ATTN: 2nd-Gen Turbo Owners with Oil Catch Cans (OCC)
#1
06-05-2011, 05:48 PM
ATTN: 2nd-Gen Turbo Owners with Oil Catch Cans (OCC)
Looking to speak / discuss / pick-the-brains of R55 / R56 / R57 turbo owners who've installed an oil catch can (OCC).
There's convincing arguements via NAM for both sides of the table concerning why you "need" one or not based on driving parameters and preventative maintenance.
I'm wanting to see and inspect right from first-person if possible.
Anyone have one in operation they are willing to walk through it and show what's such the 'big deal'?
- Erik
There's convincing arguements via NAM for both sides of the table concerning why you "need" one or not based on driving parameters and preventative maintenance.
I'm wanting to see and inspect right from first-person if possible.
Anyone have one in operation they are willing to walk through it and show what's such the 'big deal'?
- Erik
#5
06-09-2011, 10:06 AM
#6
07-01-2011, 09:38 AM
#7
07-01-2011, 09:49 AM
Well, I picked one up from BSH; arriving sometime middle of July due to backordering.
Supposedly BSH Speed Shop doesn't have many OCC's in use in Colorado and they're interested in the amount condensation the environment produces.
Hooray... I just turned into a guinea-pig.
- Erik
Supposedly BSH Speed Shop doesn't have many OCC's in use in Colorado and they're interested in the amount condensation the environment produces.
Hooray... I just turned into a guinea-pig.
- Erik
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#8
07-01-2011, 09:54 AM
#9
07-01-2011, 07:16 PM
#12
07-02-2011, 10:08 AM
Late to the party...but here's my $0.02...
I have been running a 42 Draft Designs catch can for about a year with very little collection of blow by oil.
In my opinion, based on my car's age and current tolerances, it's more eye candy than anything, but that may change as the engine ages.
YMMV
Cheers,
Tom
In my opinion, based on my car's age and current tolerances, it's more eye candy than anything, but that may change as the engine ages.
YMMV
Cheers,
Tom
#13
07-02-2011, 01:59 PM
#14
07-02-2011, 05:36 PM
#16
07-23-2011, 04:48 PM
"...pulling the oil vapor from your valvetrain..."
Background:
There's been heavy discussion on the N14's positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system and how it seriously influences the result of carbon build-up on the intake valves of the cylinder head. I wanted to systematically test and see if the amount of oil being pulled from the valve cover was based on engine design, or driver technique.
- Disclaimer -
As always, I am NOT responsible for the careless acts of others when using this DIY as a reference.
Basically all of you are smart enough not to stab yourself, the very important wiring, or the paint on your car.
Be careful and take any precautionary measures that you deem necessary for completing this task.
Supplies:
* BSH Spped Shop - Competition Oil Catch Can (#20201011) assembly kit
* BSH Speed Shop - Direct Dual Boost Tap (#20201102)
* locktite or hightemp RTV silicone
Review (Direct Dual Boost Tap):
Following the outlined details from BSH's website, I started with assembling the billet boost tap housing and fitted the O-rings and the block-off plug. To ensure the seal of the plug, I lightly smeared a layer of RTV silicone on the threads and then snugged it down. Currently at the time of installation, I wasn't planning to run a boost gauge, so I attempted to fit in both of the 1/8"NPT vacuum port plugs. With the billet housing anodized after being fabricated, I could not get the vacuum plugs to properly thread. So bad, that I had to locate a 1/8" thread tap and re-tap and clean the threads to accept the plugs. After cleaning, again I smeared on some RTV silicone and installed the plugs. Fitment of the housing into the passenger side PCV spout was spot on and double o-ring seal was excellent. However the retaining hardware clip needed a quick sanding after being lasered out of stainless; it had some sharp edges and splinters that needed to be removed for installation and fit + finish.
