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Junits15's JCW rescue mission
Hi All,
I wanted to document the work I've been doing on my 2006 R53 Mini JCW. A little background; I live in Massachusetts, and this car is formerly a Florida car but has been in MA for a while since I bought it. I bought it for $3500 with 140k off a guy in the next town over in very sorry shape.
My hope with this build is to rescue this car and bring it back to a state where I can be proud to drive it around. I’m not doing a full nuts and bolts restoration on this, just fix all the issues that prevent it from being drivable and do all the lingering and overdue maintenance. My philosophy is that while I’m doing one job, I will do anything else I can in the same general area to improve the longevity of the car. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...df8cc07cf.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...83ffece72.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...48572faa8.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...cc45c2a03.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...aed42ed18.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...acdb53dc6.jpeg |
Rodent evection
I initially began working on the mechanical issues the car had, one night around 11:00PM I heard movement in the interior, what sounded like a marble rolling around in the frame. It was mice eating acorns, from that point forward all mechanical repair work halted and the priority became evicting every single one of these things from the vehicle. I set traps behind the little hatches in the trunk, and while I was sitting in the garage cursing this man's name for selling me this mouse hotel a trap went off and killed a mouse. I killed two more that night for a total of three mice killed in the interior of this car in under 12H. I hope it comes across just how many that is, I kill maybe three per season in my house.
The car was up on jacks, and I suspect that made it hard for them to enter and exit, so they were starving, and the bait it the traps was just irresistible to them. The final mouse I killed looked like it had been partially eaten while it was dead in the trap. (really gross) So I think there was a fourth mouse in the car, but either it left on its own accord that same night, after I removed the interior, or never existed at all. The car has been up on jacks for two weeks now, and has been gutted for one week. I've seen zero evidence of rodent activity, so either this mystical fourth mouse left on its own accord, or my understanding of what happened to the third one in the trap was wrong. In either case, I'll be leaving some rodent poison blocks behind the panels in the event that a mouse decides to get crafty at some point in the future and try to return. I found evidence of 7 mouse nests total from the car, though I believe only one was active at the time of dissection
The cloth tape on the loom was entirely removed from every area except behind the dash. I found very little evidence of activity behind the dash, and no smell either. Removing the tape accounted for what felt like half of the smell of the car. I unwrapped, cleaned and scrubbed every wire in the interior of this car, including wires in the roof. All looms were re-wrapped in fresh Tessa cloth tape, and re-secured to their tie down locations. I used a combination attack on the mice and the smell they leave behind:
I'm going scorched earth with these little guys, I do not have time of day for mice in my car, I've already been fighting them in my house. Thankfully, they did not chew any wires, and did not enter the HVAC. Before, note the residue on the right hand ledge near the wiring loom and the general dusty dirty appearance of the car: https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...25a2319f8.jpeg After: https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...51728e3da.jpeg |
Diagnostics port repair
I took the dash off yesterday evening to check for rodents and nests behind it. Good news is it was clean, just a little dust and dirt that easily vacuumed out. When I had that all apart I figured it would be a good time to tackle the diagnostics connector issue.
The problem is that any scan tool cannot communicate. Initial debug was to use a multimeter set to continuity to check for a break in the k-line wire between the diag port and the ECU. I found no continuity on that wire and no shorts to ground. I started unwrapping the looms near the diag port and found that the k-line wire goes right to the main harness connector. I disassembled the connector housings and probed both ends. Probing from the ECU to the male connector: I ran my test lead across every pin and heard no beeps from the meter. Initially I assumed the wire was broken in the loom between the connector and the ECU, but on closer inspection I saw that the male pin for the K-line was corroded away. There was also another wire with a very bad solder repair in the bundle right at the connector, it was working but its on borrowed time. I decided to tackle both problems at one time and put both of those wires on a separate connector. I used a 2-pin Deutsche DT connector and routed both of those wires around the main harness connector. Continuity check looked good and my scan tool communicates now. Really happy about this fix, this was a good one to see. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...bb9e545455.jpg diag port working after repair https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...d4dc8e6f2.jpeg bypass connector shown in red circle https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...a7cee208b.jpeg dash removed |
Carpet cleaning and dash re-assembly
Cleaned the carpet and put the dashboard back together today.
