It definitely looks good.....

 

Progress is going well..didn't have to fight anything.
but my gadkets didnt arrive and I had to reorder them and I'm going to pick up one from O'rielys 1st thing in the a.m .
also sweeeeeeet , I got a message from the seller with the headlights telling me heads up for a 2nd shipment because the factory accidentally shipped another service of lights AND said I CAN KEEP THEM ! SWEEEEEET ! so if anyone needs a set of brand new aftermarket lights for 150+shipping or trade , lmk.

 

I had those headlights, we actually launched those with spyder lighting, I liked them and then we got the new ziza led ones and they were a huge leap in being able to see and focused beam projection.

The ones you have look like the halogen ones and not the xenon to xenon ones?

 

I unfortunately did buy halogen and i put in led bulbs and now i only have running lights NO headlights so I need to try and put the halogen bulbs back in because I'm sure the cheap led bulbs ARNT 2x stage like they claimed..

 

Sweeeeeeeet , turbo is on..
other than having a terrible oil leak from the top feed port that got ALL over the turbo and had to repeat the exhaust clamp a few times but after I fixed those things..I think everything is all good !!!!
I miiiiiight have a little leak from the block to the turbo feed line BUT it might just have been from the top feed pissing oil everywhere. I let it idle awhile and bled the coolant.
I also primed the turbo befor I started it too , that's how I found that 1st oil leak..
I haven't driven it yet because it's dark aaaaaaand no headlights BUT as I drove it to my parking spot out my garage, u gave it a full throttle pull in 1st gear AND HOLLY **** this turbo sounds like a fricken airplane jetliner !!! Woooooow , it also felt like it didnt over boost and pulled JUST like it should. I didn't watch my boost or will I consider it fully fixed until I can test drive it better and verify that feedline isn't leaking.
anyways here's pics and a quick video...

 

 

Nice! I see you had the stretch your inlet tube to fit. Did you happen to measure the inlet size compared to the JCW turbo?

Also, looks like your turbo oil drain doesn’t have the heat shielding on it, and you installed the heat shielding to the feed line? Hopefully you don’t have issues from that. I was under the impression the drain needed the heat shielding because it was so close to the exhaust….

 

yea I put on all the shielding , only one I didn't was that top square thingy that clips onto the turbo clamp. That flexi tube on the feedline IS a heatshield and it wraps down on the libe under and tge flex line is behind the heatshielding too.. it didnt sit near as close to the exhaust as the hardline did.. unless im mussing what your referring to ??? But i absolutely did put back all the shielding..
and if i remember correctly the intake side of the turbo is 10mm larger , I will have to 2x check. Buy lol not only did the have to stretch the tube I ALSO had to cut a layer of silicone out of it so it could stretch more and have a little extra room and it was baaaaaaaaaaaaaaarely enough to get on. Had I saved the pcv adapter thingy I would have just heated and used the oem jcw intake tube because without its adapter in it , it was verrrrrrry close to fitting and a bit of heat absolutely woulda made that go on much easier than my aftermarket intake. O well , my aftermarket intake has a much larger circumference where it begins to and tapers down, it also sit higher off the valve cover and vacuum pump area too.
I just PRAY that feedline from the block isnt leaking because i will have to spend 3hours removing and reinstalling the downpipe and those heatshields ( though I'm getting pretty efficient at it now ).
I don't know if I will have time to even test drive it today because I have a hectic day that's about to begin.
But cross ur ***** and pray to Mr John cooper him self that all is well and the love i been showing this car has gotten it running how it should..
side note : I LOOOOOOOVE these brembo pads !

 

I am referencing this tube, the oil drain line:
In this picture, that tube has the slip on heat shield:
But then, in this picture, that heat shield is on the oil feed line:
I hope you don't have any issues with the drain line without that heat shielding in place.

 

my stock didn't have a heat shield on it at all so I just followed what was already on the car , I guess I could wrap it though juuuuuust to be safe if I have to fix the feedline if it is leaking.. that heatshielding tube was for the feedline uptop to shield it from the manifold per the instructions..
and btw , my turbo intake side is 50mm give or take a mm or two so it's Def larger..
I will upload a video soon so you can hear the turbo and see how it boosts..

 

I didn’t realize the kit had instructions…

 

lol yeah, surprisingly and they were in English..lol..
but now that i remember, I did CUT off the cloth type sheathing around that drain tube the factory had on that was the heatshielding you were referring to. I remember now because i had to inorder to slide the clanp up to get the drain hose out, so I better get under there and wrap it then how it was juuuuuuust to be safe.
I wont be able to get to it today though but i am hoping to test it out Sunday.. aaaaaaaaand if my built r53 sells. Little copper cooper here will get to have the garage and will be getting a ton of money thrown at it to fix every dent n ding on the body and possibly get the carbonfiber hood , fenders and spoilers..

 

Yup, here is the OEM part:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...e/11658617069/

 

lol yea I read the instructions wrong lol...
But I wrapped the return hose though to be safe and coated the heatshielding then too for abit more extea protection..