Ratings (out of 10 scale: 1-poor, 10-perfect / learning: 1-hard / 10-easy)
Installation Time: 7
* very simple to orient direction; however had to clean up threads on housing
Learning Experience: 8
* simple, effective - however, BSH should include comprehensive paper directions within the box
Performance: 10
* perfectly blocks off the passenger side PCV spout and with no blow-by
Bang-for-the-Buck: 6
* it's seems expensive for a lathed / milled piece of aluminum; but that's because I think some of the quality control checks were lacking. If everything was simple from right out the box, this would have seen a higher rating
Overall Rating: 8.5
* properly fits within the engine bay and appreciate the black finish to make it not standout
Review (Competition Oil Catch Can):
The can assembly was similar in terms of assembling the billet tap barbs that attach to the driver side PCV spout and the turbo inlet pipe; fit both with the proper o-rings. Similar to the boost tap, no directions were provided in the box, printed them off to have a "quick cheat sheet" near me if thing went south. After removing the OEM PCV tube from the engine, I inserted the adapter barbs. The driver spout adapter went in without a hitch; however the turbo inlet tube adapter needed some serious grunt to put in. The o-rings on the inlet tube adapter were a little to fat and the plastic inlet tube actually cut into the o-rings slicing a small tangental piece. The seal still held after inserting, but the adapter has a small loose-feeling 'wiggle' to it.
Now, my 2009 model has the available security system with the hood latch sensor mounted to the same mounting place as the catch can. Instead of mounting underneath the mounting tab or underneath the sensor (which would have improperly raised the sensor above the weather sealing), I made a replacement bracket out of 18 guage 304 stainless. Similar to the catch can and the OEM sensor bracket, I cleaned and painted the L-bracket and the new sensor bracket so that would not stand out in the engine bay.
Once the can was mounted, the plastic tab of the cowl didn't seem to happy about the excess weight. The can kind of 'flapped' around and made me hesitant to continue, as I thought surely a bump impact from the susension may crack this tab off, dropping the can. But I pressed on and installed the push lock tubing. I measured, aligned and cut the tubing to my desired lengths. After installing, the can flopping sensation went away; great! However, now my eyes were distracted by the white imprinted lettering on the hose. I removed the hoses from their connections and wiped them down with acetone; within seconds the white lettering was removed leaving just a clean tube. Re-installed and was content and the appearance.
Ratings (out of 10 scale: 1-poor, 10-perfect / learning: 1-hard / 10-easy)
Installation Time: 8
* BSH estimates an hour, I spent just under 45 mins.
Learning Experience: 7
* complete kit; great craftsmenship, but again BSH should include comprehensive paper directions within the box
Performance: 9
* after just a quick drive, I already saw oil collecting in the can
Bang-for-the-Buck: 8
* fit and finish of the can is higher than the boost tap assembly; love the wrinkle finish and the detail work
Overall Rating: 9
* the final result would pass by even the most picky of on-lookers; assuming you put in some elbow grease to clean up some loose ends.
Follow up with how-much oil is pulled will be recorded and posted by the end of summer.
- Erik
Background:
There's been heavy discussion on the N14's positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system and how it seriously influences the result of carbon build-up on the intake valves of the cylinder head. I wanted to systematically test and see if the amount of oil being pulled from the valve cover was based on engine design, or driver technique.
- Disclaimer -
As always, I am NOT responsible for the careless acts of others when using this DIY as a reference.
Basically all of you are smart enough not to stab yourself, the very important wiring, or the paint on your car.
Be careful and take any precautionary measures that you deem necessary for completing this task.