dash was easy just had to remember where all the screws were. I mounted a boost gauge as well. Got it in a trade a few years back but I had an NA car. So it has finally found a home. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...65aea5174.jpeg Dash back together, boost gauge mounted and wired https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...ec57b5916.jpeg The CF panels have yellowed over the years, really sad because I don’t think it’s fixable. I can’t imagine these are cheap https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...693f8d819.jpeg Nasty water coming out of the carpet https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...3aa7bd9d8.jpeg I think it’s a mixture of mouse droppings, vape smoke, weed smoke and dirt. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...8274d46e0.jpeg Used my carpet extractor until it ran clean https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...059e940f1.jpeg Hung to dry for a few days https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...dc00d60f1.jpeg Installed a cheapo Amazon auxiliary input kit. |
Carpet is dry and cleaned. I used some of this enzyme cleaner to get the final bit of smell out Dead Scent Enzyme spray
Its funny, every time I think I've got al the smell out I find another place that needs to be cleaned. The bottom of the passenger side front seat smells bad, I think I didn't notice this before because the odor from the car and the rug was overpowering the seats. So in comparison they smelled fine. I'm starting to actually get the feeling that this could be a good car soon... |
nice job
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Speaker repair
The front two OEM speakers had seized, and the rear two were part of the mouse bathroom network. So I replaced them all last night with some new ones.
nothing fancy just some entry level Kenwood 6.5” up front and 6x9” in the rear. sounds great now! The volume knob on my radio is messed up though, guess I need a new one. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...f6c3c6088.jpeg Needed spacers for the rear speakers to fit https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...494fa13a3.jpeg Front speakers were blown https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...e630f30e8.jpeg Fits perfectly |
Nice, yep the speakers cones go bad or the terminal rust on the back, mine did that.
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yeah that's exactly what happened, the voice coils seized in the magnet, and eventually the cone fully detached. The door is not well sealed, I’m not surprised they failed. I'll need to come up with a long term solution for this to keep water away from the speaker.
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yep, i took a while but mine rusted. Maybe like ever 6-8 years it did that on my 2005.
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Tail lights and more interior
The tail lights that came on the car were faded and cracked, I suspect they were already not OEM
they wouldn’t pass mass state inspection, I don’t have a picture but they were really bad. So I took a risk and slapped some Spec-D tails in. They look good, we will see how long they last. got a new radio, turn signal stalk, plastic shifter surround, trim pieces and styrofoam for under the rug off a member here. Threw all that stuff in and it’s looking nice now https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...941b40310.jpeg Spec d tail lights https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...67eecf6b1.jpeg More interior done |
Rear interior and pillar panels
Cleaned up the rear plastic paneling and the gray pillar covers.
looking much more like a car now https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...e6c4cf505.jpeg |
Interior is complete!
I decided to put the rest of the interior together, the headliner dried out and I was looking for something to kill some time.
Sadly the front seats seemed to have absorbed a little odor, I really didn’t want to disassemble them entirely in the hope it would go away. So after bolting them down and putting all the trim pieces back in the car I used a Dead Scent chlorine dioxide odor remover pouch. Supposedly this is supposed to kill all really hard to clean odors out of the car in a few hours. The idea is that the ClO2 gas is highly reactive and reacts with all the scent causing particles left in the car. Leaving nothing behind. It’s not a fragrance or a perfume, so I have hope that it will work. i checked to make sure there was no mouse activity inside the seats, and I’m certain they never entered them. It seems like they just basked in the smell of the car for so long that they absorbed it. knowing that they are clean and the odor isn’t from droppings or dirt, I felt confident using the odor killer pouch. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...34b3ba963.jpeg Headliner and all trim back up https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...aca26fc3b.jpeg Dead Scent ClO2 odor remover |
Oil pan gasket
Replaced the pan gasket, old one was leaking a lot, and I really mean a lot. Used a fel-pro gasket, hope it holds!
