What 5W's R Needed 4 Sub 5sec JCW HB
 

I am looking to do it right, and seeking help from others who have modded there JCW's.

My goal, over the winter, is to mod my JCW (it is stock in terms of Performance) to attain an ultimate goal of a sub 5 second performer.

Though important (driveability) this is by no means a daily driver, I plan to enjoy it on the track.

As it stands now, the vehicle is very smooth, runs quick, but, by no means is it sub 5 seconds. Nor is it punchy in any area of the power band, it does not make a lot of power. But what power it makes, is consistent across a broad range.

Looking forward to what works from those in the *know (meaning, those with actual modded JCW's, and less so from "I heard it through the grapevine")

Cheers

I raced bikes for years and honestly can't understand why sub 5?
You might want to check here http://www.1320.co.uk/

I agree. I think sub 5 second 0-60 is possible, it'll be mostly undriveable. The front wheel design makes anything north of 300 bhp/300 ft/lb will mostly likely result in "chirping" through 4th gear. MINIs are design for being an overall driving experience, not 1/4 mile vehicles.

If you want to add power without Stage 3, then NM Eng Power Module is you best bang for the buck. New intake and exhaust will help, but I would strongly suggest focusing on handling and visuals, but they is my opinion.

by new intake, what exactly are you referring to...

Your best value modifications are ECU, either a remap or a power module chip. I have the NM and it provides about a 30 HP boost. The JCW PRO exhaust adds about a 9HP gain. There is some turbo lag, but acceleration is reasonably linear and impressive with a good torque curve. If you are looking for rapid acceleration there are many better vehicles for that than the mini. Mini's area of excellence is handling. The B48 is a torquey little engine as well.

My thoughts...
 

I love the handling for the mini, and other than wheel spacers, it is very good. Can it be improved? Most certainly.

I thought going down this road...

ENGINE
a) Engine module.
b) Cat bypass (not sure how much gains can be had)
c) Resonator Bypass (not sure if it would help)

I like the snap, crackle, pop of the factory exhaust (no moving parts to break) and am debating between Just B or B and C (of course A).

d) I am not sure how good the factory Mini inter cooler is at disappating heat effectively while running under boost. Most factory inter coolers are designed for street use.

Suspension
e) front mounted engine strut bar
f) front lower engine strut support
g) rear sway bar
h) sticky tires (for track only)
g) front and rear discs and pads (for track only)

Cheers

0-60 in under 5 seconds shouldn't require 300+hp, should it? SRT-4s were pushing right up to the 5 second barrier stock with ~220-235whp stock. Our cars, depending upon equipment, are generally within 100lbs of those. Why so much power needed to hit that figure? Is the torque limiting that these cars seem to employ in lower gears at fault?

After nearly 2 years of driving a nearly 500hp big turbo Golf R that ran 0-60 in around 3.2 seconds, I'm not really chasing magic numbers in this car, but it seems like a bolt-on or two and a piggyback or tune is all it should takes for these ones.

--Matt

my experiences...
 

I had a 1994 MR2 Turbo (3SGTE 2.0l engine) rear engine, rear drive.

To make 423 RWHP, the factory engine (OBD I) had; hks cams, blitz turbo regulator, Greddy Turbo, no cat, twin Greddy exhaust 3.5", HKS intercooler and intake plumbing, Heavy Duty Greddy clutch, HKS airflow management) it ran 19.5 psi of boost, and could overboost to 23.5 if need be.

I don't think with OBD II you can go down that route anymore, nor do I want to put that much money into the vehicle. But 300hp should be attainable, unless of course the closed loop design of the ECU has not yet been "hacked".

Cheers:thumbsup:

Compare apples to apples please.. The SRT has a completely different gearing. It is focused on 1/4 mile and 0 - 60. In the canyons a MINI will kick its ass.

It won't add much is any HP or torque. It gives you an auditory experience.

K&N Typhoon is fitted to mine. Makes a lovely sound.

+1. I love the sound of the K&N Tyhoon in my MINI.

I think that's a very valid point, except the canyon part that is irrelevant when comparing 0-60 times. If our engines rev'd out to ~6800-6900rpm or so, effective gear length would be close to the same. Avoiding the need for a second shift on the pull would be huge, and that hugely disappointing obviously software induced wet paper bag feeling past 6k would be gone :-P

Maybe Manic can bump that up? Seems like at least some b48 engined bimmers have a 7k redline, so it's probably within design limits.

--Matt