Supplies:
* BSH Spped Shop - Competition Oil Catch Can (#20201011) assembly kit
* BSH Speed Shop - Direct Dual Boost Tap (#20201102)
* locktite or hightemp RTV silicone
Review (Direct Dual Boost Tap):
Following the outlined details from BSH's website, I started with assembling the billet boost tap housing and fitted the O-rings and the block-off plug. To ensure the seal of the plug, I lightly smeared a layer of RTV silicone on the threads and then snugged it down. Currently at the time of installation, I wasn't planning to run a boost gauge, so I attempted to fit in both of the 1/8"NPT vacuum port plugs. With the billet housing anodized after being fabricated, I could not get the vacuum plugs to properly thread. So bad, that I had to locate a 1/8" thread tap and re-tap and clean the threads to accept the plugs. After cleaning, again I smeared on some RTV silicone and installed the plugs. Fitment of the housing into the passenger side PCV spout was spot on and double o-ring seal was excellent. However the retaining hardware clip needed a quick sanding after being lasered out of stainless; it had some sharp edges and splinters that needed to be removed for installation and fit + finish.
Ratings (out of 10 scale: 1-poor, 10-perfect / learning: 1-hard / 10-easy)
Installation Time: 7
* very simple to orient direction; however had to clean up threads on housing
Learning Experience: 8
* simple, effective - however, BSH should include comprehensive paper directions within the box
Performance: 10
* perfectly blocks off the passenger side PCV spout and with no blow-by
Bang-for-the-Buck: 6
* it's seems expensive for a lathed / milled piece of aluminum; but that's because I think some of the quality control checks were lacking. If everything was simple from right out the box, this would have seen a higher rating
Overall Rating: 8.5
* properly fits within the engine bay and appreciate the black finish to make it not standout
Review (Competition Oil Catch Can):
The can assembly was similar in terms of assembling the billet tap barbs that attach to the driver side PCV spout and the turbo inlet pipe; fit both with the proper o-rings. Similar to the boost tap, no directions were provided in the box, printed them off to have a "quick cheat sheet" near me if thing went south. After removing the OEM PCV tube from the engine, I inserted the adapter barbs. The driver spout adapter went in without a hitch; however the turbo inlet tube adapter needed some serious grunt to put in. The o-rings on the inlet tube adapter were a little to fat and the plastic inlet tube actually cut into the o-rings slicing a small tangental piece. The seal still held after inserting, but the adapter has a small loose-feeling 'wiggle' to it.
Now, my 2009 model has the available security system with the hood latch sensor mounted to the same mounting place as the catch can. Instead of mounting underneath the mounting tab or underneath the sensor (which would have improperly raised the sensor above the weather sealing), I made a replacement bracket out of 18 guage 304 stainless. Similar to the catch can and the OEM sensor bracket, I cleaned and painted the L-bracket and the new sensor bracket so that would not stand out in the engine bay.
Once the can was mounted, the plastic tab of the cowl didn't seem to happy about the excess weight. The can kind of 'flapped' around and made me hesitant to continue, as I thought surely a bump impact from the susension may crack this tab off, dropping the can. But I pressed on and installed the push lock tubing. I measured, aligned and cut the tubing to my desired lengths. After installing, the can flopping sensation went away; great! However, now my eyes were distracted by the white imprinted lettering on the hose. I removed the hoses from their connections and wiped them down with acetone; within seconds the white lettering was removed leaving just a clean tube. Re-installed and was content and the appearance.
Ratings (out of 10 scale: 1-poor, 10-perfect / learning: 1-hard / 10-easy)
Installation Time: 8
* BSH estimates an hour, I spent just under 45 mins.
Learning Experience: 7
* complete kit; great craftsmenship, but again BSH should include comprehensive paper directions within the box
Performance: 9
* after just a quick drive, I already saw oil collecting in the can
Bang-for-the-Buck: 8
* fit and finish of the can is higher than the boost tap assembly; love the wrinkle finish and the detail work
Overall Rating: 9
* the final result would pass by even the most picky of on-lookers; assuming you put in some elbow grease to clean up some loose ends.
Follow up with how-much oil is pulled will be recorded and posted by the end of summer.
- Erik
Last edited by bluefox280; 11-07-2011 at 06:43 PM.
