$2-3k in mods for a JCW... WHAT would you do!?
#1
$2-3k in mods for a JCW... WHAT would you do!?
Hey all - I've just acquired a low mileage factory '06 JCW and am starting to think through my plans for her...
I know there will be a whole bunch of haters that will throw me shade for even thinking on modding a factory JCW - I hear you!
To be clear, this is an exploratory exercise. See I wasn't looking for a JCW. My plan was to find a lower mileage MCS and then take a drive down to coast to see Jan at RMW - thinking I'd spend the money I saved on buying non-JCW w/ him. However, the car I bought was pretty much on par with what I planned on spending for a regular MCS. SO, those extra dollars for mods are now burning a massive whole in my pocket... (and i don't even have the car yet!)
FYI, I am coming from an '04 MCS w/ 15% pulley reduction, CAI, Hsport Comp Sway Bar, Bilstein B12 Suspension kit, w/ Borla Race Exaust. I'm looking for something that has similar handling but is quicker. I haven't even driven an 06' JCW yet FYI...
So yeah.. what do you guys think?
I know there will be a whole bunch of haters that will throw me shade for even thinking on modding a factory JCW - I hear you!
To be clear, this is an exploratory exercise. See I wasn't looking for a JCW. My plan was to find a lower mileage MCS and then take a drive down to coast to see Jan at RMW - thinking I'd spend the money I saved on buying non-JCW w/ him. However, the car I bought was pretty much on par with what I planned on spending for a regular MCS. SO, those extra dollars for mods are now burning a massive whole in my pocket... (and i don't even have the car yet!)
FYI, I am coming from an '04 MCS w/ 15% pulley reduction, CAI, Hsport Comp Sway Bar, Bilstein B12 Suspension kit, w/ Borla Race Exaust. I'm looking for something that has similar handling but is quicker. I haven't even driven an 06' JCW yet FYI...
So yeah.. what do you guys think?
#2
Get the tune, maybe get some KWs or Ohlins, do a brake upgrade, rsb, tires.
But before you do too much you might want to look at age prone bits. Cooling, belt, crank pulley, upper engine mount, all the rubber steering and suspension bushings.
#3
It depends on how happy you were with your previous mods. You could just duplicate the suspension setup, pulley, and ad a Jan tune. The JCW with a pulley and tune should be quicker than your previous car. If you change the pulley, make sure to get the proper pulley remover for the JCW pulley to avoid potential damage to the supercharger when you end up having to grind it off after trying to use the regular pulley tool.
If you’re thinking about coilovers, I’ve been really happy with ST XTA’s. Made by KW with adjustability like V2’s, linear springs, and adjustable camber plates like the Clubsports, all for about $1300. Not having the KW INOX bodies shouldn’t really be an issue in SoCal.
If it were my car I would do a 15% pulley, RMW/Newman street cam, SuperSprint or Orranje 4-2-1 header, ATI crank pulley, Jan tune, all three Vibra Technics road mounts, and an Amsoil nano cone filter insert instead of the paper JCW cone.
For suspension, ST XTA’s, H-Sport 25mm swaybar and rear control arms, Detroit Tuned/Powergrid endlinks, Powerflex front LCA bushings, R56 aluminum trailing arms, TSW X-brace, and good quality lightweight wheels with Michelin PSS tires.
To stay within your budget you would probably have to drop the cam, aluminum trailing arm retrofit, wheels and tires, and do the installs yourself.
If you’re thinking about coilovers, I’ve been really happy with ST XTA’s. Made by KW with adjustability like V2’s, linear springs, and adjustable camber plates like the Clubsports, all for about $1300. Not having the KW INOX bodies shouldn’t really be an issue in SoCal.
If it were my car I would do a 15% pulley, RMW/Newman street cam, SuperSprint or Orranje 4-2-1 header, ATI crank pulley, Jan tune, all three Vibra Technics road mounts, and an Amsoil nano cone filter insert instead of the paper JCW cone.
For suspension, ST XTA’s, H-Sport 25mm swaybar and rear control arms, Detroit Tuned/Powergrid endlinks, Powerflex front LCA bushings, R56 aluminum trailing arms, TSW X-brace, and good quality lightweight wheels with Michelin PSS tires.
To stay within your budget you would probably have to drop the cam, aluminum trailing arm retrofit, wheels and tires, and do the installs yourself.
#4
OVERDRIVE
iTrader: (1)
This sounds like a fun project.
