Please help with RCA connections. I've searched for 2 days!
 

:confused: :confused:

I've searched the Sticky, and its from 6 years ago. I got ALOT of over technical mumbo jumbo in there, which is cool, I understand it, but I need a short and sweet answer. I've spent 2 days looking through it and get conflicting posts, or just no answer at all. :sly:

About the RCA's. In one thread GBmini or GMBMini says you cannot get the RCA signal from anywhere by keeping the stock HK amp. In another thread he points to someone who tapped the signal in the woofer outputs before the HK amp, but its said that you cannot adjust the volume? :eek: So the amp/sub are going to play at MAX volume no matter what?

Thats all I've been able to find so far, I've got the pin out diagrams for the HK amp, and was going to tap my LOC into the rear woofer L&R on the H/K amp. But I would love to know if its going to require a seperate bass controller for sub volume... if so I might as well yank all the HK stuff and throw it in the trash, or just toss the subs and amp in my wifes car to never get used.

There are no RCA connectors anywhere in the car. I think you mean line level audio signals (as opposed to speaker level), and there are none as well.

The audio signals from the headunit to the HK amp run at full volume. The HK amp's output volume is controlled by digital commands that the headunit sends to the amp. If you want to add a sub, tap into the rear woofer speaker lines. You'll need to use a speaker to line level converter, or an amp/sub that accepts speaker level input.

Oh sure. Next thing, you're going to say that we won't find that cute little puppy sitting in front of the megaphone... :wink:

I know I asked at 2am, but did you even read the question? Or did you intentionally reword the question in the form of an answer?
I already know that the rear inputs before the amp are at full volume from my 2 day search. Thats why I said I've searched for 2 days and never gotten a simple answer to a simple question.

No, I meant a Line out Converter. I'm not putting home audio into my car.
This is a speaker to line level converter, its used for HOME audio applications. Its also about $65 on Amazon.com and is not designed for mobile audio.
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA300_.jpg

this is a Line out converter for CAR audio thats made for the enviorment I'm using it in, and its only about $15.
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA300_.jpg

Thats why I said I was going to tap the LOC (line out converter) into the rear woofer lines befroe the amp. I also already know, or have read that those run at full volume.

Thats why I asked the question, which you didnt answer.

How do you control the volume of the sub?
I know this has been asked before, I've read the nuimberous threads which have 1 or 2 replies that say.
'The signal input from the flux capacitor is then run through the gylenium gyroscope then oscilated back to the amp at full volume." But yet noone has actually answered the simple, yet complicated question.

Ok, so I'll ask again and see if I can make it more NAM friendly. (If you want the short version for people who dont overcomplicate a simple answer, please scroll to the bottom of the post, and thank you for your answer :razz: )

If I install a Line out converter in line with the input side of rear woofer lines of the H/K amp, that run at full volume, and is then digitally processed by the amp and volume controlled by a digital signal to the amp that is separate from the input lines, then run RCA cables that are shielded for preventing distortion or picking up any unwanted signals to the amplifier that is going to process the new signals from the input side of the H/K amp, at full volume into the low pass crossover of my MB Quart Amp and then send them digitally through a series of amplification circuits that process them based on the values of the user defined settings on the control panel of the amp and then send them to the speaker out terminals on the amplification circuit which will be connected by 14 gauge speaker wires (that are strategically twisted to further prevent outside interference) to my Kicker Solo Baric subwoofer in an exact .95 cu ft squared box. When I turn the key and send a power signal to the fuse block that then allows power to be applied to the car via the 12V bus. Then power will be directed through another series of fuses, and circuits to the radio, then the H/K amp, then the MB Quart amp. Now once everything is awaiting my command via the user input controls on the radio. What is going to happen when I push power on the radio?
Are the H/K amplified speakers going to be at zero volume and my 10" Kicker solo baric going to be vibrating me and my poor car to death? Or when I turn on the power is there going to be a zero volume level for all components until I turn the digital input knob on the volume control and send a digital signal to the H/K amp to increase volume?

Ok, here's the question again for the non overly technical people.
If I hook up the amp and sub like we have to do in the Mni, how do you control the volume of the sub? Is it as simple as the volume on the radio, or will it be the remote bass volume control on the amp? One poster said his worked with the volume, however I wasnt sure if he had the H/K or the boost radio.

:thumbsup: I agree

The flux capacitor was invented sometime around 1985, and is therefore old technology as far as electronics are concerned. I would remove it and the gyro, and just go with a full system install.:nod:

Before you sink your teeth into the palm of your waiter, you may want to consider whether or not there is anyone else serving.

Good luck.

:popcorn:

If that's where you tap into it, yes you will need a separate controller for sub volume. Maybe it wasn't clear but I was suggesting that you tap the output of the H/K amp instead.

I'm sorry you took that as being rude. I'm just trying to get an answer that is hinted to in many many threads. I've literally spent 4-5 hours reading them all without an answer.
There's a TON of overly, and yet fascinating techincal talk and specs on the system, but noone seems to give a lamens guide to doing it.

ok, and it wasnt clear, and nothing in here seems to be clear about where to clip into the signal at. . Now, GBMini stated that the outputs are so over processed you lose the low end signals, now that was back in 2004, but has this been proved to be false?

Thanks for the tips RKw.

Sorry I can't give advice. Bypassing the HK stuff confuses the sh*t out of me and luckily I didn't have to deal with it in my car. If you decide to pull out the HK and redo everything I can definitely help you out with that.:nod:

GBMINI (Ian Cull) knows more about this topic than just about anybody else. The HK system remained essentially unchanged throughout the R53 production and there's no reason to think its behavior changed in later years.

I think the easiest workaround is to install an aftermarket headunit along with the HK Enabler circuit (which by the way was designed by GBMINI). Then you'll be able to tap for a sub from the headunit outputs, or even better if the headunit has a sub output connector.

If you already have the sub components, it still might be worthwhile to simply hook up your sub to the HK amp outputs and see whether you are satisfied with the results. The amp does process the signals. It has built-in speaker crossover filters (the HK speakers have no crossovers), and performs other processing such as equalization and time delay effects.

yeah, but I dont really want to change the head unit. Basically cause I want to keep my MFSW controls in tact. I'll try it out and if doesnt work after the amp then I'll be forced to look into something else.

Many aftermarket headunits can be controlled by the MFSW. Some have a direct connection, others are possible with an adapter from PAC Audio. GBMINI did a writeup for one of the adapters.