Looking at the dimensions this sub it should fit in the boot perfect (13.6 x 13.6 x 10.4). Has anyone got one of these already? Any good ideas on mounting?

Next Q is if I put it back there is there strategic spots you guys recommend putting dynomat?

-donut

I don't know of anyone with that sub but in a custom enclosure it should fit. Think about where you'd put the amp.

Dynamat is good for sound deadening and most owners have installed it in layers in the two doors and some in the rear quarter panels, on the rear seat bottom and rear hatch area. The biggest benefit is in the doors (door panel, inside of the outer door and outside of the inner metal door).

Some threads about installing subs-
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...amp;topic=1073

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...mp;topic=22843

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...amp;topic=1983

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...mp;topic=12196

On amps-
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...mp;topic=10881

Do a search to find even more!

Polk Audio MM10 comes with an enclosure. It's a .66cft box.

I don't have the money or skills to go custom. So far I purchased a pair of polk audio db6500 for the front and the MM10 for the boot. I have a Crossfire vr404 (4x50 4ohm) or (2x200 (4ohm briged)) or (2x50 & 1x200(4 ohms w/ one pair briged)) RMS@ .02%THD rated at 12.5V not 14.4. I figure the fronts get amplified(2x50) & the rears run off the stock head unit. The MM10 comes in an enclosure that should fit but, I haven't tried (1x200).

I purchased it all on ebay (prices include shipping):
$130 (db6500)
$160 (crossfire vr404)
$101 (MM10)
~400 I hope to get the amp & speakers installed for $150. My goal was to get a cleaner sound with tighter & deaper bass than the HK system for the same money.

Most of the people posting on this site seem to have unlimited funds. Who can afford a machintosh amp?? Good lord.. I just don't think anyone could actually hear .005% THD difference.

-Donut

ok.. I got the sub today. It does't fit the way I had wished (top of the sub hits the back seats). It does fit the other direction it just sucks up some additional room.

-David

Check my custom enclosure. I had it built for me last year. If you are interested in spec just let me know. I might be able to run them down.

http://images.cardomain.com/member_i...96_15_full.jpg
http://images.cardomain.com/member_i...96_14_full.jpg
Shot of sub & amp, note crossovers in side panel
http://images.cardomain.com/member_i...96_16_full.jpg

Thats awesome! How much does a custom made enclosure like that run?

>>Most of the people posting on this site seem to have unlimited funds. Who can afford a machintosh amp?? Good lord.. I just don't think anyone could actually hear .005% THD difference.
>>
>>-Donut


Amen to that brotha.
:wink:

Ok.. I got the sub installed and working. Damn!! Way tooooo much bass. I can't believe how much bass this this makes. It's down right amazing.

I think I have to take it out. I have already turned the gain so low that the amp is practically off and it still pumps some bass. BTW. This crossfire amp is a HAUS! It's supposed to be 50x4 or 200x2 (bridged). Talk about underrated, my 380W linear power amp couldn't touch this guy with a 100ft pole.

I am thinking about switching to the JL audio 6w0. Has anyone heard these? I want punch but, I can do without all the booom.

The 6w0 is a great option if you don't want to suck up a lot of room but it's not a very good driver for sub-bass. It won't play as low as an 8 or 10, especially in a sealed box. And cone area is only 45% of a 10 with only ~.25" Xmax. Almost any 10 will have twice the throw. Expect the 6w0 to be down ~6db to even the cheapest 10. Also, a 6w0 ported requires the same net box volume as most sealed 8's and the sound quality of the 8 will be much better. If you wanna go small, the 6w0 is the right driver but not if you want bass. As always, small subs are a compromise, and it all depends what you're willing to give up.