The bottom horizontal bolt on the AC compressor snapped when loosening it, thankfully the compressor still came off easily so I’m just going to get a bolt at the hardware store. Also swapped the crank position sensor while I was in there, the seal was bad on the old one, and I felt it more prudent to replace the entire sensor than just the seal. Tuesday I plan to pull the supercharger. Update on the gas treatment for smell removal: I think it was the perfect choice, the lingering smell is 100% gone now. Car smells a bit like a pool but nothing else. It even did a number on the heavy perfume smell that was in the glove box. Overall, I'd recommend this for smelly cars. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...d9820f801.jpeg Engine degreaser to try and get some of the goo off before pan gasket https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...e93931838.jpeg Pan off, minimal sludge https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...4d5948b40.jpeg No varnish to be seen! https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...3af17d118.jpeg Pan cleaned ready to go back in. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...86767ce8ef.jpg Pan back in |
Quick update, I'm not able to communicate with the car using INPA, which means I am likely missing more pins at that large connector :impatient:
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You are doing an awesome job on this. I love your approach of diving in - stripping it down and tackling what needs to be done.
So good. I don't know what your thoughts are on the yellowing carbon on the dash, but I have a DIY idea. There's a paint that adheres to plastic - it's actually for headlights: Sticks to glossy surfaces that are tough to paint. You can find it cheaper than this I'm sure, and there's also a black version but your car is red and lots of cars (like my R52 S) have exterior color on those panels. I bet if you hit it with the red nite shades paint, the yellow would actually help it pop and probably get closer to that brighter red of your exterior. I'd just do some dusting coats, even. Let that dry. Take a look. Good enough? Another subtle coat. Let that dry, take a look... until it's just right. I bet that would leave the CF look, eliminate the yellow, and also give it a custom look even. |
Originally Posted by geolemon
(Post 4685789)
You are doing an awesome job on this. I love your approach of diving in - stripping it down and tackling what needs to be done.
So good. I don't know what your thoughts are on the yellowing carbon on the dash, but I have a DIY idea. There's a paint that adheres to plastic - it's actually for headlights: Sticks to glossy surfaces that are tough to paint. Amazon.com: VHT SP888 Red Nite Shades - 10 oz. : Automotive You can find it cheaper than this I'm sure, and there's also a black version but your car is red and lots of cars (like my R52 S) have exterior color on those panels. I bet if you hit it with the red nite shades paint, the yellow would actually help it pop and probably get closer to that brighter red of your exterior. I'd just do some dusting coats, even. Let that dry. Take a look. Good enough? Another subtle coat. Let that dry, take a look... until it's just right. I bet that would leave the CF look, eliminate the yellow, and also give it a custom look even. Thank you! I appreciate the reassurance that I'm not royally screwing this up :) In reference to the yellowing, I like the product you linked. I've seen that used before on tail lights and it looks decent. I did some research and apparently the yellowing is actually just a thin layer on the top of the coating. From what I've seen it can be sanded and re-cleared to restore it. I'll be giving that a try eventually. |
Supercharger service, valve-cover, motor mounts, and tensioner
Tons and tons got done this weekend.
