looks good! I like how you wired it out of the light...only thing to be careful of is opening the boot in the rain since the connections are on the top....you know how these cars love to let water inside in the rain...

 

Looks good Adam - that's where I was originally planning to put my contoller as well, but I worried about the brightness of the LED. I may go back and move mine some day. How did you route the cable?

 

for the controller, that wire simply tucked under the center part, up under the steering column, then to where I tapped the audio connector. From there i went under the rocker trim under the seatbelt mounting location, then up sort-of under the back seat to the trunk. Hardest part is going from under the rocker trim to turn to go up to the back seat... tight clearance from trim to carpet

 

Cool - thanks! I may do this next weekend.

 

Great thread! I took the same route as some here and just had a local shop install a pair of 6.5" & 3.5" infiniti reference in the front. They sound great! I ordered the Boss Audio bass600 from amazon today and will have it soon. I'll have the local shop install that too cuz I'm scared to do it myself

Thank you all

 

While you're at it - see if they will do the wiring swap for you - it will make a big difference.

 

Only if you have the standard audio. It wont make any difference if you have the HIFI (other than having bluetooth phone calls come through the rear speakers).

 

Great point, Robin. thanks for the clarification.

 

At least print out and show them some of the things from the thread, such as the location of the x9331 connector, so they don't have to rip out the centre console!

 

I do have standard audio. I will print some stuff out for their reference in regards to the swap. Thanks for the tip.

 

I went to have this installed today...2.5 hrs later after all the wiring was completed they tell me the sub is most likely defective since it is hardly putting out any bass. They ran a bench test on it with the system they have in their garage and still a very week output. So amazon is sending me a new one arriving in a week. I'm worried that the exchanged sub will have the same problem. Hopefully not.

The good news is that its all wired and ready for a sub. Also they did manage to do the front/rear channel swap and it made a noticeable difference.

Does anyone know if there is an accessory wire? Right now they have it wired to the 12v lighter in between the front seats and the sub only activates when the ignition is on.

Needles to say i'm a little bummed

 

Depending on which wires you grabbed (front vs rear) make sure the fader isn't set all the way in the opposite direction - that would decrease sound output.

 

The commonly used accessory wire is just the one they picked -- the acc outlet.

Make sure they are feeding the sub with the signal from the speakers with the bass! After the swap, that's the REAR speakers! If you connect the sub to the wrong speakers, you'll get little to no bass!

Also, if you get the phase wrong on ONE of the feeds to the sub, you'll get little to no bass!

I'd try running the sub from one channel at a time (even on a test bench -- this eliminates phasing issues).

Good luck!

 

I had the fader in the center. We also tried the fader at each end. The sub is supposedly hooked up to the rear speakers after the swap (the installer brought that point up).

I'm thinking I need a second opinion from another shop. I've already paid for the labor and would suck to have to pay another installer.

The shop that did the install recommended the KENWOOD-KSC-SW10-Powered-Enclosed-Subwoofer as an alternative. They guaranteed this would work. The price is comparable to the BASS600. Thoughts?
http://www.amazon.com/KENWOOD-KSC-SW...0448560&sr=8-1

 

I had the same problem. I had wired the unit up as "high level" inputs. I was careful about wire colors etc. and remembered something from this thread that perhaps it needed to be wired into the "low level" inputs to the sub. I went to Radio Shack and bought a couple of RCA connectors and soldered the wires onto the connectors. It worked great and now I have to adjust things down to not be overpowered by the low frequencies. I hope this helps address your problem.

 

I went back and had the shop try a high level to low level RCA converter and still had the same issues when plugged into the low level inputs. The replacement sub should be arriving tomorrow. I'll keep my fingers crossed.

 

Keep us posted!

 

Received the new sub today. Took it to the shop and they wired it into the high lvl input it was Weak! They installed a high to low converter and Bingo it worked! It was sounding pretty good. I was happy. About 10 mins into my drive home the audio cuts out. No sound from the my ipod or tuner. I shut down the car for 10 mins, restarted and the audio was back on. After about 5 mins it cuts out again. There is apparently a safety mechanism that shuts down the system for its protection. I called the shop and have to bring it back in tomorrow to have them investigate. And for some reason they rewired it to the front speakers and not the back like they had it the 1st time...jeebus... The guys at the shop have been helpful, patient and pleasant and want to get the job done right. Otherwise I would be pissed. At least I know that the 1st sub was a dud and this sub works and sounds decent.

 

Hmm..I wonder if I should try low level inputs. I have decent sound but maybe it could be louder...

You are aware the high level input has a wire to be grounded right?

 

I highly recommend going to the low inputs. The installer was surprised and didn't expect it to sound that good. I'll be taking it in after work to get this sorted hopefully for the last time.

The high/low converter box also turns the sub on as soon as I open the car door which eliminates the need to have the ignition on to use it. The sub shuts down several minutes after the I lock the car

Yep had it grounded.

 

Turn the "auto turn on" slider to "off" rather than "on" and it will only turn on when ignition is on.

And I assume these high level to low level converters need to be powered?

I assume 4 inputs (R+/- and L+/-) outputs to 2 RCA's. anything else need to be connected?

 

Everything seems to be operating correctly now. The sub sounds pretty good I just need to dial it in a bit. I am now officially done with the audio upgrade: New speakers, Front/Rear wiring swap and low profile Sub. It's made a huge difference and I'm glad I decided to upgrade myself rather than opting for the hi-fi factory upgrade. It's been a real learning experience and a test of my patience.

toolazy...Yes the converter has 4 inputs and 2 RCA outputs. Just need RCA cables and you should be good to go.

Thanks everyone for the advice and the great info in this thread. I really appreciate it. My next mod will be 30% metallic tint.

Stoked

 

I'm puzzled why you need a converter when the Bass600 has both low level and high level inputs?

 

from my understanding the box converts the high level signal from the deck into a low level signal which you can then plug into the subs low level RCA inputs. I saw that some people on here just soldered RCA plugs onto the high level wires. The shop didn't think this was a good idea. I went to a couple of different shop and the general consensus was that high level inputs are not the way to go. I'm no expert on car audio so I could be totally wrong...

 

The Bass600 has a six pin connector for high-level inputs. Are they saying that there is some advantage to using their converter box, rather than the one in the Bass600? I wonder why, other than being able to sell you something.