 

So I fixed the feed line from the block. I think I had the wrong copper gasket on it as it was A TAD bigger than the others.. I also put a better clamp on the bottom drain hose and antiheat wrapped that like it should be..
took it fir a drive , it still smoked... ugh
BUT it didnt smoke 1/10th of what it did before so I inspected it again but found NO oil leaks underneath atleast none I could see and I checked where it WAS leaking . It would leaking down the shielding, onto my pan then onto the downpipe /exhaust and smoke up over the turbo..
so I took a torch while I let the car idle and I heated the wrapping until it 1st stopped igniting and then once it no longer smoked i parked it.
I have to take the car on a decent little drive tomorrow so I'm praying PRAYING that I fixed the leak..
AAAAAAAAAND I FINALLY found AND bought JUST the AEM under scoop so I can finish my custom intake.
I'm also have a custom intake hose made that is all around larger and then it will also slide into my turbo and not need to be cut n stretched.

 

I hope you got that oil leaked fixed. Also, you should run 5w40 oil.

 

I wouldn’t drive it with oil leaking from or around the turbo/exhaust, to me just asking for a fire. I 2nd the 5w-40 as well, try LiquiMoly 5w-40 and a bottle of motor oil saver, this helped a little on oil burning.

 

I shall keep that in mind for next oil change..
is a 0 weight ok ? I'd prefer an 0 weight because I feel it help on startup valvetrain noise and I don't daily my cars also .
I'd LIKE to use the stuff ive used in my r53 sibxe owning it , after 3yr my cam still has 0 wear marks or grooves or anything what so ever.. I SWEAR by rotella 0w40.. i think of my cars use similar to how a work truck is used.. used occasionally but when they are they can be run hard.
lololol side note :
ITS FRICKEN 53'F colder rite now than it was just 12hr ago.. geeeeez !
aaaaaaaand since I had the wrapped downpipe on ive been carrying a little fire extinguisher around JUUUUUUUST encase lol. Better safe than sorry , exp when I had LEAKING OIL RITE ONTO THE WRAPPED EXHAUST.. lol yea , it was stinky..

 

There is almost no difference between 0w and 5w oils, so either will be about the same. However, 5w40 will tolerate higher temperatures better than 5w30 or 0w30. 40 weight oil doesn't get as thin at operating temperature. I would go do some research on oil weights to see what the numbers mean. I only run 5w40 in my car since I bought it, and change every 5000 miles. Bought it with 34k miles, and now I'm at 185k. Original timing chain, never had a walnut blast in the intake, and still runs like a champ.

 

Honestly, im down in Cincinnati and our temps swing just like yours, however we dont get as cold. I personally try not to drive my mini's on salty, snowy, or even wet roads, my wife hates it but i don't trust other drivers and im willing to lose the Tiguan not the Mini. We all know i wont get what it would cost me to replace the R53 and i thought i was doing the R55s a favor but that n14 didnt think so. Anywho back on the oil part, i ran Castrol 5w-40 and i found that i would burn a qt of it, just during a weekend of fun on the dragon, which would be at least 1000 miles in 3 days. I emailed LiquiMoly and that was their suggestion from one of their techs that was driving a R56s with N14 in it. I noticed that it cut that in half, which i was ok with. Im willing to bet the valve guide seals needed to be done, but not really the point here. So when i picked up the R53 i went LiquiMoly 5w-30 nothing added and mann filters. This combo even with the drips i had, i only had to add 1/2 qt of 3000 miles, which im sure was lost not burnt. This past oil change, i kind of forced myself to do, axle boot split so there was a nice milkshake on the ground that had me freaked out, pressed tested coolant just fine and dropped oil just to find it was oil, thats when i found the split. So I wasnt ready for this oil change, i have a wix filter and royal purple in there now and after 1000 miles i am down 2 tenths a qt. Probably way overthinking it but going to swap back to mann filter and LiquiMoly before my "spring break" trip to the dragon.

 

n14 and n18 2 totally different beast and you have maintain it for 151K miles of its life. Not all of them get the 5k treatment on oil.

 

Yup And based on my experience, I wouldn't hesitate to buy another N18 car.

 

Geez, not installing the new , more accurate higher psi STRAIT boost gauge.. I wanna know exactly what my car is boosting at so once I get this equis 60psi gauge installed I will know for SURE then what my max psi is because my torque app said I peaked 23psi WHIXH IS EXACTLY WHERE I want it but my digital ,inline boost gauge is saying 30+psi and I just cant imagine that being true..I think it woulda blew up by now running over 30psi for even 5seconds of wide open throttle. It seems to be holding it good , no bad or odd noise ect...
ille see how it smokes durring the drive later on today.. but daaaaaaamn it's cold.. stupid bipolar weather.
it was 65'F yesterday this time and it's 14'F rite now..ugh

 

Need a good reliable mechanical boost gauge tapped off the intake manifold. I don't trust the OBD "boost" reading.

 

aren't these map sensors, i could have the wrong sensors, set to a certain PSI? if im not mistaken there is one that has to be changed so that you can go stage 3 or more. Been awhile since i search N14 stuff.