JCW DashCmd and other such performance apps
#1
DashCmd and other such performance apps
I'm amazed at the info one can now get without actual gauges. But, just for purpose of discussion how accurate are they? I've done some improvements to my JCW and I'm extremely pleased based on my butt dyno more than anything else, but also a bit shocked at the numbers from the Veepeak and Dash Command. I've now run it since my turbo repair and misc upgrades periodically running tests on how she performes. Today I decided to test a bit harder getting on a highway. It was a quick acceleration. I drove around a bit and stopped at a park to check numbers. Previously toying around it had hit in the mid 230HP range now I got near 260HP. Now the turbo repair shop said their upgrade should be good for 20-30HP, but I didn't just upgrade the turbo. So just some background here are my changes from a stock JCW:
1. Rebuilt JCW twin scroll turbo upgraded with K04 parts, polished and ported.
2. Exhaust manifold polished and slightly ported.
3. Wagner Tuning competition intercooler.
4. WMW noisemaker delete.
5. WMW turbo resonator delete.
6. WMW turbo wrap, also wrapped oil supply line.
7. Alta inlet tube for JCW.
Regardless of how real those numbers are she feels faster and stronger.
1. Rebuilt JCW twin scroll turbo upgraded with K04 parts, polished and ported.
2. Exhaust manifold polished and slightly ported.
3. Wagner Tuning competition intercooler.
4. WMW noisemaker delete.
5. WMW turbo resonator delete.
6. WMW turbo wrap, also wrapped oil supply line.
7. Alta inlet tube for JCW.
Regardless of how real those numbers are she feels faster and stronger.
#2
The HP and Torque readings are not accurate unless all the variable such as BSFC and VE are spot on. They typically read very high. The only accurate measure is a dyno. Also once you begin adding things like meth injection or turbo large enough to max out the MAF sensor their calculations go totally out the window.
#3
The HP and Torque readings are not accurate unless all the variable such as BSFC and VE are spot on. They typically read very high. The only accurate measure is a dyno. Also once you begin adding things like meth injection or turbo large enough to max out the MAF sensor their calculations go totally out the window.
I'm not up on all acronyms, where would I get information on the variables mentioned. I went in and added information on weight and so on, but some specific data is not that easy to come by.
A dyno would be a nice thing to try, but like all things cost is something to consider. So I kind of want to put it out there, are these gadgets just inexpensive toys only good for engine temperature or is there valuable data there and how does one tweek it for accuracy if possible? They do claim to read the information the car system is monitoring so how does that play into it? Again probably variables. So if it interprets info it must make assumptions.
At any rate it's fun, but I'm sure as with any discussion on HP the reality is detail. Any one use something like this before a dyno?
#5
I use DashCommand daily on my stock '14 MCSa and am happy enough with how & what it estimates. But I use it more for a what's normal baseline to determine if something's going south.
I.e. I don't need to know what true HP is, just "That's odd, it usually shows 180 HP when I push hard up this hill. Is something wrong?" sort of thing.
The one thing to be aware of is the inherent lag. The car OBD data comes at a slow rate (~10Hz) so things like the tach are noticeably jerky. When I redline it and let it autoshift up, sometimes it shows it shifted at 6500 sometimes 5800.
The one thing I do trust for accuracy is the corrected speed. I never look at the car's speedo - it reads high but DC reads dead on.
My dash: http://dashxl.net/forum/index.php?topic=9507
-Mike
I.e. I don't need to know what true HP is, just "That's odd, it usually shows 180 HP when I push hard up this hill. Is something wrong?" sort of thing.
The one thing to be aware of is the inherent lag. The car OBD data comes at a slow rate (~10Hz) so things like the tach are noticeably jerky. When I redline it and let it autoshift up, sometimes it shows it shifted at 6500 sometimes 5800.
The one thing I do trust for accuracy is the corrected speed. I never look at the car's speedo - it reads high but DC reads dead on.
My dash: http://dashxl.net/forum/index.php?topic=9507
-Mike
#6
Part of your original question ...
I think this is where I founds BSFC, gear rations, frontal areas & much other tech stuff. It's been a long time since I needed the site so I may be off. Try Google for Mini Specs too.
http://www.automobile-catalog.com/ca...automatic.html
-Mike
I think this is where I founds BSFC, gear rations, frontal areas & much other tech stuff. It's been a long time since I needed the site so I may be off. Try Google for Mini Specs too.
http://www.automobile-catalog.com/ca...automatic.html
-Mike