Originally Posted by ECSTuning (Post 4412425)

I wish we did, but we don't sell used car parts unless it was new and then a scratch and dent. We don't service cars here unless it's for R&D development or company car fitments. So we don't get used parts to put on the site.

Originally Posted by Paul Griffin (Post 3538853)

We have a 2004 Mini Cooper and the Harman Kardon amplifier stopped working. I've never had any car audio component, head unit or amplifier, fail in any of the 16 cars I've owned, yet this premium amplifier is stone cold dead. Doing a bit of anecdotal research it seems it might be a very common problem, so I was wondering:

How many others out there have had their Harman Kardon audio system fail?
(Please post the year of your car and model in response)

Originally Posted by Paul Griffin (Post 3604109)

I put in a JL Audio XD600/6 (M600/6, the marine version, will work well if you have extra dampness) in our 2004 Mini Cooper (R50) this weekend -- took me about 7 hours in total and not too tough if you have some DIY in you. I got a refurbished amp on eBay for under $300 and spent about $15 on connectors. There are lots of these amps out there in the $350 range and, if you choose to go this route, it will let you keep your Harman Kardon (HK) head unit intact and connect up to your existing HK 2ohm speakers. It cost much less than the $1000+ Mini wants to replace with 8 yr old HK technology, and you'll have more watts and cleaner sound, and as I mentioned, you can definitely Do-It-Yourself. No add'l crossovers needed either -- this is a 6 channel amp with adjustable crossovers and level input adjustment at the amp. You'll lose the front/rear fade option since that was controlled digitally between the HK Head Unit and the HK amp, however a JL amp wired remote is also available if you should so feel the need (JL Audio HD-RLC ~$25), but you can also just set-and-forget the input levels at the amp for balance between the 3 sets of channels. Be careful not to overdrive your speakers by over cranking the inputs.

Firstly though...
Disclaimer: I'm not an electrical engineer or car audio installer, so anything posted here is solely my experience. Caveat Emptor.

This site was a lot of help in the seat and panel disassembly. Starting here and the next couple of pages forward: http://gbmini.net/downloads/PGEN/rearseat.htm

NOTE: Before you do anything with the amp, DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY. 300/600watts is a lot of juice and could be lethal. Safety first. Make sure there is no way the lead can spring back to your battery while you are working. I put the plastic cover back over my battery to be sure.

Also, I like to wire up all the new speaker connections first, then the amp ground connection, 12v power and remote last.

These maps of the wires I found to be accurate and were essential:
http://gbmini.net/downloads/PGEN/hk-plug-grey.htm
http://gbmini.net/downloads/PGEN/hk-plug-black.htm

After you disconnect the wiring harness from the amp, pry this wiring plug apart with a jewellers screwdriver or a knife and a black half and grey half should pull out of the connector. Release the triangular tangs that lock the wires in the halves with nail or tiny screwdriver. The metal tangs on the wires work pretty well without stripping, you can plug them straight into the XD600/6 wire connection holes -- tighten down on them with the alan key provided.

Its fairly straightforward to wire everything up. Just follow the diagrams that will tell you which coded wires the tweeters, door speakers and woofers connect to. The power, ground and remote, as well as the input leads from the HK head unit need to be wired up as well. That's about it.

You'll need two RCA connectors to wire up the two-channel input from the HK Head Unit to the amp. Positive (+) goes to the center pole. There is a switch at the amp to accept 2 channel input, and that's what you'll need to select.

You'll need to extend the Subwoofer A speaker leads to the amp (I ignored Subwoofer B, those leads seemed redundant and everything seems to work without B just fine) by about 4"/15cm.

The biggest part of the job for me was cutting and drilling a thin metal plate to mount the amp back onto the original HK bracket. Its a tight fit but the JL Audio XD600/6 does work in the same space the Harmon Kardon fit in and another reason to go with JL -- their stuff is very compact. The remounting job will take up the most of your time since you'll be inventing/re-jigging. But all in all it, I found it a fun weekend project.

If you find you have amp hiss, even without the Head Unit switched on, turn your inputs all the way down and mix back up from there. That should fix it. Use the included JL manual to learn about and then adjust the frequency filters (crossovers) and inputs. Adjust to your taste with the head unit controls set flat. Again, don't cook your speakers by over dialling the inputs. Keep the inputs as low as possible to minimize noise.

One note: I have to mail order and run some 4AWG wire that JL recommends for the 12v power since I live In-The-Middle-Of-NoWhere but in the meantime, I'm using the stock Mini power to the HK amp and it seems to be working fine for now. I'll let you know if it starts blowing fuses.

So bottom line...
I did it myself. Saved at least $700. Looks like a factory install. Sounds awesome.

If you have any questions, I'll try and answer.

Originally Posted by RickLP (Post 4633301)

Trying to get a 2011 to function with good sound, now 10 years after your post. Was wondering if you might still have the wiring schematic lying around as the old link has expired.

Originally Posted by RickLP (Post 4633301)

Trying to get a 2011 to function with good sound, now 10 years after your post. Was wondering if you might still have the wiring schematic lying around as the old link has expired.

Originally Posted by slademan (Post 4633365)

Not really sure how Harmon wired them into amp crossovers or if they even did. Another way to say it is that the higher 3 inch midrange and 1 inch tweeter sound signal are on the same line.

Originally Posted by slademan (Post 4633365)

If you have any questions just send a pm.

Originally Posted by mini_me123 (Post 4635018)

R53/HK here. My driver's tweeter cuts in and out w/volume (dead low, live when high). I don't believe it's the speaker as it sounds ok when it works. Is this a sign of amp chan going? Can one just recap the unit and have it working again?

Originally Posted by giorgos (Post 4634932)

Note that this Thread is about 1st generation Minis. I don't know whether there are differences between 1st and 2nd gen. Minis in regard to their wiring colors but I wouldn't assume it. Nor would I assume that wire coloring is consistent across all 2nd generation Minis (i.e. pre-LCI, LCI and standard audio equipped vs. HIFI/HK equipped). Also note that in case your MINI came with an amp from factory (i.e. HIFI/HK option), there are several reasons for not simply replacing the factory speakers, as discussed in this excellent thread on possible sound upgrades.


The tweeters and midrange front speakers of 2nd generation HK and HIFI equipped Minis are supplied with the same signal (albeit heavily processed, see below).


Why? Both RickLP and other members would benefit from an open discussion (preferably under a new or existing thread in the 2nd generation forum instead of here).