I started by removing the supercharger, and right off the bat I found zero oil in the water pump side. Immediately concerned I pulled apart the PTO and was really happy to see no damage at all to the gears. Sadly it seems that even though the gears survived, the charger itself is still on its last legs. The entire thing is a tiny bit noisy when rotated by hand. I wouldn't say its blown, but its definitely tired after 140k. I opted to just add oil and put it back in the car. It is currently working and I just don't have it in the budget at the moment for a new unit. I don't know how long it will last, but it will eventually fail. At that point I'll likely go for a refurbished unit. I re-sealed the water pump PTO with anerobic gasket maker, and added in the appropriate amount of GM supercharger oil to each side. I used a cheap rebuild kit which included al the o-rings and gaskets I need to service the supercharger. Came in really handy, and even included an o-ring for the dipstick! I did use a Mahle supercharger inlet gasket, just because that seemed like a better choice. I then removed the vacuum tap for the JCW airbox flap. Its a cool little feature, but the actuator is broken and its simply not worth fixing to me, so I decided to plumb it like factory and eliminate a potential vacuum leak in the future. The fuel pressure regulator gets a boost reference from the manifold near cylinder 1. I dug around in my parts box and found a little vacuum tee and some rubber vacuum hose. I teed off this boost reference and ran the hose to my boost sensor for my AEM gauge on the dash. Easy and totally hidden under the intercooler, exactly how I like my mods :) I replaced the valve-cover gasket with a new one from Mahle, included spark pug gaskets too. The original bolts were in bad shape, two were totally unusable from rust and I had to hammer on a 7mm socket just to get them off. I dumped the rest of them in a tub of Evaporust overnight to clean them up. When I re-installed them I tried to be good and use a torque wrench, but my harbor freight torque wrench is not accurate at low torque and one of them snapped :( Thankfully because I dissolved all the rust off them it was very easy to extract. I have three new bolts on order. The passenger side motor mount was totally blown, oil leaked out the bottom when I removed the bolt, threw a new one in and problem solved! I also did some DIY injector cleaning. I bought an injector controller/pulser box on amazon and a new set of injector filters. First the injectors took a heated ultrasonic bath in some 50% methanol solution (only ever heat methanol outdoors!) this knocked off most of the dirt and I hope loosened up the internal buildup. I rigged up a contraption shown below which allows me to pressurize the injector with carb cleaner and then pulse the injector with the controller box. I ran each injector both ways like this, and then ran some Lucas fuel system cleaner in them too. Injector number 4 was leaking, so we will see if this works and brings it back to life. Otherwise I'll send them out for professional cleaning. New filters were installed with no fuss. Started the car up and it was happy, so I didn't break them! I also put on a new serpentine belt, belt tensioner, and idler. The old idler was noisy and I felt it was best to do everything all at once. That's all for now, next move is to put the new PS reservoir on and then put the front end of the car back to gether! https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...ff93fbba1.jpeg Water pump PTO gears look good https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...e0c3862b7.jpeg Water pump side, no carnage https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...a72a0cd79.jpeg Rotors look good, zero play https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...646880461.jpeg Deleted the JCW vacuum tap for for the air box flap control https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...d9c37cec9.jpeg Supercharger, AC compressor, and alternator removed https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...4eaf17efe.jpeg Tapped into fuel pressure regulator manifold port for boost pressure sensor https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...56db1e306.jpeg Boost pressure sensor location. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...3bf4b1b23.jpeg Rockers look super duper clean. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...7e194e8b0.jpeg Intake removed https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...0031bb9ae.jpeg Old vs new motor mount https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...8b3e76882.jpeg Everything back on https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...4b388b1c9.jpeg Fuel injector cleaning setup |
ONe step forward two steps back
1 Attachment(s)
Current update is that the front end is back ok, the cooling system is full, and I have a P1498 code. :sad: I did some old fashioned vacuum leak detecting with a can of brake cleaner and found that it has a vacuum leak at the green gasket on the supercharger inlet. Its a new gasket from Mahle, but I installed it wrong. I didn't realize that it requires you to really force it on to ensure a seal. I noticed that it didn't seem to sit as far in as the old one did when I first removed it but I didn't think that was a problem, turns out I didn't seat it fully and that's the leak. I'll be removing the crash bar and sliding the rad/condenser assembly out a little bit to give me enough room to work down there. I'm going to try and avoid draining the coolant again.
