2006 JCW - New to Me, needs some TLC
#1
2006 JCW - New to Me, needs some TLC
I picked up a 2006 BRG JCW Hardtop today. Drove it home to Metro Detroit from Pittsburgh, so it runs pretty well. It creaks and squeaks but all Gen1 cars do that in my experience. But here's what I've got on my list to look at so far:
1- The Brakes, I get a good deal of wobble when I apply them. Best guess is that the rotors haven't been looked after and are warped. But the pedal is soft too so maybe the pads are low or the fluid isn't cared for.....we will see.
2. Suspension - 11 year old struts have to be past their price right? I don't want to lower it, but that doesn't rule out coilovers. But I don't know enough about what I could do, am open to suggestions. Better ride would be nice, I'm not looking for track work just the best street driving experience.
3 - Paint. The good news, MINI repaired and replaced several body panels already (both rear quarters, the boot and drivers door). The bad news, the hood has a ton of rusting stone chips so it will need paint.
4 - Clutch. Again good news bad news....it's got a relatively new clutch and it works. But they went with the Valeo Single mass conversion. I had a 2004 JCW and the single mass clutch is a different feel and I'm not sure its an improvement. Not sure I can do much about it, like adjusting it or anything. I think it is what it is and I'll get used to it. Or I'll wear it out and switch it back ( seems expensive).
Then for fun..... the stock head unit is in fine shape BUT it's 11 years old and I don't want to carry CD's around anymore either. So it needs an update, I could add the aux adapter (bave done that before) it's a fine solution problem is a new head unit is cheaper and does more (even if it doesn't look the part. Any suggestions? Anything that does look the part?
1- The Brakes, I get a good deal of wobble when I apply them. Best guess is that the rotors haven't been looked after and are warped. But the pedal is soft too so maybe the pads are low or the fluid isn't cared for.....we will see.
2. Suspension - 11 year old struts have to be past their price right? I don't want to lower it, but that doesn't rule out coilovers. But I don't know enough about what I could do, am open to suggestions. Better ride would be nice, I'm not looking for track work just the best street driving experience.
3 - Paint. The good news, MINI repaired and replaced several body panels already (both rear quarters, the boot and drivers door). The bad news, the hood has a ton of rusting stone chips so it will need paint.
4 - Clutch. Again good news bad news....it's got a relatively new clutch and it works. But they went with the Valeo Single mass conversion. I had a 2004 JCW and the single mass clutch is a different feel and I'm not sure its an improvement. Not sure I can do much about it, like adjusting it or anything. I think it is what it is and I'll get used to it. Or I'll wear it out and switch it back ( seems expensive).
Then for fun..... the stock head unit is in fine shape BUT it's 11 years old and I don't want to carry CD's around anymore either. So it needs an update, I could add the aux adapter (bave done that before) it's a fine solution problem is a new head unit is cheaper and does more (even if it doesn't look the part. Any suggestions? Anything that does look the part?
#2
Welcome to the Facelift JCW Club that includes the LSD option. The best of the Gen1s.
Lots of information here on suspensions, take a look in the Gen1 Mod - Suspension section. IMO there is just about nothing you can ask about a Gen1 that is not here within the 85,000 Gen1 threads. Good ride, Koni FSDs, little sportier ride, Koni Yellows. Put a stiffer rear sway bar on and you have yourself a nice canyon carver.
Lots of information here on suspensions, take a look in the Gen1 Mod - Suspension section. IMO there is just about nothing you can ask about a Gen1 that is not here within the 85,000 Gen1 threads. Good ride, Koni FSDs, little sportier ride, Koni Yellows. Put a stiffer rear sway bar on and you have yourself a nice canyon carver.
#3
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Congrats sounds like you have a nice project starting.
If you have a vibration you likely have warped rotors, often happens when they get thin, or cheap aftermarket rotors. We have some great cost effective options there. https://www.waymotorworks.com/wmw-br...0-r53-r52.html
As for suspension the Koni FSDs are a great and cost effective option that won't lower the car, but improve the ride but still give you some performance
https://www.waymotorworks.com/koni-fsd-shocks.html
All the coilovers for these cars lower the car at least 1/2-3/4 inch. So if you don't want to lower it they won't work.
You will also need front control arm bushings if they haven't been done, the powerflex are the best and actually on sale.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/powerf...shing-kit.html
For the clutch it's a lot of work and expense. So I'd wait till you need it, or can't live with it any longer.
If you have a vibration you likely have warped rotors, often happens when they get thin, or cheap aftermarket rotors. We have some great cost effective options there. https://www.waymotorworks.com/wmw-br...0-r53-r52.html
As for suspension the Koni FSDs are a great and cost effective option that won't lower the car, but improve the ride but still give you some performance
https://www.waymotorworks.com/koni-fsd-shocks.html
All the coilovers for these cars lower the car at least 1/2-3/4 inch. So if you don't want to lower it they won't work.
You will also need front control arm bushings if they haven't been done, the powerflex are the best and actually on sale.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/powerf...shing-kit.html
For the clutch it's a lot of work and expense. So I'd wait till you need it, or can't live with it any longer.
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galahad (11-29-2017)
#4
Yeah warped rotors were my guess.
Michigan roads are bad....lowering the car just seems like asking for trouble, and isn't that almost entirely about looks (the lowering that is)? It seems for driving on the street, even if aggressively, new shocks would be best. Koni FSD's I've heard good things about for ride but don't know enough about them yet.
