Bypassing the factory speaker wiring on an '09 MCS
 

I think I saw something about this from either Robin or https://www.northamericanmotoring.co.../r90_alloy.gif schatzy62 on running wire from the power amp to the crossovers in the doors. Can someone point me in the right direction? I'm to the point that I am preparing to drill a hole in the door and the door post , install grommets, run the wire through them and silicone seal the whole mess. Anyone tried that? If so, how did it work out?
Phil

Here is the post for what I did to get the wiring to the doors.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...155-post4.html

It was not easy but probably easier than trying to get a drill there to drill holes in the door frame and door.

I had to run two wire to the door as the crossovers I was using were to large to fit in the door or door handle as others have done.

You can check out the rest of the thread as well for other wiring ideas as well.

Bypassing the factory wiring
 

Thanks for the quick reply. I have a right angle drive for my drill, and think I might just give this a try. I only have one 12 ga. wire to run from the power amp to the crossovers in the armrests. They were a perfect fit. will post pics later on if anyones interested. This has been a project that has evolved on the move..don't know whether thats a good thing or a bad thing, but it is coming to a climax. Can't wait to hear how it sounds.

Phil

How did you get from your picture with the coat hanger to actually getting it into the vehicle? I'm finding no space. :confused:

You can DO T!
 

Mine is an '09 MCS, and I think Schatzys is an '07. There may be a little difference between his and mine, and possibly yours. I just got through doing the same operation on mine, and here are the differences I found:
1. It's an 8mm screw that holds the boot on the car frame.
2. I ran one run of 12 ga. wire through the notch in the bottom of the boot as opposed to cutting a notch in the top-works a treat.
3. When trying to fish the wire into the body, there are limited openings, and they are covered with some sort of thin plastic foam, but your coat hanger should poke right through it.
I poked through, and taped my 12 ga. to the coat hanger using blue painters tape (masking would do also) and pulled it through carefully. make sure to tape over the end of the speaker wire so the end won't snag. I had to completely re-disassemble my door (planned to anyhow) to get the wire back to my crossovers in the door handle. Will post pics later on the whole shooting match. Schatzy is right, it is a bit difficult, but definitely the best way to do it. Makes for a clean install. Many thanks sir!

Phil

Thanks for the info. I took another shot at it today, and I found that on the door-side of that interconnect, there is rubber on the top and bottom of the wiring harness. I took a box cutter and took out just a little bit of this rubber on the bottom, and although quite snug, this gave me enough room to push the original interconnect back into the rubber housing with my 16ga 4-conductor wire (with an outer jacket) coming out of the bottom.

I used a coat hanger to get me into the body of the car (actually poking from the inside of the body out to the door). Took a few tries to find the coat hanger on the other side, but a little patience and some choice words later, I finally got it through. Door wiring complete! :thumbsup: