Hi Fi Speaker system)
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Old 01-10-2018, 08:33 AM
John_theCapn John_theCapn is offline
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Option 1 was what I did. You can trim the bottom part of the joining connector to make room for the wires. Take care not to trim too much though. Or you take the tidy route and get some pins for the plug and used an empty spot.

But, if you have the Hi-Fi system, you should have all the speaker wires you need. The door woofer has a pair. Then the 3" midrange as well.

Again, if you have the Hi-Fi system, option 3 prob wouldn't work. The amp is on the left side of the boot. Wires run from the HU to the amp/boot and then to all the speakers.

EDIT: I re-read your post. Missed the fact of you not having the Hi-Fi, etc. Please reference this thread for more info if you want to retrofit the Hi-fi or HK systems. Plus, there are other threads that highlight speaker upgrades, wire swaps, adding amps, etc.

Last edited by John_theCapn; 01-10-2018 at 09:54 AM.
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Old 01-11-2018, 06:43 AM
EdRedSled EdRedSled is offline
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Thanks John_theCaptn,

Our plan is to retain the stock head unit (with aux input) and then use step down adapters to convert speaker level to RCA level, and then run that through aftermarket crossovers, amps, speakers.

I am comfortable with the wiring design, but running wires to that door.... ugh.

I want to retain the radio fader control, so I plan to use step downs on the front AND back speakers. This is easy for the rear, but in the front doors I need either need to run a second set of wires through the door, or perhaps intercept the speaker wire before it goes through the door.

So going back to your decision to use option 1. Basically the boot on the car's door jam is a vertical rectangle like the connector, but you were able to make some room next to the connector to get a pair of wires through?

1) Looking at the connector (vertical rectangle), where did you pass (top, bottom, side). We THINK the top had some room?
2) Did you go from door to car, or car to door?
3) Car side - we removed some of the panels, but just wondering how much one has to remove to make this work? Obviously it was starting to feel like we were eventually going to remove the dash....

(FYI we are working on a US market car, starting with the passenger side (right), so any considerations for the drivers side is appreciated as well.
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Old 01-11-2018, 09:44 AM
John_theCapn John_theCapn is offline
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It's been a year since I dove into mine, but yes, either the top or the bottom of that plug had some room to run a pair of wires beside them.
I ran from car to door.
In the car, I found it easiest to disconnect the battery and remove the seats to make working on things easier. With that said, and if it were me, i'd pull the HU and gain access to the wiring there. Then run your new wires from the amp/crossover/etc. Trying to get under the dash to access the wires is not easy, that's why I recommend it this way.
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Old 01-12-2018, 06:01 AM
EdRedSled EdRedSled is offline
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We are going to wait for spring when the weather is better, but its sounding like pulling the head unit may be the way to go... So long as there is no amp buried elsewhere we can intercept the wires there.

Thanks for the insight.
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