Does your multimeter confirm this, that pin 16 dies to 0V when the keys are removed?

 

That would work great. There are other ways that involve pushing wire under a fuse while you slide it in, but this isn't the best way to do it.

This should work out for you. Give it a try and report back to me!

 

What are we learning by using an add a fuse that we can't learn with a multimeter?

 

I am getting a 0.04 reading

Interestingly I only get the reading when I am touching to the ground pin. If I ground it anywhere else on the car, the reading claims 0.00

 

Since voltage is a difference between to places, you need to touch GND as well as the measurement point.

So to confirm then, Pin 16 visibly drops from ~12V to ~0V when the keys are removed?

 

It drops to 0.04

So yes, about 0

 

OK but to confirm, does it start at 12V? Go step by step please, and don't skip steps.

 

Sorry, no it does not. I just did another few readings. This time 0.18. It was constant whether I had the key turned, or out completely.

 

OK great so we have our first point to rectify.

For the IGN, is there any other item that shares that fuse that is working, for example the cig lighter.
F10 5A Navigation computer/On-board monitor control unit/Radio control unit

Apparently no, so check fuse F10. Your multimeter has a resistance mode and a diode check mode, both can tell you if the fuse is in tact. Touch the probes together to understand how the display changes when the circuit is completed before you make your measurement.

 

More progress. That fuse was also kaput!

Stock stereo now turns off as it should when keys are pulled. Something strange though (maybe I never noticed this) but I can STILL turn it on without the keys in. It is just that now if the radio is running when ignition is turned and I turn ignition off, the radio turns off as well.

If you are going to ask if it goes from ~12 to ~0 I was dumb and didn't check that, but can do if it would be helpful.

I would also like to thank you (and everyone else) for taking the time to help with this. It really is appreciated!

 

I wanted to update here!

The pioneer unit is working as intended.

Turns out my achilles heel was a pair of fuses. Sometimes it is the little things I guess!


THANK YOU EVERYONE FOR ALL THE HELP

 

Glad it's working for you!

It's alway seems to be the simplest things doesn't it?

 

Well that really gave you a hard time, glad that you were able to fix it. NAM is a great place

 

That's why you're supposed to do basic diagnosing and problem solving before asking for help. Always check connections and not just with your eye but with a voltmeter. Honestly anyone doing any wiring whether it be soldering a new side marker socket to a stereo install should have a voltmeter handy. I used a voltmeter once when I was having major electrical issues. Systems shutting off while driving; gauges, lights ect, and found my car idling at 18 volts figured out instantly that my voltage regulator was out by a simple 18v car search on google. Had my car fixed the next day and never had to say a word to anyone. Now my radio is really acting funky with low reception when my lights come on. Been playing around and found nothing out of the ordinary and have done several searches and tried various solutions and still nothing. Our cars have a signal amplifier so I am thinking to replace that but want second opinions from people before I spend 200$.

 

Thanks again folks!

Quick question: I sort of didn't even think about this, but I lost steering wheel control functionality on the Pioneer unit. Not a HUGE loss since I only really messed with volume, for the most part, but is there a way to get this functionality back?

 

If you go back in the thread, you will see that I didn't even really know how to use the tools I had correctly. Thankful for the helpful and patient folks who were able to help me though, specifically joylove. I bet he was over there thinking "this idiot shouldn't even be replacing a bulb." In any case, I learned a lot about my voltmeter yesterday!

 

PAC sells an adapter that will let you do this, if your head unit has this capability.

 

What am I looking for on the box, manual, etc. to see if it does?

 

I just looked at the website, looks like it is compatible. So you should be ok to order a PAC swi-rc (I got mine through crutch field) and this will allow you to get back your controls.

You're going to have to open up your steering column and cut a wire in it. Then connect that wire to the PAC adapter which then connects to your stereo.

Then you get the fun of programming it. Not too bad, but it seems to me it should take 3 hands.

 

question / hint

when you started messing around with the wires, had you disconnected the battery or pulled the fuses for the radio?

I'm guessing not, and you probably crossed something along the way and blew the fuses ... causing all your frustration.

 

Glad you are up and running.

You will need a BMW iBus to Pioneer remote adaptor for the MFSW buttons. the PAC-SW1 is a bit old now, in that it needs the programming to be done I think you can buy a pre-programmed unit, but i forget the vendor.

 

I did pull the battery (I am paranoid about getting zapped). But I didn't pull the radio fuses. Didn't know that was of concern.

The more you know...

 

You should only need to disconnect the battery.

 

I just installed an Alpine head unit into my wifes MINI using the Crutchfield adaptor. The red wire they had me run into the fuse panel, connecting to the protected side of the wiper fuse. The radio would not turn on without this being connected.

Now I have the problem of the radio doesn't turn off with the ignition tho. It just stays on.

What fuse did you end up using so that your radio turns off with the ignition?

 

I didn't end up wiring directly to a fuse as those who know more than me basically recommended against it (it would have been a band-aid and not an actually fix in my case). I had two blown fuses which, once replaced, resolved my problems.

As you can see from the thread, I am by no means an expert. Kind of strange that the kit would require you to tap into the fuse box, as mine didn't have it (and mine was just a $5 eBay deal).

If you show a picture of your wiring, maybe simon here can better help you. Not promising anything from my end, but these other guys eventually got me sorted.