Must-have mods for a Gen 1 JCW?
#1
Must-have mods for a Gen 1 JCW?
Just recently picked up a 2002 JCW and I'd love to make the car my own, make it unique!
I'm currently looking at getting a:
119mm rear sway bar
cold air intake
performance headers
a way to make my exhaust louder without causing a drone or make it sound like a Civic
(any recommendations are more than welcome for each of these, new to the Mini world)
any other recommended mods would be greatly appreciated also!
I'm currently looking at getting a:
119mm rear sway bar
cold air intake
performance headers
a way to make my exhaust louder without causing a drone or make it sound like a Civic
(any recommendations are more than welcome for each of these, new to the Mini world)
any other recommended mods would be greatly appreciated also!
#2
Intake choices:
aFe (CARB Certified)
Alta Performance
DDMWorks
M7 (CARB Ceritified)
OEM (JCW)
You might also check to see if Orranje ships their Stealth CAI to the US.
aFe (CARB Certified)
Alta Performance
DDMWorks
M7 (CARB Ceritified)
OEM (JCW)
You might also check to see if Orranje ships their Stealth CAI to the US.
#4
#5
#6
A possible problem worth noting.
If you have an actual JCW cylinder head...getting an aftermarket header may only partially help exhaust flow.
You will NEED to verify that the new header flange is the same size or slightly larger port opening than the JCW exhaust port opening.
The OEM header is smaller than the JCW exhaust port...thus making the enlarged JCW port mostly useless.
I bought an aftermarket header, nice (although a 4 into 1 design), with a converter, "ok" collector design, nice primary tube size...BUT the header flange (to head) ports are the same size as the OEM header flange ports. Again mostly useless on a JCW (or custom ported) cylinder head.
For your own good, verify the port opening sizes, You may need to do some grinding on the header flange to gain a benefit from an aftermarket header.
Mike
If you have an actual JCW cylinder head...getting an aftermarket header may only partially help exhaust flow.
You will NEED to verify that the new header flange is the same size or slightly larger port opening than the JCW exhaust port opening.
The OEM header is smaller than the JCW exhaust port...thus making the enlarged JCW port mostly useless.
I bought an aftermarket header, nice (although a 4 into 1 design), with a converter, "ok" collector design, nice primary tube size...BUT the header flange (to head) ports are the same size as the OEM header flange ports. Again mostly useless on a JCW (or custom ported) cylinder head.
For your own good, verify the port opening sizes, You may need to do some grinding on the header flange to gain a benefit from an aftermarket header.
Mike
#7
A possible problem worth noting.
If you have an actual JCW cylinder head...getting an aftermarket header may only partially help exhaust flow.
You will NEED to verify that the new header flange is the same size or slightly larger port opening than the JCW exhaust port opening.
The OEM header is smaller than the JCW exhaust port...thus making the enlarged JCW port mostly useless.
I bought an aftermarket header, nice (although a 4 into 1 design), with a converter, "ok" collector design, nice primary tube size...BUT the header flange (to head) ports are the same size as the OEM header flange ports. Again mostly useless on a JCW (or custom ported) cylinder head.
For your own good, verify the port opening sizes, You may need to do some grinding on the header flange to gain a benefit from an aftermarket header.
Mike
If you have an actual JCW cylinder head...getting an aftermarket header may only partially help exhaust flow.
You will NEED to verify that the new header flange is the same size or slightly larger port opening than the JCW exhaust port opening.
The OEM header is smaller than the JCW exhaust port...thus making the enlarged JCW port mostly useless.
I bought an aftermarket header, nice (although a 4 into 1 design), with a converter, "ok" collector design, nice primary tube size...BUT the header flange (to head) ports are the same size as the OEM header flange ports. Again mostly useless on a JCW (or custom ported) cylinder head.
For your own good, verify the port opening sizes, You may need to do some grinding on the header flange to gain a benefit from an aftermarket header.