#17
11-07-2011, 05:57 PM
I'm a believer now.
Same equipment as bluefox280 here: BSH catch-can and BSH Boost Port plug, but on an '07 R56S (N14 engine).
Installation of the can is on the passenger-side of the engine, because I have a DoS CAI now installed on the driver-side.
See https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...6-post502.html for photos.
I've been suctioning out 5-6 ounces of white oily gunky water every several-hundred-miles now.
Go buy the catch-can and the boost-port plug.
Installation of the can is on the passenger-side of the engine, because I have a DoS CAI now installed on the driver-side.
See https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...6-post502.html for photos.
I've been suctioning out 5-6 ounces of white oily gunky water every several-hundred-miles now.
Go buy the catch-can and the boost-port plug.
Last edited by basil49; 12-02-2011 at 06:05 AM.
#18
11-08-2011, 08:39 AM
#19
11-08-2011, 09:42 AM
The white oily substance is just water vapor and oil. It's pretty normal to get that sort of thing out of your crankcase. Water finds its way into your engine every time the air cleaner gulps, and as it gets run through the engine, it evaporates from the heat--but the vapor needs to go somewhere. As it condenses, it joins with the oil vapor and forms that lovely milky ick. And if you're in any kind of humid location, you will find more and more of this around.
#20
11-08-2011, 09:50 AM
No, probably not [...and I see wandrur beat me to the punch]. It's pretty typical to see white stuff too in the OCC effluents due to the interesting combinations of oil and water in the mix.
There are several photos over in the BSH OCC Thread that will confirm it as a common occurrence.
Dan, glad it's paying off for you.
There are several photos over in the BSH OCC Thread that will confirm it as a common occurrence.
Dan, glad it's paying off for you.
#22
11-08-2011, 11:16 AM
Since the turbo'ed "S"-model engines are direct injected, there's no fuel washdown on the backside of the valves in the cylinder head. As a result, the valves can have significant carbon build-up due to the oil vapor being baked on the valve. Many have documented that adding a catch has reduced the amount of carbon coking on the valves.
- Erik
#23
11-08-2011, 01:31 PM
The white oily substance is just water vapor and oil. It's pretty normal to get that sort of thing out of your crankcase. Water finds its way into your engine every time the air cleaner gulps, and as it gets run through the engine, it evaporates from the heat--but the vapor needs to go somewhere. As it condenses, it joins with the oil vapor and forms that lovely milky ick. And if you're in any kind of humid location, you will find more and more of this around.
#24
11-08-2011, 08:09 PM
Since the turbo'ed "S"-model engines are direct injected, there's no fuel washdown on the backside of the valves in the cylinder head. As a result, the valves can have significant carbon build-up due to the oil vapor being baked on the valve. Many have documented that adding a catch has reduced the amount of carbon coking on the valves.
- Erik
- Erik
#25
11-09-2011, 12:30 PM
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Simply put, the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) is designed to remove unburned hydrocarbons from above the cylinder head. The two ports (driver side and passenger side [closes during boost]) suck out the air from the valve cover that has oil vapor. With the passenger PCV plug and blocked, the evacuated air from the valve cover is directed through the catch can where the air is cooled to condense and fluid vapor. After leaving the catch can, the air is sucked into the inlet side of the turbocharger.
Since the turbo'ed "S"-model engines are direct injected, there's no fuel washdown on the backside of the valves in the cylinder head. As a result, the valves can have significant carbon build-up due to the oil vapor being baked on the valve. Many have documented that adding a catch has reduced the amount of carbon coking on the valves.
- Erik
Since the turbo'ed "S"-model engines are direct injected, there's no fuel washdown on the backside of the valves in the cylinder head. As a result, the valves can have significant carbon build-up due to the oil vapor being baked on the valve. Many have documented that adding a catch has reduced the amount of carbon coking on the valves.
- Erik
Woody