I didn’t see camberplates. If they are not included in any of the suggested coilover options, a set of IE fixed camberplates are a great option. And brakes, the JCW brakes are marginal for the power and speed that car has. The Wilwood 12.2 BBK is a great option, too.
Keep us updated and have fun!
I didn’t see camberplates. If they are not included in any of the suggested coilover options, a set of IE fixed camberplates are a great option. And brakes, the JCW brakes are marginal for the power and speed that car has. The Wilwood 12.2 BBK is a great option, too.
Keep us updated and have fun!
#5
6th Gear
iTrader: (23)
Agree with Paul, take care of the basics first. Find and fix any leaks, replace worn bushings, replace fluids, check belt and tensioner, tires if needed. Check for mushrooming or cracked front strut plates.
Your JCW is already a hoot to drive. Can be improved with upgrading suspension (quality coilovers, camber plates, adjustable rear end links, rear sway bar, etc) and then brakes (R56 JCW, Brembo, AP, Willwood, etc)
Your JCW is already a hoot to drive. Can be improved with upgrading suspension (quality coilovers, camber plates, adjustable rear end links, rear sway bar, etc) and then brakes (R56 JCW, Brembo, AP, Willwood, etc)
#6
OVERDRIVE
iTrader: (1)
I always do brake upgrades first. Not very flashy, but if I am looking to go faster, first I want to be able to stop better. There is nothing worse than having your brakes fade out on you when you desperately need them.
Even if you don’t do a BBK right away, you need to change the brake fluid to a good high temp kind.
Even if you don’t do a BBK right away, you need to change the brake fluid to a good high temp kind.
#7
Check all the gaskets, belts, better grade sparks, cap, thermostat housing. Look into upgrading the brake lines, don’t go too crazy with the shock/coil overs. I would check the supercharger to see it’s condition and make sure it’s not rattling.
Drive it have fun and do upgrades as you feel the need. Tuning is alway an option JCW or not
Drive it have fun and do upgrades as you feel the need. Tuning is alway an option JCW or not
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#8
Aside from general maintenance, I'm working on roughly the same budget and it's tough. I could pare down the list and stay under $3000 pretty easily if it wasn't for the exhaust. I'm pretty cheap and always on the lookout for good deals on used parts.
Car: 2006 R53 Factory John Cooper Works - 70,000 miles.
My List:
Wheels and Tires
- I got some junkyard special 16" Voxx wheels a couple weeks ago. They clear the front JCW brakes, aren't terribly heavy, and look half decent. $25 a piece!
- Federal 595 RS-R Tires - I ran these on my NA Miata and loved them for the price.
Exhaust
- Borla aggressive but I'm still undecided because I don't know if it'll be loud enough for my taste.
Suspension
- Leaning towards either the Bilstein B12 setup or Koni Yellows with springs.
- Helix rear adjustable control arms
- Front camber plates - brand unspecified
- 19mm solid rear sway bar
- Front strut bar
- Poly front control arm bushings
- Modestly aggressive alignment, something that is street/auto-x recommended.
Engine
- Service Supercharger (Ordered Parts)
- Remove flap from JCW airbox ($0 cost)
- Detroit Tuned top engine mount (Ordered Parts)
- BSH lower engine mount (Ordered Parts)
- MSD Coil and wires
- DDM Works Intercooler Diverter
- 2% overdrive crank pulley
Aesthetics
- Aero Grill
- Yellow Hella 500 Fog Lights with grills (To replace factory MINI driving lights on car)
- Black out beltline
- Body Color Hatch Handle (Done)
- Stubby Antenna (Done)
- Black Mirror Caps (Done)
- Black Scuttles (Done)
- Smoked Scuttle Lenses (Done)
- Replace sagging headliner (Next up)
That's pretty much where I'm at right now. I've already done the clutch, and flushed and serviced all the engine fluids except the supercharger.
My unhappiness with the car resides mostly in the suspension and tires. It under-steers terribly and the run-flats are garbage. That's where I'm going to focus most of my money this spring.
Car: 2006 R53 Factory John Cooper Works - 70,000 miles.
My List:
Wheels and Tires
- I got some junkyard special 16" Voxx wheels a couple weeks ago. They clear the front JCW brakes, aren't terribly heavy, and look half decent. $25 a piece!
- Federal 595 RS-R Tires - I ran these on my NA Miata and loved them for the price.
