Originally Posted by themitch22
(Post 3621324)
Did you mount the projectors onto the halogen reflectors? I just cut a hole in the reflector and used silicon RTV to glue the Morimoto mini H1's directly to the reflectors, no way to rotate adjust it but I can use the x and y adjusters.
I too attached the projector to the reflector bowl. I did so without it touching anything else so I can just use the stock adjustment screws on the outside of the headlight housing to adjust the aim. It worked flawlessly. |
Those lights look amazing calforhelp. I went to a shop in Alhambra and they quoted me almost $700.00 for morimoto projector convertion kit/hid incl installation. Awesome job on your lights.
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hey, nice one you got there.
Do you have any problem like weird flickering whenever you startup the engine? I have this problem with 2012 Countryman. Does retrofitting from H13 stock halogen to D2S solve this problem? Thanks before hand man! |
Originally Posted by Sok Sombath
(Post 4000989)
Do you have any problem like weird flickering whenever you startup the engine?
I was getting a bulb out warning and the HIDs were flickering without being able to turn them on. This was with using a regular CAN-BUS harness from TheRetrofitSource. Matt over there had a harness custom made for me that takes power from the battery instead of the stock wiring. The harness included a capacitor to level out the flickering, and a load resistor to prevent a bulb warning on the low beams. The harness was $50 and works perfectly, I still use the OEM headlight switch to turn them on so it essentially works as stock. Call TRS and ask for Matt. Tell him that you need the same custom harness that he made for a 2011 MINI Cooper S back in May '12. It was for order number 18817. It was a custom H13 harness made with a capacitor to level out the flickering. |
Originally Posted by calforhelp
(Post 4001057)
Yep, I had a problem just like this. It was solved by a custom wiring harness.
I was getting a bulb out warning and the HIDs were flickering without being able to turn them on. This was with using a regular CAN-BUS harness from TheRetrofitSource. Matt over there had a harness custom made for me that takes power from the battery instead of the stock wiring. The harness included a capacitor to level out the flickering, and a load resistor to prevent a bulb warning on the low beams. The harness was $50 and works perfectly, I still use the OEM headlight switch to turn them on so it essentially works as stock. Call TRS and ask for Matt. Tell him that you need the same custom harness that he made for a 2011 MINI Cooper S back in May '12. It was for order number 18817. It was a custom H13 harness made with a capacitor to level out the flickering. |
Originally Posted by s0n1c
(Post 4002639)
Do your high beams and flash-to-pass work? I have warning cancellers I used for the low beam, but had to leave them off the hi-beams because they wouldn't work if I connected them. So my lows and highs work (just a cut-off removal), but my car whines that my high beams are not working for both lights each time I start the car.
It sounds like you just need your car coded to disable the bulb checks. If you're in the Los Angeles area, I provide this service for $20. If you're elsewhere search the forum for "NCS Expert Directory" to find a member near you! |
I am planning to do something similar to my 2013 MCS. Can you give me the diameter of the turn signal hole? I want to see if the part that I want will fit into it. I want to have an RGBW demon eye inside the dual projector that I can utilize as a turn signal.
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