This thread is slowly starting to take form. Would be awesome to have someone do a complete write-up of their experience with some pictures though.

 

I'm working on that. It'llbe a full system install, but I'll include the HU.

 

Just came back from the shop that did my install...and couple of problems.
I have 2009 MCS with the normal factory radio, no amp,no nothing.

First, the Steering wheel adapter I bought didn't work...tried to figure out why and the installer said that there wasn't the cable to do it in the car itself
so no control from my steering wheel...kinda pissed.
Anyone with a 2009 and did this mod ?? otherwise I can sell this item to someone who wants to do the mod and have a lower year than 09

Second, I don't know how he wired it,if I move my light stalk (left one) to no lights at all, the double din shuts off ... it needs to be either on DRL,full Xenon on, or Auto mode. I thought it would work like the OEM radio,you know,you can have it on when the car if off for instance.

Third, the freaking ribbon wasn't the right size after waiting like 4weeks for all my item to here, Iam finding out that my 09 (most likely)needs a 40-PIN 0.50mm pitch ribbon. Def the 32 pin is too small !! I can sell that one too if someone needs it
So we couldn't keep the CD player behind the speedo, I don't have the little display below the odometer working,nor the OEM radio button working...

basically half a fail on the install !

I really want the steering wheel control to work though ... don't care about the cd player anymore, don't matter ... please help

 

It sounds like your installer doesn't know what he is doing. He picked a really bad power source and couldn't figure out where to tap for the steering wheel controls? I would demand a partial to full refund and take it to someone that knows what they are doing.

 

I will see about the power; however the Steering wheel adapter I bought doesn't seem to work for MCS 2009 ... there is no brown in the OEM cable nor another Orange/green one to plug ... don't know, no one did it for the MCS 09 though ?
On the Axxess website, it doesn't list the car at all ...

 

I see orange/green and green. Don't know where you found brown. Pins 11 and 9 in the radio harness.

 

This is the manual that came with it...
Orange green to connector 11
Brown to connector 9
?? he said theres no brown cable, this is not compatible

 

metra's wiring pinout is screwy... call them and confirm the colors... and if i were you i would be beating the installer over the head with a tire iron as he clearly doesn't know what he is doing, there is no way your power to deck should be cutting out when you press the stalk... sounds like he wired the deck to headlights power switch... stay away from him and demand a refund!!!!

 

another thing get the retrofit installation manual for the MFSW controls and see what colors they list for your vehicle and then cross reference those with a installation manual for a BMW of the same year you might get the proper colors then since that's all the MINI is.

 

after entering the 2008 MCS info with boost stereo i get this:

Product Information

The ASWC will work in your vehicle. Use the wiring information below to integrate it.

Vehicle Information
Digital Data Type Control SystemYES
Control Wire 1 Wire ColorORANGE/GREEN
Control Wire 1 Polarity(DATA)
Control Wire 1 LocationRADIO HARNESS
Control Wire 1 Pin #11
Control Wire 2 Wire ColorGREEN
Control Wire 2 Polarity(DATA)
Control Wire 2 LocationRADIO HARNESS
Control Wire 2 Pin #9

Hope this helps buddy

 

FYI - Brown, in German cars, is ALWAYS a ground. If it says to connect to a brown cable you should be able to ground to the chassis or HU with no problems.

Any installer that's been doing this for any length of time would know this.

 

He tapped into the light circuit for accessory power. Basically, there is no way to get your new HU to power up with the car off and key out like the OEM HU because accessory power in newer German cars is all CAN-BUS controlled.

Ok, I take that back. Here's something you can TRY, I'm not guaranteeing it will work. Connect the new HU's accessory power cable to the OEM HU's remote turn on lead for the factory amp. Even without the amp in place, I'm HOPING that this lead is still active. If this works, to power the new HU up you'll have to have the OEM radio on as well but since it's not connected to anything, there shouldn't be an issue. So when you park and want to listen, press the OEM raio power button and the new HU will power up. When you turn the car on and off it'll power up like normal because the OEM HU will also be on.

Make sense? I'm going to give it a go with mine.

 

You going to laugh but there is no power button on the Clarion NX700...so maybe that is why it tapped into the light module?
If you look at my previous post with the manuel's pictures,can you tell me what qi need to tell him to do? Orange d gree are from the car? What about the brown cable? Is it from the aswc or the Clarion din? Confused...

 

Yes there is, hold down the source button. I'm not trying to be a douche, but have you read the manual for this unit?

I don't see where brown is coming into play. All I see mentioned anywhere is green/yellow.

 

Yes I have read it and please enlighten me with where you have got your information from as I have tried and look on how to "switch it off" and came up empty ?

