for anyone interested, i data logged the intake air temperature with the stock intake and then with an aftermarket unit that made use of the factor air inlet but did not have an insulating lid. given the car is turbo'd and inter-cooled, the temps may not be as important on a NA car. that said, here's a summary of findings. the car has a very hot, and very tight engine compartment, i.e., it does not breathe well or exchange outside air. the stock air inlet is simply that....it does not function well generally as a ram-air device. the air intake inlet in the grill is subject to separation and vortices, such that cross-winds can negate the charge even at speed, resulting in temperature rise. most important, in the heat of the summer (the period during which the data was monitored and considered to be the worst-case scenario), and once the car has been running for some time (20 mins minimum), the cold-air intake ran consistently 40°F higher than ambient. that figure regardless of speed, i.e., in city traffic or out on the open road. the factory intake runs about 30°F higher than ambient at speed, and about 36°F higher than ambient in city traffic. the factory intake reacts to changes in speed, e.g., air intake temp will drop with the transition from city to highway speeds. the factory intake is also better insulated, so at cooler temps, say in the mid-40's, the intake air temps stay cooler significantly (more than 20 mins) longer than the aftermarket part. there appears to be an ambient temperature threshold where air coming over the radiators can overcome some of the excessive engine bay temperatures, and thus improve the air intake temperature from reduced heat soak. as fall approaches, that temperature should become more apparent. in any case, i expect the car to run much better once the heat of summer abates.

 

Thanks for the write up. Couple questions and maybe some organization of the data.

1. What aftermarket intake were you using?
2. What was the ambient temperature?

Let me see if I can confirm what you were saying.

Stock intake

• 30-40*F above ambient
• Slight decrease in IAT when transitioning from city to highway driving
• Stays cooler longer than aftermarket intake

Aftermarket intake

• 40*F above ambient always

 

i was trying to be generic, since they are all similar, save for a couple that use insulating covers. in this case, it was a Mishimoto, which i found to be well put together and using a quality filter.

ambient temps ranged from high 70'sF to 104°F. a couple of runs were made at cooler temps, in the mid-40's, F, but nothing long enough to establish reproducible results. that will have to wait for fall.

your summary is both succinct and correct. the aftermarket intake in this case did not generate any codes, performed well, and made audible the fun turbo/wastegate related noises. it did so however, at the expense of hotter intake temps, since so much of the surface area is exposed to the searing under hood temps, and the air volume coming in cannot compete. not too big an issue in the grand scheme of things, particularly since we're talking street use. as is typical now of well designed modern cars, the best intake for all around use tends to come with the car. putting an aftermarket unit on is mostly a noise maker as one wag said before on this forum in another thread.

 

Thanks for doing this. Shortly after purchasing my F56 JCW I did some intake temp comparisons with Torque Pro and found the stock system to stay just about 30-40 higher than ambient. Sitting in traffic the temps went up as expected but moving they come back down, as expected. Enough to convince me a 400$ intake wasn't worth the money.

 

this is only because aftermarket intakes are ***** which is made to fit into the same space as the OEM.

*We need a proper CAI designed to bend off the turbo, then to the right..so that it tucks the cone filter just behind the headlight. Only issue with this, is that the MAF wires dont reach to this position. As for the stupid breather hose/PCV connection and sensor.. both of those can be removed with no adverse effects or CEL. Its only the MAF connection preventing a better/more efficient placement of the intake filter.

 

 

 

it cooled off allowing comparison of the stock intake and the mishimoto. at ambient temps in the upper 40's F, the stock intake is even more effective at introducing cold air than the open intake. as at ambient temps in the 80's F, the aftermarket part ran hotter and stayed hot, averaging 35°F above ambient. the OEM box was subject to heat soak but to a lesser degree, with average temps running 18°F higher than ambient and pressing the throttle saw an immediate additional average drop in temp of 6°F. that kind of response was never seen with the open filter. the cooler ambient temps also saw some relief in oil temp and water temp....the cold air finally overcoming the heat of this very hot running engine. temps for both dropped 25°F. this car could really use a new hood design with some venting.

 

Venting through the hood with the idea of getting rid of hot air through the hood is not a good idea. This brings up the hottest air from the exhaust up past all the other hardware. This is hardware (electrics and hoses/wiring/plastics/etc) which you want to keep as cool as possible. Any venting at the hood should cause air to enter the hood and flow down through the engine compartment and out.

 

 

 

​​​​​​I actually removed the cravenspeed intake I had on the car which is a very similar design to the nm engineering intake due to heatsoak and not giving me the noise i was looking for. I am staying stock for now but honestly the best design looks like the Vipcustomparts airvip. It still uses the box and has some openings on the side of the drivers side headlight.

 

 

 

Company called eventuri was working on this as of December 2017.

https://www.facebook.com/EventuriIntakes/videos/1023748137765402/

 

Just a quick thought-MINI's also have a rubber seal at the back/top of the hood which "blocks" airflow out of the hood. Looking at my GMC truck and my brother's mid 70's Vette, they are open, thus hot air is not trapped under the hood and flows to cool the engine. Is this do to newer car's efficiency requirements to run hotter?

 

I'd say it's there for aerodynamics and to keep the elements out.

 

Perhaps engine noise as well. The MINI also has a bottom cover that goes from to rear too. Take a cardboard box. Open top and lay on side. Place an electric fan in front of it. Turn it on. The box will heat up due to fan motor. Resistance. No airflow. Cut a slit on the top/back and temps will drop. Airflow reduces temps. I may have to contact the MINI JCW IMSA team and ask them.

 

It is a street car after all, and has to be all things to all manner of uses. A hood that flows air will also flow the elements, much to the detraction of reliability. The car runs hot....on purpose. Not much to be done about it, so I say, drive it like you stole it.

 

Yes this is very similar to the data we found. It is even true on the Gen 2 MINIs as the open style intakes just suck in hot engine air.

That is why when people do want an intake on an F series I've been using the Afe, with the lid
https://www.waymotorworks.com/afe-f5...-s-intake.html

If you want actual lower intake temps a Forge intercooler that cools the air after the turbo is what will actually lower them and make it recover much faster.

 

 

 

Looks promising. May need bug screen on scoop (at least where I am from), hood mod may not be too difficult-drill and use muffler cutter...

 

I would be concerned about water though.

 

A solid slat along the top edge-a solid slat bottom edge, set back, should prevent most spray entering...and bugs.