Maybe I'll get used to the clutch, just making my feet work a little better I suppose.
Thanks for replies so far.
Michigan roads are bad....lowering the car just seems like asking for trouble, and isn't that almost entirely about looks (the lowering that is)? It seems for driving on the street, even if aggressively, new shocks would be best. Koni FSD's I've heard good things about for ride but don't know enough about them yet.
Maybe I'll get used to the clutch, just making my feet work a little better I suppose.
Thanks for replies so far.
#6
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#9
So upon taking the car into my preferred shop.....
There are many of the problems I would've expected to see that weren't apparent on driving the car but need to be addressed nonetheless.
Power Steering leaks from the supply and return side of the reservoir.
Coolant leaks from the thermostat housing.
The front brakes have plenty of pad left but the rotors are warped....and nobody replaces rotors and leaves in the old pads do they.
The right rear brake, it's kind of grabby.
Oil Change,
I could find no evidence that spark plugs were properly changed as they should've been so those need to be updated.
The serpentine belt, was old, and needs to be replaced.
I gather from this that even though the previous owner had by no means neglected the car, they hadn't done a maintenance routine the way I would've. Maybe I value money less than he did. I heard Jerry Seinfeld say "you can't drive money" and while I don't have even small fraction of his money I do believe life is short and I like to drive so I'm following his advice......there are other issues too but I am addressing those later (it has an adjustable control arm on one back side but not the other? that's strange).
There are many of the problems I would've expected to see that weren't apparent on driving the car but need to be addressed nonetheless.
Power Steering leaks from the supply and return side of the reservoir.
Coolant leaks from the thermostat housing.
The front brakes have plenty of pad left but the rotors are warped....and nobody replaces rotors and leaves in the old pads do they.
The right rear brake, it's kind of grabby.
Oil Change,
I could find no evidence that spark plugs were properly changed as they should've been so those need to be updated.
The serpentine belt, was old, and needs to be replaced.
I gather from this that even though the previous owner had by no means neglected the car, they hadn't done a maintenance routine the way I would've. Maybe I value money less than he did. I heard Jerry Seinfeld say "you can't drive money" and while I don't have even small fraction of his money I do believe life is short and I like to drive so I'm following his advice......there are other issues too but I am addressing those later (it has an adjustable control arm on one back side but not the other? that's strange).
#10
Hi and welcome to the JCW area of gen 1! 06 are my favorite models. Congrats on your buy!
Sorry I am late with a reply, but been real busy lately.
Hey, they all need TLC at the age they are now, but they still are monster handlers and shame most cars on the twisties. These go-carts are made for twisties and I doubt there will be a much better substitution of these!
Show us some pics. We can handle it, if it is not up to your standard yet. We like to see the progression from now to finish!
Sorry I am late with a reply, but been real busy lately.
Hey, they all need TLC at the age they are now, but they still are monster handlers and shame most cars on the twisties. These go-carts are made for twisties and I doubt there will be a much better substitution of these!
Show us some pics. We can handle it, if it is not up to your standard yet. We like to see the progression from now to finish!
#11
It's funny I like looking at other peoples pictures but never think to take any of my own cars.
or you could check out how it was presented here:https://bringatrailer.com/listing/20...ooper-works-2/
Theres 4 inches of snow outside now so these pics are the best I could do for a few months anyway.
or you could check out how it was presented here:https://bringatrailer.com/listing/20...ooper-works-2/
Theres 4 inches of snow outside now so these pics are the best I could do for a few months anyway.
#12
#14
@mega72 "rotors do not really warp anymore, but they get uneven deposits and pulse the pedal"
I'd call that warped but either way, NEW ROTORS fixed that problem.
I happily got the car back with all major issues attended to, and some of the minor ones held off until later when I can research what I want to do (also when funds have been replenished a bit).
Rear lower control arms in certainly in the near future, as are new bushings (rubber does perish). I see someone makes titanium ones....but I can't imagine paying that kings ransom, is there any real advantage to anything over the stock ones? I don't plan on major alterations to suspension geometry so I don't see it. There's plenty of time.... we are quite snow (and salt) covered and there doesn't seem to be relief in sight for that.
I'd call that warped but either way, NEW ROTORS fixed that problem.
I happily got the car back with all major issues attended to, and some of the minor ones held off until later when I can research what I want to do (also when funds have been replenished a bit).
Rear lower control arms in certainly in the near future, as are new bushings (rubber does perish). I see someone makes titanium ones....but I can't imagine paying that kings ransom, is there any real advantage to anything over the stock ones? I don't plan on major alterations to suspension geometry so I don't see it. There's plenty of time.... we are quite snow (and salt) covered and there doesn't seem to be relief in sight for that.
#15
except it's not, you can fix deposits on rotors one of three ways but it might not be worth it considering centrix premium rotors are 35 $ each.
1: get the brakes HOT and re-bed again
2: throw on some track pads, it'll fix it quick
3: sanding wheel, the deposits will be obvious
Only reason I would run rear control arms is if I could not get camber adjusted right, early cars have more issues than later cars
1: get the brakes HOT and re-bed again
2: throw on some track pads, it'll fix it quick
3: sanding wheel, the deposits will be obvious
Only reason I would run rear control arms is if I could not get camber adjusted right, early cars have more issues than later cars