Anyway, I am glad to say that I am done with this install ... Went back to the shop and literally work with the guy on the car. His excuse was that when he was looking for a power cable, since my lights were on and he tested the source for the wires,he basically connected it to the lighting cables ...
So we took the dash apart (again round 2) and I must that that it can be done within 15 to 20 min.
The hardest part for me was the screws in the vent over the speedometer...what a pain,especially to put them back in afterwards.
Best DIY video were found on youtube, his Mini was destroyed so he did two video on how to take the dash apart.
Video 1 and Video 2
Very interesting to actually watch,rather than pictures or a written step by step.

As I mentioned earlier, I ordered the 32pin cable and it was wrong ...
So anyone who has a 09 MCS, don't get it ... you need to 40pin (ordered from buddy in Thailand, he made me pay shipping only since I had purchased the wrong one) I can sell the 32pin if anyone want.
So when I receive this, round 3 ,maybe, I ll put it back in for the LCD to show up.

As far as the dealer told me, the only thing you will miss, is the LCD and its interaction, it will not make your car go angry as someone mentioned in the beginning of this thread. (Now this is what the dealer told ME for MY car, I can't vouch for any other year or model)

For the steering wheel control adaptor if you bought the same one as I did, be careful...the manuel is wrong. I had to call them to found out they only update their paper manuel every 4 years. Anyway, you must use for a MCS the Pin#11 to the car that would go to PIN cable 1 to the ASWC, and PIN 9 to the car,going to Pin 7 cable to the ASWC,nothing else, no PIN 8 or brown cable as mentioned in the stupid manuel.
Of course, plug your power and ground. To be honest, less than a minute to make it worked. So happy I have this on.

Wired the camera, however I bought the wrong one from Ebay and made a mistake. Therefore Im gonna upgrade to a little more expensive one If anyone wants it, I have the camera with a wireless module to sell

Putting everything back in was a bit of a B$*ch, too many cables, camera,iPod,aux, switches for video,double din own cables...its tough to snug everything and have the mettra go in easily. Push it in, hold and put the screws on. We removed the centre console,just unscrew it and moved it to backwards, as we tapd the power to the accessory cigaret charger,and it made it much easier to manoeuvre with the Metra kit.

I used electrical tape on every cable connector at the back. First time we put it in, lost the yellow video connector for the iPod...seems like when we pushed the deck in, it got disconnected.

I can't tell ppl what wires go where, as every aftermarket unit is different. However my manuel was pretty clear. I paid someone to help me do the wiring as I didn't know what to do really, I just wanted the wiring to be done correctly more than anything else, if you know electrical a bit, you are good to go.
I will probably take apart the dash as the part where the glove compartment opening button is, is not put on totally straight.
If you know anything about wiring to power and what cable goes where,this install is actually not bad, looks depressing when the car is apart though

I have two bad pictures, I ll get some in the daylight tomorrow.
Big thanks on everyone who contributed whether trough PM or on this thread.

 

I stand corrected. YOu have the only Clarion I've ever seen that "Source" doesn't function as a power switch. You have to press "Source" then "Audio Off".

Did you hide the OEM radio behind the speedo? That's all you NEED to do. The ribbon cable is simply to have the radio display functional, which isn't necessary, just nice to have.

 

Do we have consensus on what years/versions of stock systems the 32 pin works on?? I'm planning on doing my system this year and if the 32 pin works on an '08 with the base stereo, I'd possibly be interested in buying that cable from you. I'm just down the street from you in Toronto, Canada!!

Really looking forward to a detailed write up if it happens. So many times in the past I've plunged into these types of jobs with my cars and it ends up taking way longer the first time when I have no clue where I'm heading!!! Nice to have someone blaze the trail infront sometimes. My hat's off to you guys.

 

I'd bet the change happened with the changes made in 2009. Note, you ONLY need the cable if you want to keep the display in the speedo working. You can still hide the OEM radio to keep the computer happy WITHOUT this other display working.

 

Ok, SO I got my IVA-D800 installed and I learned a few things.

First - 2012s, or at least MY 2012, don't use a 32- or 40-pin ribbon cable, they use a 50-pin cable.

Second - a single DIN flip-out will NOT work in the upper location as it'll hit the ring around the speedo when it opens. I'm going to try moving it to the lower location and see if that makes it works able. If not, I'll have to go to a DD unit and I'm NOT happy about that.

Third - The SWC info that GTECKO posted is dead on correct for the steering wheel controls.

Fourth - You can't adjust the clock without the OEM radio installed and the ribbon cable connected to the display. We just switched to DST this past weekend...

Fifth - I haven't really done any tuning yet but a 3-way front stage doesn't seem to be adding much. The mids sound a bit muffled. A 2-way setup, especially run active, should be more than enough for anyone and a cinch to tune. I may, in fact, turn my 3-way into a 2-way and see which I prefer. That COULD mean pulling one amp out and moving the processor from the side panel to under the front pass seat or running a shitload of power to everything else. Right now I have 100 Watts on each tweeter and mid, 300 on each midbass and 500 available for the sub. The new setup would be 150 on each tweeter, 300 on each midbass, and 500 on the sub.