Mike
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#10
Intake choices:
aFe (CARB Certified)
Alta Performance
DDMWorks
M7 (CARB Ceritified)
OEM (JCW)
You might also check to see if Orranje ships their Stealth CAI to the US.
aFe (CARB Certified)
Alta Performance
DDMWorks
M7 (CARB Ceritified)
OEM (JCW)
You might also check to see if Orranje ships their Stealth CAI to the US.
#11
#12
Vendor
iTrader: (10)
Well go with the Hsport comp bar as going with the 19mm will leave you wanting more as it won't be enough.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/h-spor...-sway-bar.html
For intake go DDMworks as it fits perfect and actually works
https://www.waymotorworks.com/ddm-in...per-s-r53.html
Headers are very little gain if any for the money, but if you go that way the milltek works well
https://www.waymotorworks.com/millte...fold-pipe.html
But I feel an 2% larger ATI damper will replace your stock crank pulley which is known to fail, but also give you a little bump in boost to make more power
https://www.waymotorworks.com/super-...ulley-r53.html
Then when you get further our Mild cam works great with the JCW head
https://www.waymotorworks.com/way-mi...t-r52-r53.html
https://www.waymotorworks.com/h-spor...-sway-bar.html
For intake go DDMworks as it fits perfect and actually works
https://www.waymotorworks.com/ddm-in...per-s-r53.html
Headers are very little gain if any for the money, but if you go that way the milltek works well
https://www.waymotorworks.com/millte...fold-pipe.html
But I feel an 2% larger ATI damper will replace your stock crank pulley which is known to fail, but also give you a little bump in boost to make more power
https://www.waymotorworks.com/super-...ulley-r53.html
Then when you get further our Mild cam works great with the JCW head
https://www.waymotorworks.com/way-mi...t-r52-r53.html
#13
Engine mounts, all of them.
Detroit Tuned Bypass Valve
Service your Supercharger before it dries up.
You can have the resonator taken out of the JCW exhaust, if you have one. It will make it a little louder for a very small price.
Detroit Tuned Bypass Valve
Service your Supercharger before it dries up.
You can have the resonator taken out of the JCW exhaust, if you have one. It will make it a little louder for a very small price.
#14
#15
And i I just looked up the resonator delete on the R53 JCW, I’m in love, great recommendation! Perfect amount of sound I’m looking to add
#16
I’m putting it in for some service this week, I’ll put that on the list of them to look at! Thanks!
#17
Have any engine mount recommendations? That’d be awesome to throw in, I didn’t even think of that. I’m putting it in for a little service this week so I’ll ask them to service the supercharger too! What does the Detroit tuned bypass valve do to the Mini?
And i I just looked up the resonator delete on the R53 JCW, I’m in love, great recommendation! Perfect amount of sound I’m looking to add
https://www.detroittuned.com/detroit...-bypass-valve/
The following 2 users liked this post by Derek86:
Detroit Tuned (10-10-2018),
Goldsmithy (10-20-2018)
#18
One thought on motor mounts...
I would NOT...replace all of the mounts with urethane on a "driver". If it were a track car, yes.
I've seen way too many "weakest link" parts breakage over the years, to go full stiff on an engine, transmission, or engine-trans. combination like the Mini.
SOMETHING...has to flex..!
You car, your money, me the top half is urethane, the bottom is stock rubber.
Mike
I would NOT...replace all of the mounts with urethane on a "driver". If it were a track car, yes.
I've seen way too many "weakest link" parts breakage over the years, to go full stiff on an engine, transmission, or engine-trans. combination like the Mini.
SOMETHING...has to flex..!
You car, your money, me the top half is urethane, the bottom is stock rubber.
Mike
The following users liked this post:
Goldsmithy (10-20-2018)
#19
I'd put all three Vibratechnics mounts in, fast road are so much better than OEM with no vibration and way less elasticity under throttle jerking the car around. If you want firmer for track but still with a lot of road use you can fit the race top and gearbox mounts but keep the lower one, as the race lower is what brings the vibration, it's a good compromise for a faster road car with some track use. It's great even on the road, keeping more of the energy driving forward but you may not like the cabin noise/vibes at idle.
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