Exhaust
- Borla aggressive but I'm still undecided because I don't know if it'll be loud enough for my taste.
Suspension
- Leaning towards either the Bilstein B12 setup or Koni Yellows with springs.
- Helix rear adjustable control arms
- Front camber plates - brand unspecified
- 19mm solid rear sway bar
- Front strut bar
- Poly front control arm bushings
- Modestly aggressive alignment, something that is street/auto-x recommended.
Engine
- Service Supercharger (Ordered Parts)
- Remove flap from JCW airbox ($0 cost)
- Detroit Tuned top engine mount (Ordered Parts)
- BSH lower engine mount (Ordered Parts)
- MSD Coil and wires
- DDM Works Intercooler Diverter
- 2% overdrive crank pulley
Aesthetics
- Aero Grill
- Yellow Hella 500 Fog Lights with grills (To replace factory MINI driving lights on car)
- Black out beltline
- Body Color Hatch Handle (Done)
- Stubby Antenna (Done)
- Black Mirror Caps (Done)
- Black Scuttles (Done)
- Smoked Scuttle Lenses (Done)
- Replace sagging headliner (Next up)
That's pretty much where I'm at right now. I've already done the clutch, and flushed and serviced all the engine fluids except the supercharger.
My unhappiness with the car resides mostly in the suspension and tires. It under-steers terribly and the run-flats are garbage. That's where I'm going to focus most of my money this spring.
#9
Other have already mentioned my suggestion, fix any overdue maintenance items and then start with the modding.
One suggestion I have is to keep an eye out for a JCW steering wheel as that's something you touch every time you get in the car and I'd upgrade your shiftknob for the same reason. Either the JCW/CF leather one for $70 or go with a Whalen.
One suggestion I have is to keep an eye out for a JCW steering wheel as that's something you touch every time you get in the car and I'd upgrade your shiftknob for the same reason. Either the JCW/CF leather one for $70 or go with a Whalen.
#10
yup def want one of those steering wheels! anybody selling?! i think a whalen is in the cards as well. I like the carbon JCW shifter, but i'll prob only get one if I find a set of carbon dash bits.
#11
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1970...70457104&rt=11
#13
Vendor
iTrader: (10)
I would get the car in hand first and see what maint items it needs and do that first. Then with the budget left decide on mods.
I would suggest an ATI Damper as it is a mod and maint item. Plus since you have a JCW doing the 2% larger will give you a little bump in power
https://www.waymotorworks.com/super-...ulley-r53.html
For suspension Our TSW springs with Koni shocks give great performance and still ride good without dropping it on the ground
https://www.waymotorworks.com/wmw-su...n-package.html
Then there are our mild cam for more power
https://www.waymotorworks.com/way-mi...t-r52-r53.html
Control arm bushings as they wear out every 40k normally, these will not wear out again
https://www.waymotorworks.com/powerf...shing-kit.html
I would suggest an ATI Damper as it is a mod and maint item. Plus since you have a JCW doing the 2% larger will give you a little bump in power
https://www.waymotorworks.com/super-...ulley-r53.html
For suspension Our TSW springs with Koni shocks give great performance and still ride good without dropping it on the ground
https://www.waymotorworks.com/wmw-su...n-package.html
Then there are our mild cam for more power
https://www.waymotorworks.com/way-mi...t-r52-r53.html
Control arm bushings as they wear out every 40k normally, these will not wear out again
https://www.waymotorworks.com/powerf...shing-kit.html
#14
IMO maintenance first, remember the rubber components are pushing over 11 years; change all fluids, belt, belt tensioner, crank sensor o-ring, passenger side motor mount, dog bone lower mount, the larger power steering hose from the reservoir and think about both the water pump and the crank pulley.
On the mods, rear sway bar is the cheapest bang for the buck and then tires. If the crank pulley is bad, Way has a 2% overdrive that will give you some more boost. Detroit Tuned's BPV will also get you some more boost. Then, if you really want to know what a MINI JCW should be, put in a cam, some 450 injectors and get a tune.
The biggest question is whether you turn you own wrench or not.
On the mods, rear sway bar is the cheapest bang for the buck and then tires. If the crank pulley is bad, Way has a 2% overdrive that will give you some more boost. Detroit Tuned's BPV will also get you some more boost. Then, if you really want to know what a MINI JCW should be, put in a cam, some 450 injectors and get a tune.
The biggest question is whether you turn you own wrench or not.
#15
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