I also replaced the PS reservoir and flushed the fluid until it was clean. Someone here had told me that the old one may have just been overfull, but the leak was from the seam and it wasn't overfull. New reservoir also has a new filter, so probably the best choice at 140k miles. Still have axles and brakes to do but I want to get the engine stuff wrapped up before trying that. After installing the new tensioner and idler my belt system is totally silent now too. Old setup had a nasty squeak on first startup. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...1061157de2.jpg header smoking from spilled PS fluid Also pulled a muscle in my back pretty bad, so I'll be taking it easy until that heals up. |
Battling vacuum leaks and data link issues
The car is now running, no overheating or fan issues to be found. I still have a few issues
-vacuum leak code is still present, found more leaks near the throttle body. I’ll need to smoke test this - brakes are still bad - the horn doesn’t work. This is a new discovery - there is no datalink to any modules in the engine. I suspect more issues at the big connector today I’m helping my brother with his (much cleaner r53) so no movement on mine. I’m happy to see if on the ground again though! https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...8e80c1b99.jpeg Hella lights wired into OEM driving light harness https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...2188dee95.jpeg Looking great https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...7db10fab2.jpeg Lights working! |
Brakes and a leaky Green gasket
The horn was fine I just forgot to connect the wires under the airbag, an easy fix! Horn functionality is part of MA safety inspection so I'm glad that didn't fight me too much.
My Green supercharger inlet gasket wasn't seated well and was causing the P1498 code. I had accidentally folded the little tab under into the sealing surface and I thought that was my issue. Fixed that and the code remained but came back slightly slower. Then I realized that I hadn't seated the crankcase breather tube into the supercharger fully. Fixed that and the code remained. Frustrated I pulled the intake tube out and inspected it. When refreshing everything, I replaced the bypass valve discharge tube as my old one was hard and not sealing well. The new one I used was slightly longer than the original one. I think this was angling the intake tube down slightly and causing poor sealing at the green gasket. I also clamped the valve cover breather tube on the passenger side to the PCV valve. Just in case there was a leak there, that hose is pretty old anyway. The code hasn't returned, but I haven't driven the car yet, just idled it. So far so good! I felt confident enough to put the front end back on. I then turned my attention to the brakes, the pedal was very soft when I bought the car and the brakes ground and made horrible noises. I bought PowerStop Z23 brake pad kits for the front and rear, and then went with the cheapest non-sotted/drilled Geomet coated rotors I could get off rock auto. I found that the front pads were almost completely gone, just about to trip the wear sensor. They were EBC YellowStuff, I suspect they would brake better if they were warm. Rotors had a nasty lip on them. It all came apart easily enough, and didn't fight me too much on re-assembly. Rears probably didn't even need to be replaced, they had a ton of life left. However I was already in there and opted to replace them anyway. I flushed the fluid using my Motive Products pressure bleeder, the front two were no fuss at all and bled easily. Driver side rear bleeder was a bit tight but opened and bled as expected and the fluid flowed clean. I never noticed and air bubbles in the brakes. The passenger side rear bleeder snapped off :cry: I tried an extractor and stopped because it looked like I was going to snap that off too. If I had heated the bleeder before I turned it it may have come out, but hindsight is 20/20 I guess. I'm going to pick up a bleeder screw today and try heating it but I'm temped to just replace the entire caliper. The piston on that side really didn't want to compress, I suspect there isn't much time until that caliper seizes entirely. Right now the pedal still feels a bit soft, but the passenger rear corner isn't bled so I wont assume there's any issue until that is done and the brakes are bled. I am concerned the master may be leaking internally but I'll hold off on that panic for now. On the bright side I found that my wheels are genuine Enkai RPF1's! I assumed they were reps! I may have these re-finished if I like them enough. Once I get these brakes done up the car will be ready for inspection. I'm planning on registering it and getting plates this week. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...632d960f2.jpeg Cheap tensioner tool failed https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...f9e882bf6.jpeg Tab folded under green gasket https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...81ed763c0.jpeg Wheels are the real deal! |
Brakes
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we have plates!
The car is insured, registered and road legal!