Sixth - The door panels buzz/rattle like a sonofabitch. I'm hoping it's not the driver and it is, in fact, the panel. I'd hate to have to replace brand new midbasses. They sound AMAZING. A little rattle is easy to deal with.

Seventh - I found an accessory power wire right behond the OEM radio. I have no idea what it powers, but I tapped into that and everything is good. When I get the OEM radion tucked behind the dash I'm going to use the amp turn-on lead for accessory power.



Can anyone give me some pointers on separating the face of the OEM CD player from the body? I didn't see any obvious screws or clips and don't want to break anything but I need to get that piece off to access the ribbon cable.

Thanks all.

 

@Quality_sound:

Just curious. With running that much power, did you do anything to upgrade the electrical system (battery, alternator, etc) or are you finding that the Mini electrical system is good enough?

With regards to the 3-way setup up front, what equipment are you running and can you elaborate on your thoughts as to why the 3-way setup isn't giving you much "more". Reason I'm asking is because I've been planning to add the tweeter in the a-pillar to my stock base setup and set the system up for a full 3-way front end.

50 pin eh!! Seems that every year the pin count goes up.

 

I've never upgraded the alternator in any car I've ever owned and I've run a lot more power than this. Music is dynamic so unless you're an SPL competitor you should never need to upgrade your electrical system.

I'm running an old school set of MB Quart QSD-210's and ther QSD-164 add-on middbass set. This gived me a tweeter in the OEM tweeter locations (I got new pillars as mine didn't have tweeters orginally), a 4" in the OEM lid location and a 6.5" in the OEM midbass location.
I think the main reason is that the mid is basically in a VERY small enclosure. It's a bit muffled. I'm going to play around with it some more but if I don't like what I hear I'll just turn the mids off and run a 2-way front. This will, of course vary depending on the midrange you use. Some like small enclosures, some do not. I really need to spend some time in WinISD and see what mine likes.
I WOULD however, suggest putting tweeters in the pillars versus the doors. The doors can sound good but I prefer the pillar location. The detail is better and you'll need a bit less power. The tweeter being far more on-axis is the reason.

 

I hooked up my main power to the cigarette lighter outlet (accessory outlet) - as it was better than hooking it up to the lights like the other guy did ...
However, here is my issue now, and maybe Iam wrong and thats the way it should be.
So, when my car is off and I turned it on, the clock on the Clarion is not set up , it literraly takes minutes for it to come up with a time. I set it up so the GPS corrects it, I set it up manually ...no difference. If I turn the car off and restart it, I loose the clock again...

Do you think its because the way its wired ? like the Clarion is restarting allover every time ?
Causes problem with the bluetooth as it seems I need to pair my phone all the time.

As for your question, no we didn't keep the CD inside, we called the dealer and they said it wasn't needed ... did the guy knew what he was talking about ?
I did have an issue with the clock, however I was able in my 09 to set it up from the tach. I can't see it, I need to go in the setup to actually see the date or the time...kinda useless.
So far,I don't have any warnings or the car acting weird. I haven't tried to Test coding with NCS or even using my access port.

For the ASWC ... it was so stupid,I looked like an imbecile trying to figure out where was pin#8 and all lol anyway; what matters is that it works in the end. Whoever will do a details write up can use the details up there and the reference it worked for u and I

ps:I inboxed u quality_sound

 

You can't connect your main power to the cigarette lighter because it's switched power. Every time you turn the car off the HU will reset.

It's not that I NEED the CD player in, it's that I WANT it in. I want the computer functions to work. I use them a lot. Also, without the HU in my park distance control doesn't work.

Can anyone help with separating the face from the body of the cd drive unit???

 

I thought so ... thanks for confirming its a mistake made, yet again
Would you just use the power from where the OEM radio was ?

I didn't know the part about the parking distance ? Do you have the OEM unit ?
Definitely something to remind ppl then,thanks for that.
I use the function too and its annoying to have that lcd not appearing when I had it for the past two years, Im looking for the clock and remember its not there no more. Once I receive my new cable, I will try and have it fit there.

Did you order your cable yet ? Which cable you have at the moment ?

Another thing I wanted to ask you since you know a lot
how can I set up my camera so that I have press something to have a live feed on all the time ?

 

Yep. For now I'm using a Metra harness (70-9003) to get power and ground. Later I'll probably run a new power lead from the amp distribution block and a new ground with accessory power coming from the OEM HU.

I already have 2 40-pin cables, both 400cm but I can't use either since I need a 50-pin. One is a standard cable, and the other is inverted. I got both to see if one made the install easier than another. You can' have them if you need a 40-pin. $30 shipped for both?

It depends on the radio. I would imagine that you cycle through your video inputs and have it come on but it will likely revert to normal operation when you turn the car off.