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...d490923d29.jpg I drove it around a bit and found that even with the new pads and rotors the pedal was still really soft. I bled all four corners and no dice :cry: I thought it may be the master cylinder so I ordered this one off autozone: https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...2472335200.png Reasoning for thinking is was the master was that no matter what, the pedal always went to the floor. I assumed that meant fluid was leaking around the piston. If you can spot the problem good on you! My car has DSC and that means it has an additional sensor on the brake master. This caused a bit of a problem, I need to have this car safety inspected by Friday, and that means I don't have time to wait for the right brake master. So I disassembled the non-DSC cylinder and transplanted all the new internals to the DSC cylinder. Essentially performing an extremely expensive master cylinder rebuild. The master seems to work better now! https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...482e76580a.png The issue is that I'm having a really hard time getting the air out of this system now. Its stopping much better with the rebuilt master cylinder, the pedal feel is much improved too I can't bottom it out all the way any more. Its just still spongy, there must be air hiding somewhere. |
a) Congrats on a HUGE milestone of actually being on the road, not just drivable, but legal.
I assume this means you got your horn working? If not, I accidentally purchased two dual-tone car horns at some point along the way. Just generic horns, not MINI-specific, but there's no science to horns. I'd be glad to give you one or both, free (they are identical so in theory you could hook both up in parallel and get 2x the honk). Just whatever UPS would cost. b) I replaced all the calipers on my wife's car recently (an Acura, not a MINI), and even after going around the car an extra time after I already saw no bubbles, she initially said her pedal was a touch soft and a bit lower than it originally was. She's been driving around a couple weeks now and she says it seems "eh, I don't know, a little better, I guess" the last time I offered to pull her wheels off again and do another round of bleeding. I'm not sure if it's possible but I wonder if some micro-bubbles can exist or something and maybe work themselves out with a little time. But I'll be staying tuned, maybe what you find with those, I can try for her too. c) I like the rally lights on your car better than the ones on my R52 S - where did you get yours? Or were they always on the car? I've been casually browsing for replacements. In my case I need chrome ones. Congrats again, looking good. |
Originally Posted by geolemon
(Post 4686756)
a) Congrats on a HUGE milestone of actually being on the road, not just drivable, but legal.
I assume this means you got your horn working? If not, I accidentally purchased two dual-tone car horns at some point along the way. Just generic horns, not MINI-specific, but there's no science to horns. I'd be glad to give you one or both, free (they are identical so in theory you could hook both up in parallel and get 2x the honk). Just whatever UPS would cost. b) I replaced all the calipers on my wife's car recently (an Acura, not a MINI), and even after going around the car an extra time after I already saw no bubbles, she initially said her pedal was a touch soft and a bit lower than it originally was. She's been driving around a couple weeks now and she says it seems "eh, I don't know, a little better, I guess" the last time I offered to pull her wheels off again and do another round of bleeding. I'm not sure if it's possible but I wonder if some micro-bubbles can exist or something and maybe work themselves out with a little time. But I'll be staying tuned, maybe what you find with those, I can try for her too. c) I like the rally lights on your car better than the ones on my R52 S - where did you get yours? Or were they always on the car? I've been casually browsing for replacements. In my case I need chrome ones. Congrats again, looking good. Thank you!!! I did get the horn working, I just forgot to reconnect the horn wire when I put the steering wheel back on. Appreciate the offer but mine is working great now lol. I also have a set of hella supertone horns sitting on the shelf, I'll probably use those in the future. These stock horns are weak. You may have the same issue I believe I do, which is that I think i have air in the ABS module and the master cylinder. The manual has a very specific bleeding instruction that must be done when a major component (master cyl or ABS module) is removed. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...9c8a60a2e3.png https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...bc0a02b9b7.png If this doesn't work I'm going to try and "bench bleed" the master without removing it from the car. The lights are Hella 500FF 6" driving lights. The have a black plastic body and then a glass lens. I got them off amazon I really like them, they're currently wired into the factory light wiring but I want to modify it so that they can be turned on at any time. Right now they only come on with the high beams. |
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